Home What should I check, right off the bat, so I don't blow something up driving it home (10 miles from dropoff point)?
New M37 owner - advice wanted
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New M37 owner - advice wanted
Or will be soon. Buying it over the net, and getting it shipped home. According to the seller, it runs, but has been parked in the garage for several years.
What should I check, right off the bat, so I don't blow something up driving it home (10 miles from dropoff point)?
What should I check, right off the bat, so I don't blow something up driving it home (10 miles from dropoff point)?
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W_A_Watson_II
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Master Yota
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Look for critters living under the hood - fire from burining critter nests' are no fun.
Check the oil level
Have a quick look under the dash at the wiring to see if any of the dryrotted insulation will cause a fire or a short.
Check the fluid in the rad.
Ask the seller why it hasn't been driven.
Change the fuel filter.
Check the batteries
Check the tires for dry rot
Check the brake fluid level and pump the brake pedal.
A visual inspection of the steering and drive shafts would also be a good idea.
Congrats on your "soon to be" purchase.
Check the oil level
Have a quick look under the dash at the wiring to see if any of the dryrotted insulation will cause a fire or a short.
Check the fluid in the rad.
Ask the seller why it hasn't been driven.
Change the fuel filter.
Check the batteries
Check the tires for dry rot
Check the brake fluid level and pump the brake pedal.
A visual inspection of the steering and drive shafts would also be a good idea.
Congrats on your "soon to be" purchase.
Ray
1953 CDN. M37
1954 CDN. M152
1953 CDN. M37
1954 CDN. M152
Welcome Mark@Sea
Will and Master Yota didn't leave anything out. I know you can hardly wait for it's arrival? 
Bruce,
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
You should also verify gear oil levels in the transfer, tranny, both axles.
Check the entire truck for anything that looks like it was left loose
Really try those brakes. Climb in and press down hard on the pedal and make sure it doesn't slowly leak down. Hold that pressure for a minute or so. Then climb out and check for any brake fluid leaks. Make sure that hand brake holds the truck still.
When folks leave these vehicles parked for a few years we often forget what we took loose while putzing with something 2 years ago. Could be a gas line fitting left loose for troubleshooting, distributor left loose after checking timing, spark plugs or their leads left loose after compression checks, air cleaner left loose from last start attempt. Tail light lens not screwed back on after checking a lamp. Gear box filler plugs left out. Drain plugs loose. and the list is endless.
A lot can fall off, and leak out on a ten mile trip in a strange truck.
Check the entire truck for anything that looks like it was left loose
Really try those brakes. Climb in and press down hard on the pedal and make sure it doesn't slowly leak down. Hold that pressure for a minute or so. Then climb out and check for any brake fluid leaks. Make sure that hand brake holds the truck still.
When folks leave these vehicles parked for a few years we often forget what we took loose while putzing with something 2 years ago. Could be a gas line fitting left loose for troubleshooting, distributor left loose after checking timing, spark plugs or their leads left loose after compression checks, air cleaner left loose from last start attempt. Tail light lens not screwed back on after checking a lamp. Gear box filler plugs left out. Drain plugs loose. and the list is endless.
A lot can fall off, and leak out on a ten mile trip in a strange truck.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
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Master Yota
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mikkelborg
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I agree that towing is probably the wisest way to go, saying that, if a vehicle runs, I tend to drive it home when it is safe to do so. If you tow it, make sure you have a trailer and truck that are up to the job. Most rental trailers are not heavy enough, an M37 is about 5,800 lbs. I towed mine home on an equipment trailer rated at 10,000lbs. Gross weight with my ford pick up as the tow vehicle was about 16,000 lbs. I played it really safe though, I had to drive 300 miles instead of 10 to get my truck home.
If you do drive it home the tools you will need to do the pre-run checks are
A 1/2-socket driver for all of the drain and fill plugs on the axles, transfer case, transmission and the master cylinder. An extension is required for the master cylinder as well, a short one should be fine.
The largest blade screwdriver you have and a pair of vice-grips, you will need this combo to get the inspection hatch out of the drivers side floor right over the master, and if you need to take one of the brakes apart you will need the screwdriver for the drum retaining screws. Grease is good to have on hand for all of these fasteners, the ones on my truck were stuck pretty badly (although mine was stored outdoors and does not look as nice).
A grease gun and a full tube of grease to hit all of the zirc fittings you can find, there are a lot of them, also check every u-joint and pivot point while you are at it, it is a bit time consuming but it is a good way to familiarize yourself with your driveline before the trip home. The first time I greased and inspected everything in my truck I found most of the stuff was bone dry, took me about an hour to find and clean each zirc and then pump in the grease. If you have a lubrication chart it will speed up the process a lot.
Bring the right sized lug wrench, standard 'one size fits all models' are too small. I can't remember what size the lugs are off of the top of my head. The lugs on one side are reverse threaded. A tire pressure gauge and compressor are a good idea unless the previous owner has already taken care of those details.
