Isaac, what are those intake and exhaust manifolds? Are they custom or an off the shelf item?
And what is the red hose/line connected to the intake manifold for? I also see another hose connection point to the right of the carb?

After twisting off a few rusty lug nuts trying to remove rims for seasonal tire changes, I started greasing my threads. Then one day I had new tires mounted up at Tire Rack and they twisted off the first few studs that they tried to torque to the 83 foot pounds that Toyota spec'ed. The grease (water...

ZG, On those copper/nickel lines........how do you prep them for paint? Does paint adhere well........or does it flake off? I've had problems painting copper coated parts in the past, so just wondering if you need to do anything special to them first. thanks, bob Bob, I have not used them. I have o...

Rust.... the eternal enemy of steel is my concern. I'll get back to you guys in 20+ years when one of my rubber lines fails. :D JB Check out the copper/nickel lines in my link above. No rust. Easier bending and better flaring. Read about their uses on the website. It sound like they supply OEM for ...

Any update on the problem?

Whenever I redo my brake and fuel lines, this is the product I will most likely use. http://store.fedhillusa.com/5168mmdirectory.aspx. This is their fuel line. Most of their stuff is brake line related

Bob, your numbers mirror my reproduction Newstar coil readings.

New coil, cap and rotor are in. Distributor plopped right in and the plug wires were an easy hook up. I bought a 3/4" socket and an extension and welded them together to make a spark plug wrench. I think this is the first time the wires on the Distributor have been snug! Truck fired right up an...

Stovebolt, did you do the work with the distributor on the block? I was going to replace my coil only, and I was having a bear of a time removing the six cover screws. I pulled the unit, and it was pretty easy working on the bench. There is an adaptor which allows you to use a timing light if you ar...

I have all the right fittings and vent lines. It seems like a pretty good passive system, with no moving parts. I have to wonder how much air goes through those lines though. Inside the distributor, the fittings have pretty small orifices. I would think a small electric air pump would do a much bett...

Good points Bob. I compared the new and old coils, and the distance below the mounting screw plate seems identical on the Made in USA coils and the Taiwanese coils. I'm not going to worry about the heat sink issue.

Isaac, , I'm not sure if the coil bottomed out. I will check and see how the other new coil compares to the old coils to see if it should be in contact. An aluminum disc would probably be a suitable heat sink also I would think. How snug is the cap supposed to be screwed to the distributor body? Tha...

My reproduction coils showed up yesterday. They are a Newstar product. They both read 11.5 ohms on the primary, and 11.19 Kilo-ohms on the secondary. I have a hard time believing they are both bad, but those readings are way off of what the made in USA coils are supposed to read. I have one in the d...

Thanks for the replies. I have all the correct vent lines in place, along with the correct fittings in the carb intake. I don't think venting was my issue. I have a new cap and rotor in it now, and I hope to put the distributor back on tomorrow

I recently had a loss of spark, and my coil had a low secondary reading. Then I noticed that the carbon button in the distributor was worn flush with the brass which surrounds it. Is there any correlation/causation with worn distributor caps and stress on the coil? I'm replacing the coil, cap and ro...