Lines and the 24v waterproof distributor

[Argie1978]

Hi everyone.
There are a lot of topics open to catch up in the year I have been off. I am glad the forum is alive.
Now that work is being resumed I also have "situations"....., it's normal.
In this topic, our friend T. Highway described the basic differences between the T-214 (used in the WCs) and the T-245 we all know.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/w ... 45.154857/

My '52 arrived with the 214 and a civvy distributor. The carb was a Seat Bressel/Weber 34 DMS 1/250 used in Spanish cars like the Seat 124 and 131.
Because the carb was not the original, the distributor was (is) not special. During tests (truck stopped) it could keep running.
Several times I thought to keep that config, mainly because money but always with the idea to go original one day.
Now I do own a ETW-1, and we have a real headache when trying to start the engine. Reason: we don't have all the vent lines in place.
Ok, this is my feeling, I am still trying to figure out what's missing. Fuel lines are ok; Fuel pump is ok; Carb is brand new-refurbished. Distri works fine with new points installed.
And we just get a MASSIVE floods of fuel into the cleaner's elbow.....



Here the questions:
1 - Can somebody provide the vent lines mapping? I am not 100% sure what connects to what.



Don't get fooled by the pics. There are more connection I am probably missing.




2 - Is the waterproof distributor compatible with the T-214? I am seriously thinking about purchasing the 24v Prestolite due to this situation.

Thank you all.

[John Mc]

Some of the lines from that set up are intended to go to the waterproof distributor for ventilation. Some say this is to prevent overheating of the components within the enclosed distributor. Others say it's the ionized air building up inside that causes the problem (or the ozone? I forget which.) At any rate, you do not want to run the waterproof distributor without the vent lines properly installed and functioning. A short run for testing is OK.

If you do not have the enclosed, waterproof distributor installed, you can just plug the vent lines associate with that.

When I had Tim Holloway switch my engine from the stock carb to a Weber 2 barrel carb, we had to come up with something else to run those vent lines to the distributor. Since I was no longer using the stock engine-driven fuel pump and I had electric wipers installed (so didn't need the vacuum for that), we used the vacuum pump side of the fuel pump to ventilate the distributor. (My other thought was to install a little aquarium aerator pump to push some air through the distributor. We ended up not going that way - I wasn't sure how it would hold up to the heat/dirt/weather of the engine compartment.)

[Murf]

Don't forget, you need to have the proper venturis in the elbow. They are angled so the air flow is created. For example, if you have 2 coming from the distributor, the inlet venturi is open faced toward the air cleaner (so air pressure is pushed into the line) and the other is turned away from the air cleaner and behind or on the other side of the elbow so the air-flow creates a suction.

[Argie1978]

we used the vacuum pump side of the fuel pump to ventilate the distributor.

That’s a very good idea.
Neither do I know how the aerator would’ve behaved.

…if you have 2 coming from the distributor, the inlet venturi is open faced toward the air cleaner (so air pressure is pushed into the line) and the other is turned away from the air cleaner and…[…]…air-flow creates a suction.

So, are you telling me my concern is true? I need the 24v waterproof distr with the ETW?
But is the waterproof distributor compatible with the t-214??




I have been investigating lots of pictures and the manual. Unfortunately the PDFs I got have the images too damn dark that it's very hard to distinguish the letters pointing to which parts.

As far as I get...
1 - here the fuel tank vent line gets in
2 - here enters the line from the oil filler (it uses a shut-off valve that I don't currently have,...mandatory?)
3 - here goes the cylinder vent line
4- distributor vent line,....rear or front?
5- distributor vent line,....rear or front?
6- .....??????

And one more thing, what is this line for? I see in photos that it is sometimes covered. Sometimes there is a valve there. Sometimes it goes....somewhere.

[sturmtyger380]

Since I was no longer using the stock engine-driven fuel pump and I had electric wipers installed (so didn't need the vacuum for that), we used the vacuum pump side of the fuel pump to ventilate the distributor.

John MC, That's a good idea. What did you do with the open end of the fitting on the dizzy? Put any filter on there?

[Murf]

Easy answers 1st:
The black hose in your last pic goes to/or comes from, ( I can't remember which) a hot water personnel heater. Usually there is just a pipe plug there.

As far as distributor swapping go, here's what Vintage Power wagons has posted on their distributor page call them and double check but it coincides with what I have been told.:

Can I interchange ignition
distributors without a problem?
Yes, distributors are interchangeable
between same length engine blocks
but are not interchangeable between
different length blocks (e.g., 230 vs.
251). Longer block engine (237, 251,
265) distributors have a drive tang
that is approximately 1/4” longer
than shorter block engine distributors
(201, 218, 230). If you happen to be
converting your M-37 truck to 12 volt,
a 12 volt distributor with the proper
length drive tang will interchange. In
addition, you will have to change to a
civilian oil pump to mate with your New
distributor shaft. M-37 distributors as
well as the corresponding oil pump
have an offset tang, (not centered),
which prevents the distributor from
being installed 180 degrees off Top
Dead Center (TDC) on number one and
number six cylinders.

"So, are you telling me my concern is true? I need the 24v waterproof distr with the ETW?"

No. There's no functional correlation between those two components. BUT the waterproof dist needs the two air lines from the elbow before the etw carb. If the elbow only works with the etw and not any other style carb (I don't know) then yes, you would need the etw.

Your vent line #s
1-correct
2-correct-shutoff valve is connected to the fording knob in the cab.
3-correct
4-correct (rear)-venturi opening turned toward carb for suction from prevailing airflow
5-correct (front)-venturi opening turned toward air cleaner for pressure from prevailing airflow
6-simple Drain Plug

[Argie1978]

Alrite Murf, this is a very complete answer. Thank you.
So, both 214 and 245 have a 230 cui displacement (3,775 cm3). And I am not converting to 12v.
This tells me they are interchangeable.
I have read today in the g503 forum about both engines:

They take the same overhaul parts.You will have to install a Civilian or WWII Oil Pump in the T-245 due to the slot on the pump shaft being offset to match the offset on the M-37 distributor.

The topic was a bout a person swapping his 214 for a M37 block in his WC. As far as I know, the oil pump I'm using is the original from this engine (WWII era), seems in case of getting the waterproof distributor I'd be covered.

I have the ETW-1 + elbow and filter. Let's say I keep the civilian distributor, so I would only need to connect holes #1 (fuel tank vent); #2 (oil filler pipe); and #3 (cylinder venting).

[Murf]

Correct, 4 & 5 can remain plugged with the civy dist.

[John Mc]

Since I was no longer using the stock engine-driven fuel pump and I had electric wipers installed (so didn't need the vacuum for that), we used the vacuum pump side of the fuel pump to ventilate the distributor.

John MC, That's a good idea. What did you do with the open end of the fitting on the dizzy? Put any filter on there?

There is a filter on there. I can't recall if we went with the vacuum side of the pump or the pressure side

Tim Holloway did the work. I believe he is in Iowa at the Dodge Truck Reunion at the moment.

[Murf]

With all that being said, I'm not sure any of that is going to solve your flooding problem. I know you said your carb was recently rebuilt but I would be double checking your float and cut-off needle. Somethings not right for that much fuel to get all the way to the elbow.