A good ABC fire extinguisher is a great thing to have and is all too often forgotten, I keep one in each of my projects, it's especially important if you have sketchy looking wiring or rotten fuel lines.
Other than that the crescent wrench, hammer, WD40, bailing wire and duct tape should get you home safely.
If you can, it always helps to read the manual; this site has a list of technical manuals for the M37. The most useful ones are probably going to be TM 9-2320-212-10 and TM 9-8031-5 which are the ‘operators manual’ and the ‘power train, body and frame’ manual respectively. I think both are available online somewhere.
I hope this helps,
Collin
*self proclaimed king of longwinded responses and somewhat ex-noob*
If you do drive it home the tools you will need to do the pre-run checks are
A 1/2-socket driver for all of the drain and fill plugs on the axles, transfer case, transmission and the master cylinder. An extension is required for the master cylinder as well, a short one should be fine.
The largest blade screwdriver you have and a pair of vice-grips, you will need this combo to get the inspection hatch out of the drivers side floor right over the master, and if you need to take one of the brakes apart you will need the screwdriver for the drum retaining screws. Grease is good to have on hand for all of these fasteners, the ones on my truck were stuck pretty badly (although mine was stored outdoors and does not look as nice).
A grease gun and a full tube of grease to hit all of the zirc fittings you can find, there are a lot of them, also check every u-joint and pivot point while you are at it, it is a bit time consuming but it is a good way to familiarize yourself with your driveline before the trip home. The first time I greased and inspected everything in my truck I found most of the stuff was bone dry, took me about an hour to find and clean each zirc and then pump in the grease. If you have a lubrication chart it will speed up the process a lot.
Bring the right sized lug wrench, standard 'one size fits all models' are too small. I can't remember what size the lugs are off of the top of my head. The lugs on one side are reverse threaded. A tire pressure gauge and compressor are a good idea unless the previous owner has already taken care of those details.
A good ABC fire extinguisher is a great thing to have and is all too often forgotten, I keep one in each of my projects, it's especially important if you have sketchy looking wiring or rotten fuel lines.
Other than that the crescent wrench, hammer, WD40, bailing wire and duct tape should get you home safely.
If you can, it always helps to read the manual; this site has a list of technical manuals for the M37. The most useful ones are probably going to be TM 9-2320-212-10 and TM 9-8031-5 which are the ‘operators manual’ and the ‘power train, body and frame’ manual respectively. I think both are available online somewhere.
I hope this helps,
Collin
*self proclaimed king of longwinded responses and somewhat ex-noob*
Collin, thanks - exactly what I needed.
I'll go through the manual links here - prev. owner is including a set of manuals with the truck, by the way - and see if I can find the lubrication chart. That should show me location and whats' required in the way of grease, oil, etc.
Gonna be a fun day in Kingsport!
I'll go through the manual links here - prev. owner is including a set of manuals with the truck, by the way - and see if I can find the lubrication chart. That should show me location and whats' required in the way of grease, oil, etc.
Gonna be a fun day in Kingsport!
I vote for tow it home, but if not ask the seller if it has good batteries and be prepaired to install some good new ones (doesn't have to be new new just new to the truck and in good condition). Remember these trucks are 24 Volts and use 2 (two) 12V batteries wired in serries. (unless someone converted it to 12v along the way) Check with the sell on this.
If you are going to drive it plan on 2 things. 1. A few hours to change batteries if needed, checking the fuel and plugs etc. and 2. have a chaise vehicle to follow you if break down or don't have any running lights etc.
Which brings up something else to check if you have working brake lights, and running lights. Check out the operators manual so you become familiar with the military light switch and how it functions.
This is why I vote for towing...Get it home and then you can take your time and check everything and fix it to right before your first drive.
If you are going to drive it plan on 2 things. 1. A few hours to change batteries if needed, checking the fuel and plugs etc. and 2. have a chaise vehicle to follow you if break down or don't have any running lights etc.
Which brings up something else to check if you have working brake lights, and running lights. Check out the operators manual so you become familiar with the military light switch and how it functions.
This is why I vote for towing...Get it home and then you can take your time and check everything and fix it to right before your first drive.
M37s are HMMWV in my world!
Seller says it has 2 new batteries, he's checked everything and it will be ready to go... I'm the trusting sort, so I believe him. I'm still planning on checking, of course.
The fun part now is finding a reliable shipping company who is actually willing to guarantee pickup/dropoff dates (within a 3 day window, anyway).
Off topic, but with this one coming home, my Plymouth will have to go to make room in the garage. Anyone interested in a '36 P2?
The fun part now is finding a reliable shipping company who is actually willing to guarantee pickup/dropoff dates (within a 3 day window, anyway).
Off topic, but with this one coming home, my Plymouth will have to go to make room in the garage. Anyone interested in a '36 P2?
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Master Yota
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