installing an Accusump

[NAM VET]

while munching on my lunch earlier today, I posted a lengthy discussion about my experience in my prior Superformance Cobra, and how to use one in my truck. And where to hook it up to the engine. But while it was accepted as a post, it has never showed up on any of the forums. So, here is a very condensed version of my inquiry.

What do you all think of using this port, Just below the oil bayonet. Probably an NPT.

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[Elwood]

Not sure which port that you're referring to.

The large square head is the oil pressure relief valve - probably not a good place to tap.

The small hex head plug above the return for the oil filter would be better. Either of the two hex head plugs in the oil gallery that runs along that side of the block would work. The plugs cover the holes where the block is cross-drilled for the oil feed passages into the main bearings, so any of them will work to feed your luber (there are of course four holes, but two are already in use - one for the oil filter feed, the other for the oil pressure sending unit). The plugs are 1/8-NPT thread.

What size reservoir are you going to install? Valve or no valve? If valve, manual, remote, or auto (not sure if the electric valve will work with 24v)?

That's a very early block casting.

[NAM VET]

Jeeze, how could I be so stupid as to forget the oil pressure relief valve. On my Cobra, I had a Canton-Mecca Accusump, two quarts, with an electric valve. At engine shut down, rev the motor, to fill the A'sump, then turn the valve off. At start, pre-lube, then fire the motor. But you have to remember where those two quarts of oil are when you pull your dipstick to check the oil level, because leaving the valve open will put the A'sump's oil into the motor's sump. If you habitually leave it always open, and the dipstick reads full, when the motor is running, you will be several quarts low when driving. I also had a 20 psi low oil pressure warning light on my dash. The A'sump is the blue cylinder on the front crossmember, plumbed into a port on the remote oil filter mount. The filter mount is off of Ernie Elliot's NASCAR motor, the Wix filter holds two quarts of oil! I got pretty good at making SS hoses. I had to get some of my silicone water lines out of England 15 years ago. My fuel pressure comes off the back of the carb fuel log. Just under 500 stout ponies in that motor.

For my truck's motor, the tiny inlet you note is better than no inlet. I will put the A'sump over the tran's hump under the passenger seat, with a manual valve where I can reach it. Did some painting and sanding today on some of the front sheet metal.

and all the best.... NV

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[Elwood]

I'm planning on going with the two-quart Accusump, as well. The one-quart reservoir doesn't seem like enough, considering the sump capacity of the flathead. And three quarts seems like too much - if the entire reservoir can should empty into the sump while trying to start the engine, I don't think I'd want an extra three quarts of oil competing with the spinning crank for space in the oil pan.

I'm interested to see how you arrange the valve and reservoir. My plan was to mount everything in the engine compartment, and use one of the manual cable remote valves. First, I'd like to keep the connecting line between the reservoir and the oil gallery in the engine block as short as possible, and second, I'd prefer not to bring engine oil under pressure into the cab. These trucks vibrate and twist a fair amount (thus the cab is flexibly mounted to the frame), and a long oil supply line like that is more likely to have a failure. If that line opens up, the engine oil volume and pressure will be gone in no time. Even with mounting the reservoir in the engine compartment next to the block, a flexible hose (like the ones used to feed and return the oil filter) will be needed to allow for engine movement in the mounts.

Yeah, I too am concerned about the small port into the oil gallery. But I figured that experience with watching the oil pressure after the reservoir valve is opened will tell me how long to wait before engaging the starter.

[NAM VET]

I will likely use AN 6 hose for the oil line, since no need for a larger line to such a small inlet. It would be nice to put it in the engine compartment, but since my motor is not now in the chassis, I can't study where to put it. I liked my remote electric valve, but my truck is going to be all 24 volt, and the available remote electric valve is 12 volt. I removed the small converter yesterday, and pulled out the wires to the bed 12 volt lights. I studied the converter, and for the life of me can't figure out how it worked the way it is connected. Small AN SS lines are quite flexible, and there are all sorts of angle connectors and firewall pass-thru's so I am pretty sure abrasion and vibration risks, if done with care, are minimal. I think they are quite reliable; I had mine in my Snake for many thousands of miles, with nary a problem. They do have a pressure valve on the end of the canister, some folks say they can blow out. But that can be plugged so no one steps on it in the compartment. And paint it OD. Check out Pegasus Racing and Canton-Mecca for more information. I had some pictures of my Cobra in the later's catalogue years ago. And two quarts is more than enough. Let me see if I can locate a picture or two of my Cobra's installation.

Lets work on this together.

NV

[NAM VET]

OK, here is a picture of the switch in my Cobra's "office." Note the switch mounted just under the dash, next to an MSD shift lite. Shelby's have full instrumentation, but I added a second oil temp gage, so I could monitor my oil temps out of the motor and then back from the Setrab oil cooler. In the winter, I switched out my AN 12 oil lines from the filter, to bypass the cooler, as otherwise my oil temps would not get warm enough. I put in a 20 psi low oil pressure warning light on a small tab on the top of the dash, where it was visible in my peripheral vision. I also added a fuel temp gage down low, as I had constant problems with my carb percolating in the summer when all gas began to have Ethanol. I watched my fuel pressure when cranking and at highway speed to see if I was about to stall. I almost had to use a checklist to enter, belt up, turn on my hidden anti-theft switch to the starter under the dash, then pre-oil the motor, and then lift up the aircraft switch cover, and lift the toggle, and only then would I start the motor. The AN tube and nozzle aimed at me on the tunnel, just in front of the shift lever was my anti-fire system. I had two lines, the Halon tank in the trunk, one line to the the engine compartment, the other aimed at the driver, and added an aircraft switch there too, so I could direct the Halon to the driver, the default, or just to the engine. Note the odo at 37 K miles, I had pulled out and have saved the original speedo with 99K miles, so this is another 37 K miles on my Snake. A formidable car on the street and the track, my son had a lot of professional instruction by a Le Mans winner and the head Michelin test driver, and he got to be really fast. Here is me just after a track run. I had three sets of knock-offs, the rears were 12 in rims. Side pipes were LOUD, so I wore ear plugs when driving it. Put in three different Tremec's, and three different rear diffs, to get just the right gearing for high speed tracks like VIR.

As you can tell, I just loved that car, having wanted a Cobra since I first saw them back in High School. I had this one for a decade.

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Very diminutive sports car.

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[Elwood]

Nice Cobra. A friend has had one for more than ten years, but he's never offered to let me drive it. Of course, I never offered to let him drive the M37, either. He might fall asleep waiting for it to reach 50 mph.

I was reading the Accusump installation instructions, and they recommend a minimum inlet size of 3/8-NPT. This could be a problem.

I'll have to measure the ID of the drilled oil passage down the long axis of the block, but I'd be surprised if it's 3/8". Regardless of the Accusump instructions, there's no need to run a large hose to the engine block if the oil gallery is a restriction.

If the gallery is bigger than 1/8", which is likely, perhaps the opening for the No. 3 bearing cross passage can be drilled and tapped for a 1/4-NPT fitting. It could be a tight fit to get the starter in and out, so the use of an elbow and some creative plumbing at the port might be needed.