TROOP SEATS

Discuss fixes, upgrades and modifications to your M37

Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi

anthony manzella
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 292
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 4:08 pm
Location: Crestwood Il

TROOP SEATS

Post by anthony manzella »

Got my up rights and seat brackets , Big Question is are the wood seats on driver side same size for the passenger side with the spare tire mounted on the front of the the bed. :? "Thanks Tom for a quick turn around with all weather related conditions of this pass week" :wink: 8)
Hit Duh Ground Runnin
MSeriesRebuild
1SG
1SG
Posts: 2832
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
Location: Norwood, NC
Contact:

Re: THOOP SEATS

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

anthony manzella wrote:Got my up rights and seat brackets , Big Question is are the wood seats on driver side same size for the passenger side with the spare tire mounted on the front of the the bed. :? "Thanks Tom for a quick turn around with all weather related conditions of this pass week" :wink: 8)
If you have the bed mounted spare tire, troop seats are different on the passenger side. There is a swing down portion at the front (often referred to as a "jump seat") to make room for mounting the spare on its bracket. The swing down seat can only be used by a passenger when no spare is mounted. This applies only to the early trucks, prior to the B1 series which went into production during model year 1958. All the B1 series trucks had the door mounted spare tire. On the B1's, troop seat length is the same on both right and left sides.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Carter
1SG
1SG
Posts: 1840
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:48 am
Location: Southeast Corner of Penn's Woods

Post by Carter »

This was copied from Cabell Garbee's M37 website, thanks Cabell.
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/bedwood.htm

" Dimensions for the seats and side boards are:
upper board, 2 each side 2.75"x77" (use 1"x3"x8' boards and cut to length )
headache rack, 2.75"x?? (use 1"x3"x6' boards and cut to length)
seat, driver side are 3.5"x77" (use 1"x4"x8' boards and cut to length)
seat, passenger side with rumble seat are 3.5"x61.5" (use 1"x4"x6') otherwise use same dimensions as used on the left side.
seat, passenger side jump are 3.5"x?? (use 1"x4"x6' board and cut to lengths) "
Carter
Life Member:
Delta, Peach Bottom Fish & Game Assn.
anthony manzella
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 292
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 4:08 pm
Location: Crestwood Il

thoop seats

Post by anthony manzella »

Thanks for the help guys , guess what I'm after is the lenght of the seat boards on the passenger side from back to where the spare is I do have the information that Tom from snake river has given me , but I dont have the M at home so Im looking to find out as much as possilable with out having to take a long trip to where its in hibernation and get everything set for when the old mother nature gives her grip up on this Cold weather. :lol: 8) .
Hit Duh Ground Runnin
MSeriesRebuild
1SG
1SG
Posts: 2832
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
Location: Norwood, NC
Contact:

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

We use several different types of wood based on customer specs. We have a small business near us that makes wood tables for the restaurant industry. What works best for us is to specify the material type and exact dimensions to them, the end product is exact cut to length wood that is dressed and sanded with the proper rounded edges, etc. We can then mark and drill the bolt holes, finish with clear polyurethane or paint, and install. Makes a beautiful show quality job that will last for years, likely forever if stored inside. A little more invested up front, however the last time it needs to be done.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
User avatar
rixm37
MSGT
MSGT
Posts: 898
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 6:05 am
Location: Tucson AZ

Post by rixm37 »

Hello Anthony
Charles is right on the money with his recommendation for doing the best you can up front. I used Garbees dimensions. The passenger side seat is shorter than the driver side. The upper 2 rails are the same on both sides You can tell right off because of where the seat hinges are mounted. I used oak from the local big box. Cut it to length and rounded the edge of each slat with a 1/8 router bit. I liked the oak so much I stained it and put 2 coats of satin urethane on them. Not MIL SPEC but I liked the look allot. Finally I used stainless steel carriage bolts, nuts and washers for all the wood so no rust and no staining on the wood.
Image

Image

Image
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
k8icu
1SG
1SG
Posts: 1270
Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 5:23 am
Location: Cleveland Ohio
Contact:

Post by k8icu »

First....Very nice wood on your truck rixm37! Looks Great!

