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It took a while but I finally got back around to working on the truck! With a little help from Mr. Bear I've got the fuel tank out and to the shop!
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Fuel Tank!
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
-
Tim Powell
- MSGT
- Posts: 827
- Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:32 pm
- Location: West Burlington IA.
Fuel Tank!
Tim & Lori Powell
1952 Dodge M-37
1968 M101A1 Cargo Trailer
2011 F350 Ford Flatbed
MC-A1 Air Compressor Unit
Military Tank APU
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil
is that good men do nothing."
1952 Dodge M-37
1968 M101A1 Cargo Trailer
2011 F350 Ford Flatbed
MC-A1 Air Compressor Unit
Military Tank APU
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil
is that good men do nothing."
replacement fuel tank
That would take all the FUN out of it plus it would probably run around $600 to $800 to produce since the molds are so expensive. I have already done two and getting ready to do another one soon . it cost me $150 plus the cost of the fuel sending unit plus the paint and all the fun of putting it back together!
Re: replacement fuel tank
So $150 was RENUZIT's cost or what it cost for you to do it yourself? I hope Mr. Bear is pulling his weight?GERALDO wrote:That would take all the FUN out of it plus it would probably run around $600 to $800 to produce since the molds are so expensive. I have already done two and getting ready to do another one soon . it cost me $150 plus the cost of the fuel sending unit plus the paint and all the fun of putting it back together!
Bruce,
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
fuel tank
HI BRUCE! no not renews it , they charge to much I think it is around $300 plus shipping , I use a very good radiator shop in Salisbury, N.C. that does radiators and fuel tanks, He cleans the inside and coats it, he also re solders the fittings all you have to do is install the fuel pickup plate and install the sending unit . the last two I had done was $150. well pleased with his work. Geraldo
I'm in the process of doing my tank right now. I checked with a couple of radiator shops in my area, and they all told me that no one will mess with gas tanks anymore.
So, I decided I'd rather do it myself. I thought my tank was pretty sound, and just had some surface rust. That was until I decided to start cleaning it. I used a serious degreaser that I use at work inside the tank, sloshing a couple of gallons around for a few minutes. I then rinsed it with water 3 or 4 times, filling it completely each time. I then took more degreaser a scubby pad, wire brush, and putty knife to the outside of the tank to clean it. At that point I began to a lot of pin holes in the tank. I noticed a couple while doing the inside too, but more when I started removing all the Oily grime from the outside of the tank. This same stuff was also covering the entire bed floor and aparently had leaked through the inspection cover onto the tank.
At this point I started trying to solder holes in the tank. Plumbing solder and flux that I had in the garage was not working. So, I got some Nokorode Flux, and acid core solder with a realy low melting point, and went to town soldering about 60 pin holes in the tank. They may not be pretty, but they seem to be well bonded. I also decided to look into a previous repair in the bottom of the tank. What looked like a cheesey repair of epoxy putty was concealing a big wad of lead and 5 sheet metal screws. It looked like someone had driven the screws into pin holes, and tried to seal it up with lead, and when that leaked covered it with epoxy putty. But, since they never sealed the tank, water got back into it, and rusted out that whole mess. So, I cut it all out, and welded in a patch of Sheetmetal.
My plan at this point is to line the tank with a product from KBS coatings. It looks like a decent product, and you can get their 3 step system for about $60. I'll also need to bend up a new pickup tube, and come up with a plan for a sending unit.
Brett
So, I decided I'd rather do it myself. I thought my tank was pretty sound, and just had some surface rust. That was until I decided to start cleaning it. I used a serious degreaser that I use at work inside the tank, sloshing a couple of gallons around for a few minutes. I then rinsed it with water 3 or 4 times, filling it completely each time. I then took more degreaser a scubby pad, wire brush, and putty knife to the outside of the tank to clean it. At that point I began to a lot of pin holes in the tank. I noticed a couple while doing the inside too, but more when I started removing all the Oily grime from the outside of the tank. This same stuff was also covering the entire bed floor and aparently had leaked through the inspection cover onto the tank.
At this point I started trying to solder holes in the tank. Plumbing solder and flux that I had in the garage was not working. So, I got some Nokorode Flux, and acid core solder with a realy low melting point, and went to town soldering about 60 pin holes in the tank. They may not be pretty, but they seem to be well bonded. I also decided to look into a previous repair in the bottom of the tank. What looked like a cheesey repair of epoxy putty was concealing a big wad of lead and 5 sheet metal screws. It looked like someone had driven the screws into pin holes, and tried to seal it up with lead, and when that leaked covered it with epoxy putty. But, since they never sealed the tank, water got back into it, and rusted out that whole mess. So, I cut it all out, and welded in a patch of Sheetmetal.
My plan at this point is to line the tank with a product from KBS coatings. It looks like a decent product, and you can get their 3 step system for about $60. I'll also need to bend up a new pickup tube, and come up with a plan for a sending unit.
Brett
fuel tank
Bret, I think you are throwing good money away on a bad tank! you are just putting off the fact that you need another tank, Im working on a nice tank that is for sale, it will have a new pickup plate, vent and a intank filter, come to aberdeen md, at the show and get it!