Hi all,
My old Sears analyzer finally gave up the ghost. I bought a Electronic Specialties ES385A as a replacement. It doesn't work. The tach, when it does display, bounces around 200 RPM. The ohm meter won't zero when you short the leads. Anybody have any experiences (good or bad) with these?
Can anyone recommend a suitable replacement?
Thanks!
Dave
Engine analyzer?
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Engine analyzer?
Dave Ostlund
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
Those are usually good meters. Is your truck 12v or 24v? It may be that the meter is designed w/ the expectation that for vehicle testing (rpm and dwell) that its alway on a 12v system? Or maybe that doesnt matter to the meter, some others here may have used a modern DMM on there truck an are more familiar w its use for such tests. As for the ohms not zeroing thats usually a sign of a weak battery in the meter, one is always required to make the ohms function work.
68 M-715 MVPA# 2710
My Sears meter was 30+ years old. It had a hard life. I bought it used, and I got my money's worth out of it. It needed an external 12v power supply to function. When I used it on the 24v system, I just tapped off the first battery.
It's a 24v truck, but it shouldn't matter to the new meter. The RPM function uses an induction clamp, and an internal 9v. I'm using my handy-dandy mil spec plug wire adapter. I did change the battery when I got it because the continuity tone was pretty weak and puny (a good sign of a dying meter battery). Still tested open after the swap.
I contacted the folks I bought it from (Tools Unlimited) this afternoon. They in turn called the manufacturer. Both parties were suitably shocked that I was having problems. They are sending me a return label for a waranty replacement. Seems to be decent customer service thus far.
We'll see how it turns out...
Dave
It's a 24v truck, but it shouldn't matter to the new meter. The RPM function uses an induction clamp, and an internal 9v. I'm using my handy-dandy mil spec plug wire adapter. I did change the battery when I got it because the continuity tone was pretty weak and puny (a good sign of a dying meter battery). Still tested open after the swap.
Are you referring to the ES model? That's good to hear, thanks. I appreciate the input. It could be that I just got a bum unit.Those are usually good meters.
I contacted the folks I bought it from (Tools Unlimited) this afternoon. They in turn called the manufacturer. Both parties were suitably shocked that I was having problems. They are sending me a return label for a waranty replacement. Seems to be decent customer service thus far.
We'll see how it turns out...
Dave
Dave Ostlund
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB