12 volt distributor?
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
12 volt distributor?
I have an M43 that I drive to local car shows and take off-roading. I need to replace the distributor which is a 12 volt and can not find out what civilian 12 volt distributor will fit a dodge 230. I brought the distributor to my local NAPA and they could not find a reference to the part number that was on the old distributor which began with IAY.
I have found 12 volt distributors through vintagepowerwagons, but at this point $300 plus exchange seems too high. Any help is appreciated.
I have found 12 volt distributors through vintagepowerwagons, but at this point $300 plus exchange seems too high. Any help is appreciated.
There's no such thing as a "12-volt distributor." A distributor is nothing more nor less than a mechanically driven rotary switch that directs the spark to each cylinder in a predetermined sequence. It cares not a whit about the voltage applied through it. What makes the difference is the coil. With a 12-volt coil and the right condenser, the original distributor will work just fine.
"PER ARDUA AD ITER"
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Hello TIM7750, HELLO LIFER, and for the military distributor you are supposedly refering to,unlike civilian distributor set ups which have the "coil" separate from the distributor device, the military distributor has the coil located inside the distributor body all as one unit. As such, the original M43 volts being 24, a 12 volt conversion meant replacing the coil inside the distributor with a 12 volt version, there fore is the reference "12 volt " distributor. I have the same set uop in my M37, and Midwest Military has the 12 volt coils...
1952 M37 W/W
Veteran of 82 ABN. Division Motor Pool 1969
Veteran of 82 ABN. Division Motor Pool 1969
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Hey guys. Sorry for not giving enough info. The distributor that is currently in my MV is not a water proof style with compartment for the coil..... so the coil is seperate and mounted on firewall. NAPA's idea is for me to determine what other year/make/model to look up to find a distributor that will fit. Example: 1953 Desoto w/ 230- distributor has proper shaft style and length, but mounting base is too big and will not go into the engine block. NAPA says they can only plug year/make/model into computer. I was actually told by the fellow behind the counter that they are a parts store... not a mechanic shop, so they can't trouble shoot these type of things for vehicles this old. Kind of offensive considering that the only reason this is a problem is because these vehicles were built so well that they have outlived the parts dealers' books/computers information.
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In that case, if the points/condenser are good, all you have to replace is the coil.Tim7750 wrote:Hey guys. Sorry for not giving enough info. The distributor that is currently in my MV is not a water proof style with compartment for the coil..... so the coil is seperate and mounted on firewall.
This is very true. Tell the young punk to get his butt off the computer and open the books. They DO still have them, AND NOT EVERYTHING IN THE BOOK IS ON THE COMPUTERIZED LISTING!NAPA says they can only plug year/make/model into computer.
What a butthead! With that kind of attitude, that shop won't stay in business long.I was actually told by the fellow behind the counter that they are a parts store... not a mechanic shop, so they can't trouble shoot these type of things for vehicles this old.
When people twist my tail because there are so many old Ford and Chevy trucks, I tell 'em thay made so many 'cuz they had to!Kind of offensive considering that the only reason this is a problem is because these vehicles were built so well that they have outlived the parts dealers' books/computers information.

I think it's time you had a chat with the owner of the business and told him what kind of people he has working for him.
"PER ARDUA AD ITER"
Sad to say, "year, make and model?" is all the knowledge the counter folks have today. You've got to find an old shop that's been in business a long time, then find the oldest veteran of the shop in order to have an intelligent conversation, especially if your rig is altered (like mine, runs the civvy distributor, too).
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
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NAPA
Best way to deal with the NAPA brain trust is to walk in with the NAPA number already in hand. Give them a piece of paper with the number on it and tell them, I want one of this number, 2 of that one, etc......Usually you're experience will then go one of two ways . You'll either walk out the door with your part/parts, or you'll hear the line..."I'll have to order that one, I can have it hear by 4:30 tomorrow".
I never walk into a NAPA anymore without having done my homework. One gets tired of dealing with the "I can't make change without a computer" crowd.
I never walk into a NAPA anymore without having done my homework. One gets tired of dealing with the "I can't make change without a computer" crowd.
As long as the coil is matched to the condenser ( capacitor )
and they are reasonant at peak RPM or frequency.
Or the -j and + j are equal , or the inductive reactance and the
capacitive reactance are equal opposite and cancelling you will be fine.
I use a flame thrower coil from pertronix with a civvy dis, works great.
I did have to try a few different capacitors ( condensers ) to get it right.
J.B.
and they are reasonant at peak RPM or frequency.
Or the -j and + j are equal , or the inductive reactance and the
capacitive reactance are equal opposite and cancelling you will be fine.
I use a flame thrower coil from pertronix with a civvy dis, works great.
I did have to try a few different capacitors ( condensers ) to get it right.
J.B.