Second, Has anyone ever tried to use fiberglass (PVC) planks from say a HMMWV seats or say M35? I'm just corious as to how well it would work.
M37s are HMMWV in my world!
MSeriesRebuild
1SG
1SG
Posts: 2832
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
Location: Norwood, NC
Contact:

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

k8icu wrote:First....Very nice wood on your truck rixm37! Looks Great!

Second, Has anyone ever tried to use fiberglass (PVC) planks from say a HMMWV seats or say M35? I'm just corious as to how well it would work.
It works out great.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
anthony manzella
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 292
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 4:08 pm
Location: Crestwood Il

M 37 SEATS

Post by anthony manzella »

BEAUTIFUL pictures rixm37 it is the leanth of your passenger side seats that I'm after hope to come close to your work. thanks one an all. 8)
Hit Duh Ground Runnin
Master Yota
MSGT
MSGT
Posts: 828
Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:50 am
Location: Prince George BC Canada
Contact:

Post by Master Yota »

Just a little note on stainless hardware - put a little anti seize compound on the threads during assembly. Stainless has a tendancy to gall up as its tightended and can lock right on should you need to remove it.

Nice pitctures rixM37...! 8)
Ray
1953 CDN. M37
1954 CDN. M152
T. Highway
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 1818
Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:57 am
Location: S.E. Wisconsin, USA, Earth

Post by T. Highway »

Nice pictures rixm37
1952 M37 W/W Rebuild @ 59% complete
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
NRA Life Member
NRA Cert. Personal Protection Pistol Instructor
NRA Cert. RSO
Class III RSO/KCR
WarrenD
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 473
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:55 am
Location: CT
Contact:

Post by WarrenD »

Rixm37, very nice truck! I agree, though not authentic, the troop seats look much better to me in natural wood. I guess I've always had an appreciation for natural wood finishes. I was rebuilding an old 8x10 view camera years ago (big with bellows) and if I had done an authentic restoration, I would have painted the body battleship grey. (The originals were made just after WW2 and the factory had loads of grey paint left from the war, thus the finish!) When I got the wood parts sanded down, the maple was so nice, I decided to stain and polyclear as I just couldn't cover it with paint.
If/when the day comes and I get my M37, I'll be doing the wood the same way!
User avatar
rixm37
MSGT
MSGT
Posts: 898
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 6:05 am
Location: Tucson AZ

Post by rixm37 »

HI Anthony the seats on the passenger side are 62 inches long. That clears the spare and the tailgate nicely.

Thanks to all of you for all the nice comments :D

Master Yota that is good advice I have had trouble with stainless bolts binding badly. Heck I thought it was because they were made in China and bad steel. I'll now put anti- seize on the stainless I use in the future.
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
cuz
1SG
1SG
Posts: 1147
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:40 pm
Location: Northwestern Wisconsin
Contact:

Post by cuz »

Stainless is great for corrosion protection but is much softer then the Grade 5 & 8 hardware we usually use. When you thread the soft stainless into a harder steel nut or plate nut the stainless will stretch and you often end up with a fatter stem of stainless protruding from the back and front sides of the nut and a very skinny part in the nut. This makes removal very difficult.

The use of stainless hardware is not necessary just for corrosion protection. You can use cadmium and zinc plated hardware so long as you don't accidentally remove the plating they will last very long.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net

54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
User avatar
rixm37
MSGT
MSGT
Posts: 898
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 6:05 am
Location: Tucson AZ

Post by rixm37 »

Thanks Cuz. I didn't know that. I am hoping I never have to take the seats apart. The bolts I had trouble with were in the exhaust system won't be using stainless there again. Had to torch them off.
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
Post Reply