I realize I asked this before, however the time is now getting close (now that summer is on the wane and cooler temps are coming) and I will be painting the stars on my truck soon.
What have you all used to do this, rattle cans, or did you use your spray gun? I'd prefer to go simple and just use rattle cans for this job. Don't feel much like dragging out my spray unit and all the crap that goes with that. TIA.
Need star paint recommendation again......
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- sbaumgartner
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I just used Dupli-Color flat white (rattle can) from NAPA, tag on the can says "DA 1672 FLAT WHITE". I think this was recommended by others on the board. It turned out great, no problems.
I've also heard that Rust-Oleum Flat White is good too -- I think the same formula as the Gillespie paints. In fact, found this stencil webpage on the G503 board and he used Rust-Oleum: http://www.1945gpw.com/stencil.asp
Good luck!
Steve
I've also heard that Rust-Oleum Flat White is good too -- I think the same formula as the Gillespie paints. In fact, found this stencil webpage on the G503 board and he used Rust-Oleum: http://www.1945gpw.com/stencil.asp
Good luck!
Steve
From our perspective, both Gillespie and Rust-Oleum are the same chemistry... There are differences that a chemist can tell, but not enough to make a difference when you spray...
Good luck.
Good luck.
'53 USMC M37 w/Cummins 4BT
'64 XM708,
'51 M38
'73 M817, '71 XM813, '70 M816, '84 M931
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell
http://www.eastcoastconvoy.com
http://www.gravesmountaintrailrides.com
'64 XM708,
'51 M38
'73 M817, '71 XM813, '70 M816, '84 M931
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell
http://www.eastcoastconvoy.com
http://www.gravesmountaintrailrides.com
Nick, I used several coats of gloss appliance white enamel (spray cans), I know specs call for flat but after after weathering they all look flat and gloss doesn't chalk and run leaving white staining on the OD. It's in no way orig. but it looks good to me and I'm the one I'm trying to please, no matter what others think of my rig and it can't be to bad, it got chosen to be in next years MVM calendar
Carter

Carter
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Paint....
I'm glad to hear that the consensus is that just your run of the mill paint can be used and not some special formula or brand etc. I think I will keep with the flat look and will probably pick up a couple cans of either the rustoleum or the NAPA paint next time I'm out. Now I just need a nice cool day with little to no wind. At least it won't be as big a job as when I painted the entire truck. I'm only going with a star on each door and one on the hood. Thanks fellas.
- uglyranger
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I thought that Rust-Oleum and Gillespie weren't compatible. I seem to remember Rust-Oleum lifting Gillespie and making a krinkle finish....I could be wrong, but that is what is sticking in my mind. I know a laquier based paint and Gillespie don't match, but I thought that RO did the same thing. I have used Kylon with good success in the past.
M37s are HMMWV in my world!
The chemistry is the same, but the propelent may have been incompatable (and they make running changes...).
Best thing is to always check on a test panel or inconspicuous location...
I've found that something name brand, moderately priced has worked well as long as the base paint is fully cured...
Best thing is to always check on a test panel or inconspicuous location...
I've found that something name brand, moderately priced has worked well as long as the base paint is fully cured...
'53 USMC M37 w/Cummins 4BT
'64 XM708,
'51 M38
'73 M817, '71 XM813, '70 M816, '84 M931
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell
http://www.eastcoastconvoy.com
http://www.gravesmountaintrailrides.com
'64 XM708,
'51 M38
'73 M817, '71 XM813, '70 M816, '84 M931
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell
http://www.eastcoastconvoy.com
http://www.gravesmountaintrailrides.com
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- 1SG
- Posts: 1083
- Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2007 3:47 pm
- Location: West Grove, Pa
paint
NO worries with the base paint being fully cured. I painted my truck almost a year ago....CGarbee wrote:The chemistry is the same, but the propelent may have been incompatable (and they make running changes...).
Best thing is to always check on a test panel or inconspicuous location...
I've found that something name brand, moderately priced has worked well as long as the base paint is fully cured...