Front spindle bearing force

[m15256]

Took the front end apart quite awhile ago. Slowly putting parts back. Had to replace the spindles with NOS from MWM as the contact surfaces for the hub oil seals were more corroded than I felt comfortable with. I know that the manual says install the drum and hub as one unit on the spindle but I've always done the hub first and then the drum. I've had bearings that I've had to push on pretty hard to get them on but never like this. They are the bearings that I took off and seem fine. Bearing journal diameter (inner) on NOS spindle measures exactly 2.250" with a decent micrometer. I don't think I could get the bearings on the spindle with a hammer. The outer bearing slides onto the old spindle as it should but I can't even start it on the new one.
Just how much force should I expect to use? and can you "polish" the journals without ruining them? This is only on the left side. Right side went together fine. Anybody else had a similar problem.
Thanks, Rick

[Kaegi]

maybe exchange it for a different one? or have it machined. would probably take a week to polish it down enough.

[HingsingM37]

Rick,
Your old bearing cone is a 28682?

[MSeriesRebuild]

Compare the OD of the old spindle with the OD of the new one. Check with your bearing supplier for the correct ID of the bearing cone also, it must be slightly larger ID than the spindle OD. It should be a slip fit with no tapping necessary to install it. If you find the new spindle is not the same size over the complete inner cone support area where the inner bearing rides; likely you have a spindle that is not NOS, but instead one that has had a bearing seizure take place on it at some point. This condition can be easily hidden by bead blasting the spindle so it can be sold to an unsuspecting buyer. UNDERSTAND NOW, I'm not saying John at MWM would willingly sell you a piece like that, a person down the line who sold it to him could have done that. Surplus parts sometimes go through numerous hands before being sold to an end user. Unless you check it closely, you would not notice it at all. I've seen that done numerous times, and there are vendors out there who will do that to you and sleep well tonight. What happens when a bearing seizes; the heat generated from that seizure causes the bearing surface of the spindle to swell slightly. The old bearing cone can be removed with the aid of a bearing splitter and puller or press, but a new one will not slide on by hand easily as it should. If you find that spindle bearing surface has varying diameters or is out of round, what I've described is about the only scenario that would cause that.

[m15256]

Well the bearing is stamped BOWER 28682. m37jarhead sent me a gentle reminder to talk to John about the spindle. He`s right of course. I've always found John at MWM to be an honest fellow and wouldn't hesitate to recommend him ever. I only mentioned the source for the spindles because it was part of the background to the problem. So I sent him an email just now and though it's late-ish at night he immediately fired back a response to send the weird one back to be replaced. MWM is a great resource for all of us. Too bad there are other less ummm... reputable outfits.
Rick

[HingsingM37]

Well if the bearing is correct, it sounds as if it is the scenario Charles described. Keep us posted.

[m15256]

John Bizal sent a replacement spindle quite rapidly but I have just recently found time to get back to the front end. The whole assembly went together slick as can be. So I guess the former NOS one was just an odd bad one. Got the drum on and bled out the new cylinders all around. Replaced all the drum retaining screws with socket head stainless while I was there. Well actually I replaced about everything in the axle, seal, bushing, bearing, shoe, cylinder, drum, brake line, tie rod, drag link department. Those slotted flat head screws are a pain. Finally have all new functioning brakes and steering. Only took four years!
Thanks very much again to MWM.