I recently had a loss of spark, and my coil had a low secondary reading. Then I noticed that the carbon button in the distributor was worn flush with the brass which surrounds it. Is there any correlation/causation with worn distributor caps and stress on the coil? I'm replacing the coil, cap and rotor, and I have a Pertronics Ignitor ignition.
I've had this truck seven years, but only six on the rebuilt distributor. I probably do less than 500 miles a year. What type of milage should you get out of a new cap and rotor? Its been 30 years since I had to deal with a distributor and rotor, and that was in high school, and I didn't work on my beater car that much back then.
All the distributor vent lines and fittings are correct.
Thanks
John
Bad distributor?
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Re: Bad distributor?
I've gotten around 10k miles on my dist. cap. Unknown >10k miles on the coil. Gave up on the points about 5k miles ago. They just would not stop burning. Installed the Pertronics deal and love it. I'm a big fan of the Pertronics systems. Used them in boats, cars etc.
-jim lee
-jim lee
Carryall WC53 Blog : https://www.eskimo.com/~jimlee/Home/Car ... _Blog.html
Re: Bad distributor?
Bad condenser will kill points. Bad button will kill rotors. The only issue that could cause is an increase in the temperature inside the distributor. That will be hard on the coils.
"It may be ugly, but at least it is slow!"
Re: Bad distributor?
Forgot. If you don't have the cooling lines working correctly (To the intake) the coil will cook as well.
-jim lee
-jim lee
Carryall WC53 Blog : https://www.eskimo.com/~jimlee/Home/Car ... _Blog.html
Re: Bad distributor?
Thanks for the replies. I have all the correct vent lines in place, along with the correct fittings in the carb intake. I don't think venting was my issue. I have a new cap and rotor in it now, and I hope to put the distributor back on tomorrow