Since everything I try to remove for service is frozen solid and I break more bolts than I remove, I have become rather good at removing the remnants. I use the usual Kroil ahead of time and let the stuff soak, Use heat and all the normal things when working on old iron. But still, I break a lot of ...

I have found those new senders to be 'problematic' and not worth the cost.

Put in a garbage bag and then in a box a set of golf clubs came in has worked in the past for me.

I could sure use the steering box if you could somehow ship it to Arizona.

Silicon is not allowed on my property. That stuff has no place in an automotive application. Save it for the bathtub. (I've has too many troubles and too few successes with that stuff over the decades.) I'm a Hylomar convert. (That stuff kept my Harley shovelhead tight and dry!) Easy to use, easy to...

Went to a car show last Fri eve. All of the do not touch signs on all the cars. Everybody there that wanted, got their picture leaning on, sitting in or hanging off of my M-37, Lukes GPW and my brothers M-38. The 3 crusty old MVs got a lot more attention than many of the 'no touch' cars.

Your reservoir is probably overfilled, too. When you hit the pedal, it is normal for fluid to squirt from the hole in the MC bore until the piston covers the opening. This is where fluid pressure gets relieved when you release the brakes. If you are too full, it will carry up into the cap and leak o...

My right fender had all the cutouts and holes and the running board is moved back, not cut. The holes are patched since the heater is gone. There are pics on the m37 facebook page. I can't upload pics here. (Phpbb and Android don't work together)

Sounds like master cylinder issue. If the pushrod is adjusted too lkng or the orifice in the MC is plugged, the fluid can't return to the reservoir and the brakes won't release.

That is where I got messed up! Starting to gather everything to do the brakes on my truck next.

I always only see two part numbers for the wheel cylinders, ut my manual calls for 4. Fronts and rears, lefts and rights. Specs are are different bores front and rear.

And another rebuilder is in Phoenix, Az.

When I got my truck it had been converted to 12 V theoretically saving me the hassle of doing it myself. However, not having correct looking and lit by the red lamp gauges was driving me nuts. So I came up with a solution. It will help anyone going to 12 from 24 as it saves having to change gauges a...

Motor will be trash. Sitting years with the oil system open to the elements. Last couple years, we has some bloody serious dust storms. But, it could still be a good donor truck. Have to go look tomorrow.

Because I'm not doing a restoration and as little as possible is being touched to avoid the "while I'm in there" syndrome and attendant wallet emptying, I just slipped heatshrink over them while in place and shrank it with the heat gun.