front disc brake conversion question

[Cav Trooper]

I took the leap and purchased Helitool's front brake conversion for my M37. I am now in the process of trying to find good calipers and rotors without killing the bank. I know I don't need hypo components, just stock. I've found prices on the internet all over the spectrum but would like to find descent quality without breaking the bank. Naturally I don't have cores for the calipers so I expect to pay that fee also.

[Tanner]

I'd purchase them from NAPA or Carquest, or an O'Reilly's...

NAPA lists loaded reman calipers for ~ $60.00 per side including core charge - the other places will be similar in price.

NAPA rotors ~ $40.00 each -

I'm doing the same swap soon -

Bryan

[k8icu]

That would have been my suggestion also. Just hit your local autoparts store. The kit uses K30 Chevy/GMC rotors and calipers right? Maybe find one in a junk yard and pull those parts and use them as cores for the new ones. But then again what you pay for the used part might as well just pay the core charge.

[SierraM37]

When I did mine I just ran down to Napa and bought what Ray recommended in his manual. Stock parts good to go. If your doing all 4 like I did, make sure to put a proportioning valve in.

[MikeOneSix]

Although I'm aways off, I'm planing on doing both axles as well. I was also going with the (dual chamber?) master cylinder conversion as well.
Matt

[Carmen]

This is by far the single biggest thing that I have ever done on my truck. I always said that the Army has an Army of guys to spend time adjusting those brakes. You will love it. I put them on all 4 corners and a Dual M/C. You will never have to worry about downing down hills.

Carmen

[MikeOneSix]

This is by far the single biggest thing that I have ever done on my truck. I always said that the Army has an Army of guys to spend time adjusting those brakes. You will love it. I put them on all 4 corners and a Dual M/C. You will never have to worry about downing down hills.

Carmen

Thanks, that's good to know (especially about the MC). I did that conversion (4 wheel disc) on a WC51 I restored several years ago. It was a good mod.
Matt

[Cav Trooper]

I tracked down the calipers and discs at Advance Auto. Not too bad in price, if you order on line and the store near you has the parts, they are 15% off if picked up. My store salesman ordered the parts in then called me to have me place the order online for the discount. Next issue is that the PO put silicone brake fluid in the system. All of the components, brake lines etc. were new but, I have bought new rear cylinders and hose and since the front comversion comes with new hoses, all I need to do is replace the master cylinder which I have gotten. I plan on tearing the whole system apart, flush the hard lines with some kind of solvent. I haven't figured out which one to use yet but, that's next. I'm going to use compressed air and blow out the lines after flush then, flush with dot 3 brake fluid, blow down then install all of the mechanicals and new hoses and install new dot 4 fluid. I've fought with the silicone fluid trying to bleed it and got ok brakes but I'm tired of messing with it. I have never had a problem with regular fluid, just flush ever so often and keep on trucking. My biggest concern was making sure I got all of the silicone fluid out first and I think my method will work. I am assuming that I need a 10# check valve for the rear and a 2# check valve for the front discs with the new dual chamber master cylinder so, I've got those also. Any body see anything wrong with my approach??

[Tanner]

I've read multiple articles on flushing the lines with denatured alcohol... one problem I have read about on running Silicone fluid is that people bleeding the system would pump the pedal rapidly to build pressure, which creates air bubbles in the fluid & just adds to your problems in trying to rid the system of air. I use a vacuum bleeder to bleed hydraulic systems & don't have issues.

Bryan

[Cav Trooper]

I tried the vacuum bleeder, didn't work. I also had my helper pump the pedal slowly, hard to get good help when it's just voluntary. They did the best they could, interpretation of slowly is different and I couldn't be at both places at the same time. I finally decided to just get rid of the silicone, much less hassle and cost. If I didn't stop bleeding and check every few strokes, he would let the reservoir run out and I had to start over. Some people are not detail oriented. I've been through the brake adjustments and I understand the system, re-arched the shoes etc. finally just decided to fit discs and go from there. I like to drive the truck around town a little and to the range, I just want it to stop when needed without running over a half dozen Toyotas in the process. 45 mph isn't fast until you are cut off by some idiot and don't have enough distance to get it down shifted and braked before placing a really nice looking winch and front bumpers into their trunk. The front brakes, master cylinder, electric fuel pump and electronic ign. are the only non stock parts on the truck and I can live with them.

[MSeriesRebuild]

I've checked on brake parts at Advance several times, always Chinese stuff they tried to sell us, thus the lesser cost. We just don't install that stuff here if we can help it. I'd check on that before purchasing, unless you don't have a problem with using Chinese.