Inermediate drive shaft
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Inermediate drive shaft
WOW I just about choked on the price of the Ujoints NAPA304 42.89 ea
Kinda like the radiator discussion. Is this the only choice?
Also I need to change out the seal in the transfer case. Can you unbolt the plate and work on the bench or leave it alone and work under the truck?
thanks
Rick
Kinda like the radiator discussion. Is this the only choice?
Also I need to change out the seal in the transfer case. Can you unbolt the plate and work on the bench or leave it alone and work under the truck?
thanks
Rick
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
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I just removed the tcase from my truck - its only four bolts to undo the mounts (left the mounts attached to the case, but undid the mounts from the crossmembers. On my truck the case sits on two crossmembers, one if fully riveted in, and the other is bolted [hence removeable]. Removing this crossmember (if you can) should give you ample clearance to drop the case out.
I would remove it from the truck to work on it, but be careful, its stupidly heavy, and kind of akward. A floor jack will go along way to getting it up and down with both you and it staying in one piece. Don't forget to disconnect the shift linkage. It was easy on my truck, two cotter pins and two washers for the tcase, and one cotter pin and washer for the park brake.
As for the Ujoints, I can't comment on the price. But they do seem to last longer than modern ujoints. I'd hate to replace all 6 in one shot, but one at a time isn't so bad. I just paid 60 bucks for each axle ujoint for my Dana 60, and they were the middle of the road brand. Yikes!
I would remove it from the truck to work on it, but be careful, its stupidly heavy, and kind of akward. A floor jack will go along way to getting it up and down with both you and it staying in one piece. Don't forget to disconnect the shift linkage. It was easy on my truck, two cotter pins and two washers for the tcase, and one cotter pin and washer for the park brake.
As for the Ujoints, I can't comment on the price. But they do seem to last longer than modern ujoints. I'd hate to replace all 6 in one shot, but one at a time isn't so bad. I just paid 60 bucks for each axle ujoint for my Dana 60, and they were the middle of the road brand. Yikes!
Ray
1953 CDN. M37
1954 CDN. M152
1953 CDN. M37
1954 CDN. M152
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Re: Inermediate drive shaft
Are you refering to the seals on the front of the case? If so the flanges that the seals are pressed into have to be installed with a certain gasket thickness as the gap is measured with a thickness gauge. If you don't add enough thickness, tightening the nuts will break the ears off the flange. Unless you have oil leaking around the flange gasket, it's a lesser issue to just pull and replace the seal that is leaking. If you need to reseal the whole case, then drop it out and get it on the bench by all means.rixm37 wrote:WOW I just about choked on the price of the Ujoints NAPA304 42.89 ea
Kinda like the radiator discussion. Is this the only choice?
Also I need to change out the seal in the transfer case. Can you unbolt the plate and work on the bench or leave it alone and work under the truck?
thanks
Rick
As for u-joints, the more parts you buy, the more aware you will become that everything has gone OUT OF SIGHT in price, try rebuilding a whole truck if you want a shocker on the price tag. 2 years ago was significantly less than now. If you are dealing with NAPA, demand the Precision brand joints, the chinese joints they pedal now just don't get it.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Thanks Charles
Yes it is the front seal where the intermediate shaft meets the transfer case. I will work under the truck. To tell the truth the E brake side is leaking also but it is easier to work from below rather than try to take out the transfer case. I will make sure I get the Precision joint and not the no name Chinese brand. I'll call em' tomorrow.
Master Yota you are correct I can't believe what is going on. wow It's just like the radiator thread prices are going nuts.
Yes it is the front seal where the intermediate shaft meets the transfer case. I will work under the truck. To tell the truth the E brake side is leaking also but it is easier to work from below rather than try to take out the transfer case. I will make sure I get the Precision joint and not the no name Chinese brand. I'll call em' tomorrow.
Master Yota you are correct I can't believe what is going on. wow It's just like the radiator thread prices are going nuts.
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
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I am just lucky when I bought my truck to restore in 1995, I would buy doubles of everything to keep sock since I will have this truck for a long time. Over the years I would continue to add when I had seen parts cheap at shows. I have many U-joints with $10.00 price tags. I am still buying stuff today. Since some day I do plan on building up another one as I have another frame and axles and parts to another engine. It will all help.
Good parctice VT
Buying doubles is a good practice if you can afford it. That's what I've started doing on the harder to find items - like some of the u joints.
Todd
'52 M37 W/W
'52 M37 WOW
'01 Dodge Durango
'07 Jeep Rubicon (JK)
'52 M37 W/W
'52 M37 WOW
'01 Dodge Durango
'07 Jeep Rubicon (JK)
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Sometimes buying extra can be smart, sometimes not so much. Take for instance u-joints, if you are buying NOS at what you consider a cheap price, you are likely getting taken for a ride. The NOS joints have a cork seal around the bearing cups. I haven't seen one in years that the cork seal is not deteriorated badly and in the majority it has already turned into dust and not a trace is there. Some NOS parts have an almost indefinite shelf life if stored properly in the right conditions, but you can figure on anything with a seal being questionable. Likely is no good when you buy it, certainly when you pull it out of storage to install years down the road, well you will be disappointed and see why the great price. Personally I'd pass it by.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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Reason they were cheap.................This was 1998. As you well know, M37 prices have gone up since then........The only issue I have had with NOS parts is some weather stripping I bought that was still dated 53 and I did not pay alot for that either.MSeriesRebuild wrote:Sometimes buying extra can be smart, sometimes not so much. Take for instance u-joints, if you are buying NOS at what you consider a cheap price, you are likely getting taken for a ride. The NOS joints have a cork seal around the bearing cups. I haven't seen one in years that the cork seal is not deteriorated badly and in the majority it has already turned into dust and not a trace is there. Some NOS parts have an almost indefinite shelf life if stored properly in the right conditions, but you can figure on anything with a seal being questionable. Likely is no good when you buy it, certainly when you pull it out of storage to install years down the road, well you will be disappointed and see why the great price. Personally I'd pass it by.
Back in the day, some of you might remember CAMO in strousburg PA. Lots of parts and really great prices. I was buying stuff from them all the time. If I only needed a couple of things, I would pick up a extra u-joint or drag link repair kit to fill the box. GLAD I DID.