Front End

Carmen · Post by **Carmen** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:03 pm

Every year I do try to do a major upgrade on my stock M37. This year I want to work on my steering. First a little history about my truck. During the past two years I have added XZL 1100 tires as well as front and rear disc brakes along with a duel M/C. I am VERY happy with both up grades. This year I want to work on my steering.

While traveling down the road I have to turn my steering wheel about 2-3 inches before the tires begin to turn.

What I want to know is - Where do I begin to make the steering turn the tires when I turn the steering wheel?

Do I have to rebuilt the steering box? Change my shocks? Check the spring? I hope you get the idea.

Please let me know.

Carmen

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:57 pm

That "2 or 3 inches" is well within tolerances for an M37. They were designed to have a little "slop" into the steering because they were meant to be used primarily in rough terrain. The extra "slop" allows the truck to follow the terrain without overtaxing the driver's arm muscles or causing injury to the hands which can be caused by "bump steer." If you tighten the steering up too much and then go off-road, you're liable to get "spoked" every time you hit a bump or (worse) a rut or hole. If you've ever been "spoked," you'll know that it's not a pleasant experience. Broken or dislocated thumbs hurt.

Carmen · Post by **Carmen** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:20 pm

Lifer

That is a good point I never thought of that. I do ZERO off roading. My goal has been to drive to Aberdeen which is about 180 miles one way for me. With that many highway miles will that have an effect on the ware on the tire? Also, will that 2-3 inches become 3-4 inches?

Thanks

Carmen

gwalker · Post by **gwalker** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:22 pm

Although there is a little free play allowed its likely that after about 50 yrs of service yous may need some adjustments or repairs. You do need the TM for proper procedure an specs for the adjustments. You should ck all your tie rod ends to be sure they arent worn out, be sure your front wheel brgs are greased an tight, then follow the manual to adj. the drag link and the preload in the steering box. The box shouldnt need rebuilt unless you cant get the proper preload adj or it leaks all the oil out. A inch pound reading bar type torque wrench is needed to measure the preload, its very light an hard to judge by feel, overtigthening it will make steering hard an wear out the box fast. Here is a pic of a 715 strg box getting adjusted. the torque wrench is from k-d tools an was only like $15 1/4 drive bar type in. lbs. scale, part #2955, any parts store

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:29 pm

gwalker has offered some good advice here...the most important being "read the book."

To answer your other question, though, it's possible that your 2 or 3 inches of free play could eventually become 4 or 5 inches somewhere down the road, but it happens so gradually that you'd automatically compensate for it as you drive. (Someone who has never driven your vehicle would notice it immediately, however.)

Juan · Post by **Juan** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:18 pm

In my case, every time I found steering free play it isn't at the steering gear it's at the idle arm in front. It actually moves to the sides a little before it starts moving front or backwards. It improves when I add shims to it but with time the free play appears again.