starter removal

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:33 am

Apologies in advance if I already asked this question (I DID search beforehand!). My starter has always been very sluggish, sometimes a minute or so would pass after stepping on the switch before the engine turned over (my batteries are good BTW). I thought it might be a dirty commutator or varnished brushes. Now it won't turn over at all and I want to pull the starter to inspect and service it.
Is this a difficult and time consuming task based on your experiences? Thanks.

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:32 pm

Pulling the starter is easy-be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable first or you'll have a new way to "fire it up"!
Gary

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:36 pm

Ha Ha! Thanks, I looked over the manual and saw that disconnecting the negative was the FIRST step. I hope I just have to clean the commutator and pop in new brushes for it to work again. I suppose the problem could also be the switch....

HingsingM37 · Post by **HingsingM37** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:32 am

A minute or so? That is most odd. Then it would just radomly crank? Let us know what you find. I'm curious.

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:46 am

HingsingM37 wrote:A minute or so? That is most odd. Then it would just radomly crank? Let us know what you find. I'm curious.

no, it would then crank normally, albeit slowly, but eventually catch and fire up. Now it doesn't crank at all. I'll be sure to post my findings. Thanks.

Carter · Post by **Carter** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:08 am

You might need to get a starter wrench unless you already have one, the top starter mount nut is hard to get off without it.
The manual also states to unscrew the oil level gage pipe (dip stick) from the block and remove it and the gage to provide clearance when taking the starter out.

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:18 am

Carter wrote:You might need to get a starter wrench unless you already have one, the top starter mount nut is hard to get off without it.
The manual also states to unscrew the oil level gage pipe (dip stick) from the block and remove it and the gage to provide clearance when taking the starter out.

thanks for the tip about the wrench. I don't have one, what size?

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:31 am

I removed my starter when I replaced the starter switch. That was before I realized I could probably have replaced the switch without having to remove the starter at all. Well my problems started when I realized I couldn't remove the starter without removing the pressed in dipstick tube. You see my engine being an industrial 230, haa a pressed in tube. So, I had to remove the oil pan and drive out the tube then remove the starter, perform the two minute switch swapout, then reverse the procedure. What a hassle. Wound up cracking the dipstick tube because when I removed the starter the first time, I banged it into the tube from not knowing the starter wouldn't clear.

If you have the military screwed in dipstick tube this shouldn't be a problem.

If I were you I'd first try to swap out the starter switch, maybe that's the problem and not the motor.....

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:34 am

Nickathome wrote: If I were you I'd first try to swap out the starter switch, maybe that's the problem and not the motor.....

That's not a bad idea, I'll start sourcing new switches. Thanks!

Carter · Post by **Carter** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:16 am

The wrench I have is 9/16ths and 5/8ths and my GUESS is that it is most likely the contacts in the switch that are causing the problem and you might not have to remove the entire starter. They carry a lot of amps and sometimes burn out before the brushes and windings in the motor go bad.

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:27 am

Carter wrote:The wrench I have is 9/16ths and 5/8ths and my GUESS is that it is most likely the contacts in the switch that are causing the problem and you might not have to remove the entire starter. They carry a lot of amps and sometimes burn out before the brushes and windings in the motor go bad.

that would save me a lot of time if it was just the switch! I will definitely check it out first and maybe just install a new one. Do you have a preferred source? I was going to check w/John at Midwest first. Thanks for the wrench info too...

Carter · Post by **Carter** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 7:25 am

I never had to buy a new switch, always had a good supply of M stuff on hand that I was given years ago when the NG maintenance unit I was a member of turned in all their issue trucks and then gave me all the parts they had on hand. I am sure John has some switches as well as all the other guys you hear about on this forum like Sid Beck, g741@ccwip.net Keep in mind there were 2 different switches used on those starters so be sure what you order is the same as what's on it now.

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 7:39 am

Carter wrote:I never had to buy a new switch, always had a good supply of M stuff on hand that I was given years ago when the NG maintenance unit I was a member of turned in all their issue trucks and then gave me all the parts they had on hand. I am sure John has some switches as well as all the other guys you hear about on this forum like Sid Beck, g741@ccwip.net Keep in mind there were 2 different switches used on those starters so be sure what you order is the same as what's on it now.

looks like he does have some, just checking on the style (I have an earlier truck). If the switch is at all serviceable, perhaps it just needs some attention....

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:28 am

saw on page 251 of TM 8030 that early model trucks can experience a mis-alignment of the starter pedal plunger and the starter shifting yoke. I'll check that out too

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