Ignition Problems...

[pwrwagonfire]

My M-37 isn't getting spark, and I would like to know where you gentlemen think I should begin the goose chase.

I cleaned the points (have new ones and a new condenser, just waiting for warmer weather to install them), cleaned all the plugs and made sure they weren't fouled but to no avail.

As a side note I guess I should add that my M-37 has a civilian 230, with a civilian PW distributor. New autolite plugs (in July), new rotor.

Pardon my ignorance on the matter, I have honestly never done any work to an ignition system other than replacing plugs and rotor,etc...

[Cal_Gary]

You might do a quick check with the cap off first-cranking the engine to ensure the rotor is turning, as that's where it all begins. If it ain't turning when the engine is cranked, that has to be fixed before you can check anything else. If that's ok, I'd go to the coil then the points and condenser-I run the civvy 12V set up on mine, too.
Gary

[captain kirk]

I would check to make sure your rotor is turning as Cal stated but i believe you will find a bad coil, i had the same issue with mine last year.

[jimmy_stikx]

I agree with kirk, look into replacing the coil. I have an accel one on mine for a v8, works goo so far. You might also want to look into changing the plug wires as well, depending on how old they are if you haven't already. Mine are, again, from a universal kit.

[pwrwagonfire]

Hey thanks guys thats great! I'm gonna try and get over to my parents house today and check the things you mentioned.

[pwrwagonfire]

Just went over to check out my truck a minute ago, the rotor turns when the truck is cranked over.

I took the coil out, it's an Echlin 1C-10.

Called the store, they have a direct Standard match in stock right now, so it looks like I'll be finding out if that was the cause tonight/tomorrow!

For refrence, that Echlin # crosses to "Standard UC-12T," which is listed for 1963 Dodge WM300.

[pwrwagonfire]

On the subject of plug wires:

My truck currently has an old set of "Standard" 9613 on it...both the other power wagons I use at work have the same plug wires. I really like the boots on the end, they seem to fit nice and snug.

I tried to order a set of 9613's last year, got them and they looked to be an exact match, but these are the ones I mentioned were 6 inches too short...seemed to be for a top mount distributor.

The computer system at the store INSISTS that this is the correct set for a Chrysler 230 in a 1 ton dodge truck/WM300.

What are you guys using? The guys with civilian distributors that is!

[jimmy_stikx]

I bought a MSD streetfire set of universals and cut and crimped to length.

[Cal_Gary]

Got mine from VPW with the 90 degree ends-don't recall the brand.
Gary

[pwrwagonfire]

Well, I changed the coil and did some re-wiring under the hood today, cleaning connections and such. Still not firing...tomorrow I guess I will try the condenser and points!

Does anybody with a civilian engine know what the points are supposed to be set to? I have the manual for the M-37, but I don't have a military distributor.


Thanks!

[majorhitt]

Another thing to check, make sure you have a good ground from engine block to the frame.

[j mccormick]

Use a test light and see if you have battery voltage on the positive side of the coil, with the key on. If you do, then put the test light on the negative side of the coil and crank the engine to see if the test light flashes as you crank it. If it does the points are working. Then pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold it away from the engine block about 1/8th of an inch and crank the engine, if you don't get a spark there the coil is bad. Iif you get a good blue spark there, then pull a plug wire off the spark plug and check for a spark there when cranking. If you have spark at the coil wire but not at the plug wire then its the rotor or the plug wire, check another plug wire to be sure. This way is much easier and cheaper than replacing parts to find the problem.

[Cal_Gary]

Good thing I keep a journal of all my M37 parts and tool purchases, and work performed. 'Way back on 3/19/05 I installed a new set of points purchased from VPW and they advised the point gap was .019, so I set them accordingly and they work fine.
Gary

[jimmy_stikx]

I have mine set to the .02 as stated in the manual. Works fine. I will admit that when I got mine working, I changed the plugs, wires, points, condensor, cap and rotor and the coil.

[pwrwagonfire]

thanks for the advice guys! I did check with a test light to make sure power was getting to the coil...while I was under the hood, I did some re wiring on the ignition system to see if corrosion played a factor...

I will definitely check the output on the coil with the test light, I didn't know that you could check the points that way, awesome!

I didn't do the points yesterday as planned, because I wanna learn as much about replacing points as I can before I mess with 'em and make the truck run worse