For those that have broken axleshafts...

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MSeriesRebuild
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Re: Bad Info

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

M376X6 wrote:As you can read from the statements, sometimes there is no rhyme or reason for breaking a rear shaft. No abuse, no loose driveline, maybe a bad shaft from manufacture. No one really knows in some cases!

As far as splined bolts for the flanges on the driveline. Never made, never used, DON"T PRESS ANYTHING INTO THE FLANGES. It'll ruin them.
The part number for the screw (bolt) is 181668. The number for the regular lock washer is 120383. For the nut it is 120370. The bolt is a long shoulder type that is not available that I have found. I make them by cutting down the length of longer bolts to get the proper shoulder length to match the original bolts. Again, no splines on the originals. Don't waste your time looking for something that was never used and will ruin your flanges. If you do decide to make your own by modifying bolts, make sure they are very close to the same weight as each other when finished to prevent mismatched weight bolts, very common to find oddball bolts on these trucks, which will cause the shafts to vibrate leading to a lot of loosening problems on their own. The bolts are a fine thread and I have found over they years that proper torqing will eliminate loosening without the use of locktite or any type of locking nut which makes both it and the bolt one time use only. If you need the dimensions and and type of bolt to use please contact me.

Regards,
Bryan Sage
Well Bryan, I believe this may be the first time I can recall you being 100% flat wrong. I have a couple of boxes of the original bolts on the shelf & can send you a picture of one if you like, of course I'm not going to argue with you as you are entitled to believe what you want, even if it's not correct. You may have misunderstood what I meant by the bolts being a press fit. I didn't mean as in placing the flange in a press & pressing the bolts in. When bolts & holes are of the correct tolerances, the press fit is fairly light as in you can't just slip them in as you would a common bolt, yet snug enough to eliminate the possibility of any sloop. They are designed so that they can be pulled into full engagement when the nut is torqued. When you need to remove them, tapping out with a brass mallet works great. They are good quality bolts & hard enough that the crush type nuts don't ruin the threads when removed. The nuts we use aren't original parts, I choose the nuts because they stay put when tightened & they are reusable without losing their ability to self lock again & again, not true with the ny-lock type. Ny-locks are a use once & toss them deal. I like this set up because if it's done as I've described, you do it once & don't worry about problems. The lock-tite is just added insurance on trucks we build & send out expecting them to give long & trouble free service.
Charles Talbert
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Still Bad info

Post by M376X6 »

You may have a box of original bolts on the shelf, but they were never used on the M37 as orignal equipment or as a later mod. We've now gone from press fit to light press. What happened to the splines? They may be Dodge bolts, but were never used on the M37 series. I also have a selection of original M37 flange bolts, no splines, but a longer shoulder for their length. Believe what you want.

Bryan Sage
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Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Stock, non-locker truck when I bought it, and rear short shaft broke, as well as loose drive shaft bolts.

Image
Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
1953 Dodge M37 - "Frankenstein"
My 1953 Dodge M37 WEB Site
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Re: Still Bad info

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

M376X6 wrote:You may have a box of original bolts on the shelf, but they were never used on the M37 as orignal equipment or as a later mod. We've now gone from press fit to light press. What happened to the splines? They may be Dodge bolts, but were never used on the M37 series. I also have a selection of original M37 flange bolts, no splines, but a longer shoulder for their length. Believe what you want.

Bryan Sage
My original bolt description hasn't changed at all, I was only attempting to give a better description of how it is designed to work in hopes of passing on a clearer understanding. Nothing happened to the splines, that's what gives them the light press fit. The ones I have are exactly like we used for attaching M37 drive shaft flanges when I was in the military in Europe & the US.. For something to have never existed as you claim, I sure have removed a bunch of them just like what I have in the box from shaft flanges over the years, usually from trucks that have undamaged transmission covers, that's because they work & stay put.
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Loose nutz

Post by PoW »

This thread is very entertaining! Maybe we can have a show called "Dancing With the Mechanics".

Variable opinions and theories abound with trucks never sold with a MSO and not supported by the usual parts houses.

All hail the G-series trucks.....

d :twisted:
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Post by 06boblee »

I guess we all need to remember that these trucks had a previous life in the military- driven by people who often tried to break something, we are talking young guys with a vehicle that is not going to cost them if they break something. I'm sure that these good old trucks went through hell and back during their 40 some odd years of service. I'm constantly amazed at how well they have stood up to it all.
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GETTING SHAFTED???

Post by ELBUFO »

Hi guys... New to the "M" game but here's and old Jeeper's trick. Take a die grinder with a cut-off wheel and scribe a line on you're shaft. With that done you can now check the shaft for twist during routine maintenance. It has been my experience that a shaft will twist long before it snaps. I have broken a few in my younger days, and it always happened when I was not hot-dogging it. Hope this helps...John.
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Re: For those that have broken axleshafts...

Post by scooterbob »

Hi guys.
Just want to let you know that I am ready to place another order with Foote Axles In Los Angeles for a batch of 5 pair axle shafts. The ultimate stress test was a couple months ago when I did a truck pull with my rig and the axles stood up 100% with Gama Goat wheels and a 383 Mopar. Check out "M37 truck pull" on you tube. The price will be around $600. I am waiting for an answer from Foote re. cost. I will post a firm price plus shipping as soon as they get in touch. Probably Tue/Wed next week.
Wolfgang Wilz.
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Re: For those that have broken axleshafts...

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Wolfgang, Nice to here and see. The Truck Pull Looked Good and with a Sled Operator that knows how to set it up properly. Great Pull! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvm8lqk6SV8
Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
1953 Dodge M37 - "Frankenstein"
My 1953 Dodge M37 WEB Site
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