Hi everyone. I just traded my Jeep for a 1964 Dodge M43 Ambulance. Runs great (needs exhaust manifold). I got it as a dirtbike/camping rig, but DANG - this thing is a handful on the highway. It holds 55 just fine, but it's LOUD (granted a lot is likely the exhaust manifold leak). Drives like a tank (expected). Bounces a bit (expected like my E350 cargo van).
So what the heck have I done? Guys young and old nod, wave, whip out iPhones to take video as I go by...and it's been 24 hours.
Here is sits. I just glued down some rubber mat over the twin sticks and e-brake (not working) to help keep hot air out (and exhaust fumes )
Lastly, I found historical vehicle plates in it. CA #940A. How can I find out more about that? PO was a business and using it as a promo vehicle, but must have been the owner before that who registered as a Historical Vehicle.
Garrett
might as well keep it, for the size and capability there is literally nothing out today that can match these trucks. Anything in the same size category can't touch it for capability, and anything equally capable is 2x the size. If you need an exhaust manifold I'll be removing a good one here shortly as my engine swap progresses.
First I would like to welcome you to the site and secondly I would like to say "Nice M43". Like Tbone1004 has already mentioned, keep it.
Is the engine / drive-train stock?
Bert
1952 M37 W/W Rebuild @ 59% complete
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
NRA Life Member
NRA Cert. Personal Protection Pistol Instructor
NRA Cert. RSO
Class III RSO/KCR
Yes, the drivetrain is all stock. 4.89 gearing or an overdrive would be drive. A little rattle can paint (don't hate - it's a camping truck) and the manifold calls it ready to roll.
there is a deal on the 489 gearsets for the next month or two. Can't find the email right now but when I do I'll post it on here. Saved like $100/axle I think. OD trans is tough with the original motor as it doesn't have enough horsepower to really move it down the road in OD, but something with gears a little closer would certainly be nice.
Let me offer my "welcome aboard" as well! Looks like your bike could fit in the M43; we are biased on this forum but love to see every military vehicle saved from the scrapper-hope you decide to keep it-parts are readily available, and the expertise on this forum would help you with any task you need help completing!
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
I drove it to the park yesterday, got some fuel and filled up one of my emergency 5 gallon military cans (from previous 4x4s) since the fuel gauge doesn't work.
Gets lots of stares, waves and iPhones taking photos - or maybe it's the big black dog in the passenger seat with his head out of the window. I don't want a fancy paint job since this will be a camping mobile and will definitely get scratched. The shops don't seem to understand this. The first quote I got was $5,000 to paint it. Um....no. Have one more taking a look before I give up and do it myself.
I also have a key lock to replace. They wired this thing weird - you have to use a key to turn on the electrics. The day I got it, I forgot the key in the truck, I came back 2 hours later to a snapped key because some asshat tried to steal the truck thinking it was the ignition. Too bad that key only runs the turn signals I think, so they don't work anymore. Should be an easy swap. I REALLY REALLY want 12V power for my camping fridge. I usually run solar power, so I'll research the conversion kits (using the almighty search feature).
your best bet for 12v accessories is to fabricate a dual alternator bracket and run a 24v alternator for the coil and everything on there and then the second alternator for your accessories. Otherwise the conversion is not really worth the hassle and you may as well just put in a different engine with more horsepower. To each his own though. The fact that this is a manual combined with the foot pedal starter is a pretty good theft deterrent by themselves though, so the key for electrics is certainly a bit weird.
Talking paint jobs.......understand that what you're looking for is not what 99.99% of body shop customers want. You've got a few options though.....if you live near one of the military vehicle restoration shops (see Supply Line/Army Motors for their advertisements) you'll find those guys understand and will paint it any way you want. Obviously, regardless of who paints it the more prep you do the lower the cost. You might even try (I can't believe I'm saying this) your local Maaco. Understand that they won't prep at all, or at least don't expect them to....but for around $300 they paint whatever you've prepared for them. I've seen them do halfway decent work when the car was prepped before they got it...meaning scuffed, masked and wiped down. But heading to a body shop that does insurance work or custom stuff probably won't get you what you're looking for for the price you want.
there are a few xtreme 4x4 episodes on the restoration of a deuce where they show a paintjob similar to what you might be wanting. Also a few youtube videos on a guy painting a landrover with a rollerthat came out really well. Will try to dig up the links later tonight
First Welcome to the madness. You now have a disease called OD Fever. You know you are infected when you purchase a Historic Military Vehicle and next thing you know you are saying something like "you know a nice M38A1 will go good with this truck," Or something like that.
It might be $300 bucks at maaco in PA but probably $2000 in CA. Paint it yourself. It's not hard. Good GI paint can be gotten for a couple hundred bucks...You'll need at least 2 gallons to paint it top to bottom front to back. It's easy to use and so what if you get a run in it. I've seen GI truck that had been brush or roller painted in the motor pools. Have fun and enjoy your new rig.