M Series used to sell buckets of take off bolts as they won't reuse the hardware. Good for judged restoration projects. Probably not for critical fasteners. You could give them a call.

I jack up the front end. Spin the tire while spray painting a light mist of paint on each tire. I place a block with a nail sticking out and spin the tire scribing a line in the paint. I then measure front and back side of tire. Subtract the difference and adjust to spec. 5¢ worth of tooling.

It would really help if you posted pictures of the frame and the top to see what, if anything, is wrong.

Everyone good is gone. Even the best shops in Phoenix are now gone or a few generations down and the quality is getting low.

You can. But the work is easier on a work table than in frame. You need to remove head, manifolds, valves, tappets, front cover (w/ motor mount) timing assembly to pull the cam.

Sounds like the valve stems are gummed up then. What valves are stuck? Intake, exhaust or both? The spray for cleaning direct injection ports might help dissolve any deposits. But you will need to remove the manifolds to do it. And maybe the head if they are that bad. (And the can of worms called &q...

You can try to squirt them and the tappets by removing the tappet covers from under the manifolds for access.
You can hope there isn't damage to the tappet bores, tappets and valve guides from the valves sticking.

Get out your tools and do a basic diagnostic.
Start with a compression test.
Then power to ignition.
Fuel pump flow test.
That will point you in the right direction to repair.
Guessing over the Internet is a waste of everyone's time.

I did add a voltmeter and ammeter under the dash for the 12v.

One of my trucks is 12v converted. I used a brand new (not NOS) stock wiring harness from VWofM. I've used the stock instruments and senders by installing a 12v to 24v 30A (overkill, but makes it run cool) boost converter in series with the spider. Battery, generator, regulator, starter wiring has a...

You are opening a can of worms that is really impossible to answer easily over the Internet. The short answer is run it ALL either 12v or 24v. Center tapping batteries to get 12v on a 24v system will damage batteries. There is a file floating around the internet on how to convert an M37 to dual volt...

The rubber isolation mounts I used had a bush that I removed. I didn't replace it as the shoulder bolt served its purpose of not crushing the mount. They were something I got from McMaster or Motion that were the same dimensions as the original rubber.

I remove the metal bushing, squirt a little tire mounting rubber lube on them and install them with a plier. Reinsert the metal bushing.

You may be close. Every page of the Autolite manual is marked Secret.

This is old news. The original intent, as I recall, was because MV's don't meet Federal Safety Standards. (Bumpers, lights, seatbelts, etc, etc ) People were (oh my god) driving scary hummers and 5 tons. So they passed a law to ban military vehicles. And completely ignored the fact that MOST of them...