My truck has been off the road for about 2 years now (enjoying the rebuild).
Today i got some electrics to the starter motor, ( i must point out i use one of those kill switches - the kind where you can remove the big red key )
OK - Well i turned the key and my starter started whirring, not engaging but sounded like a whirring sound, i got my rubber mallet and tapped it and it stopped.
Next attempt i put my foot on the starter (no ignition) and when i released my foot-----it kept cranking.
( i have during painting of the truck, painted my starter with por 15 paint, )
Any ideas ??, things i thought are: sticking due to non use, sticking due to paint where it shouldn't be, solenoid sticky, Starter sticky, starter stuffed,
Please all thoughts wellcome.
Bruce McCann
Starter Motor
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Starter Motor
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Sounds like a sticking switch on top of the starter. This would cause the starter motor to spin, no drive engagement will happen until the pedal is pushed as the drive is of mechanical engagement.
I will mention 1 other thing that caught my eye, you mentioned using a master switch with a big red key. This sounds like the plastic bodied Hella switch that uses the red key. A word to the wise, if that is what you have, it is a rather poor quality product when in this application. It has a low amperage rating, gets hot quickly in a high draw situation like cranking in cold temps. It can reach such temps rather quickly that the plastic can melt possibly causing serious issues. This can also happen if you have other high draw accessory components on line. It's always best to choose a switch with a metal housing, also read carefully the switch specs. Switches with low amperage ratings are not good, will be short lived, tend to let you down at the worst possible time, & could cause other problems as well. I'm not saying this is the cause of the starter problem you mentioned that is going on now.
I will mention 1 other thing that caught my eye, you mentioned using a master switch with a big red key. This sounds like the plastic bodied Hella switch that uses the red key. A word to the wise, if that is what you have, it is a rather poor quality product when in this application. It has a low amperage rating, gets hot quickly in a high draw situation like cranking in cold temps. It can reach such temps rather quickly that the plastic can melt possibly causing serious issues. This can also happen if you have other high draw accessory components on line. It's always best to choose a switch with a metal housing, also read carefully the switch specs. Switches with low amperage ratings are not good, will be short lived, tend to let you down at the worst possible time, & could cause other problems as well. I'm not saying this is the cause of the starter problem you mentioned that is going on now.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
I agree with Charles on both points, the switch sounds at fault and will probably need to be torn apart. As to the battery disconnect switch, I purchased one from NAPA, as I recall it cost around $70, with removable key, and was one of the best investments I ever made. Definitely worth the money, high amperage rating and reliable. You don't want to be out somewhere and have the disconnect melt. Could cause a major fire hazard and leave you stranded. Spend the extra money and you won't be dissappointed.
"When you buy quality you only cry once"
"When you buy quality you only cry once"
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Hey, I love that line, "when you buy quality you only cry once." Lot of truth in that one.flobble wrote:I agree with Charles on both points, the switch sounds at fault and will probably need to be torn apart. As to the battery disconnect switch, I purchased one from NAPA, as I recall it cost around $70, with removable key, and was one of the best investments I ever made. Definitely worth the money, high amperage rating and reliable. You don't want to be out somewhere and have the disconnect melt. Could cause a major fire hazard and leave you stranded. Spend the extra money and you won't be dissappointed.
"When you buy quality you only cry once"
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
starter
Thanks guys for your help, i will try to locate a diagram of thestarter switch to aid in the pull down.
As too NAPA you reffered to, i don't have one nearby, but will keep an eye out for one in a parts store.
Bruce
As too NAPA you reffered to, i don't have one nearby, but will keep an eye out for one in a parts store.
Bruce
Keep em green to keep ya keen
New Starter question
I have removed my starter, and taken the switch of the top.
I have cleaned the contacts, what should i be looking for ?
If i open it up , what do i do, do i apply oil anywhere ?
regards
Bruce
I have cleaned the contacts, what should i be looking for ?
If i open it up , what do i do, do i apply oil anywhere ?
regards
Bruce
Keep em green to keep ya keen
Switch
I opened up the switch, and it looks pretty tiredin there, what looks to be a contact fell out, and the tip of the pluger looks like the fat tip of a well used soldering iron.
I took a photo, but don't know how to post here[/img]
I took a photo, but don't know how to post here[/img]
Keep em green to keep ya keen
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Sounds like you need a new switch based on your description. I figured that was your problem when you said it was getting stuck. There isn't much repairing when it gets to the point pieces are falling out.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
speedo switch
Have plcaed an order wirh john bizal for a new switch.
the conact in my exixting switch had broken , and i noticed that when i opened the switch.
M series and others, thank you very much for your help.
Bruce
the conact in my exixting switch had broken , and i noticed that when i opened the switch.
M series and others, thank you very much for your help.
Bruce
Keep em green to keep ya keen