Oil Bypass

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jimmy_stikx
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Oil Bypass

Post by jimmy_stikx »

What's the size and pitch of the holes in the block for the oil bypass lines? It's looking like whom ever owned my M ahead of me installed an aftermarket remote filter. One that doesn't look like a spinoff, well any I've seen anyways.

Any info would be appreciated
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

jimmy_stikx wrote:What's the size and pitch of the holes in the block for the oil bypass lines? It's looking like whom ever owned my M ahead of me installed an aftermarket remote filter. One that doesn't look like a spinoff, well any I've seen anyways.

Any info would be appreciated
The threaded ports in the engine block oil galley are 1/8" NPT threads
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by jimmy_stikx »

Thank you, time to start getting parts to redo the lines to the filter adapter. It's running a PH8A right now, I think I'll stick to it.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

jimmy_stikx wrote:Thank you, time to start getting parts to redo the lines to the filter adapter. It's running a PH8A right now, I think I'll stick to it.
PH8A is a Fram filter #. That is the biggest junk in filters that exist. I would certainly source a different filter brand such as WIX or BALDWIN.
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jimmy_stikx
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by jimmy_stikx »

I'll look into those. Would I need to convert back to the stock type filter arrangement?

EDIT:

A quick look on Summit Racing I found a Wix filter with the same threads as the PH8A for the same applications (Ford V8 pushrods)
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by j mccormick »

PH8A is the Fram number but you can get a cross reference at any parts store. That is a very popular and available filter almost anywhere, even at Wally World.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

It will be an easy cross reference. Keep in mind most retailers now offer 2 or more lines of differing quality filters. Example, NAPA offers a NAPA Gold line which are the better filters. They also offer a SILVER line which is the cheap stuff. I'd stay with the Gold line.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by jimmy_stikx »

Oreily's carries the Wix 51515 which is cheaper than the race one listed on Summit Racing. When I got it, it had a Mobil One equivalent of unknown age.

I just need to get the drain plugs in so I can drill out the odd ball pan plug (star pattern) and replace it.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

jimmy_stikx wrote:Oreily's carries the Wix 51515 which is cheaper than the race one listed on Summit Racing. When I got it, it had a Mobil One equivalent of unknown age.

I just need to get the drain plugs in so I can drill out the odd ball pan plug (star pattern) and replace it.
Drain plug sounds like an original, a 1/2" drive ratchet fits the star pattern. That is unless you really have something weird.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by jimmy_stikx »

I'll double check that with my breaker bar. My largest star wont hit it though, I need to see what size that was.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by T. Highway »

You just put the 1/2" drive portion of the ratchet into the star shape of the drain plug, no bit or adaptor involved.

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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by jimmy_stikx »

Yep,that worked. I still needed a drain plug though, because the one for the bellhousing is missing.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by T. Highway »

The drain plug in the bell housing is standard NPT for thread pitch. You could pick up one with your choice of head style from the local hardware store.

Bert
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1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by jimmy_stikx »

I think the ones I have coming with the water pump are 7/8 head's. I just glad to have new oil in it, helped with overheating a tad. A new water pump and thermostat should round out the deal.
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Re: Oil Bypass

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

jimmy_stikx wrote:Yep,that worked. I still needed a drain plug though, because the one for the bellhousing is missing.
There is no plug used in the flywheel housing; except during fording, that hole should be wide open.
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