Enamel vs Urethane

[greeno]

Sorry to bring up paint again, but I’m stuck.

2-stage epoxy from TM9 seems to be the more durable choice, but I don’t want to be anywhere near isocyanate. I’d rather do the painting myself, which means I’ll need to use enamel (not 100% safe, but not deadly)

Have others sprayed enamel, and any long term reports on it? I don’t want to make a mistake spraying enamel.

[NAM VET]

The Gillespie I used three years go has faded just bit from the sun, but is a durable oil based paint, thinned per instructions with Xylene. As with all paintings success comes from the prep work. I sprayed much of my truck with red primer first, after sanding and dealing with the surface rust with Ospho per instructions. I had some runs due to my inexperience, using a high grade HVLP system, so I just sanded it smooth and painted it again. From time to time I spray a scratch or the like with rattle cans of the same 24087 color Gillespie. I think about1 gallon was sufficient, and I have about 3 gallons left. I pained mine in the driveway, and hung the smaller parts from a hook on my engine hoist. Worked for me. All the best, NV
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[sturmtyger380]

I used Gillespie as well and have not noticed much fading. Remember these vehicles were not showroom cars. However the paint looked coming out the door of the factory is what they looked like. I have bought and used NOS parts that when unwrapped had nice paint runs and hardented drips on edges.

I don’t want to be anywhere near isocyanate.

You do plan on wearing a paint respirator I hope. No matter what the paint you can't take the risk of breathing in the vapor.

As with all paintings success comes from the prep work.

Boy, is this true! Sand, sand and sand until you run you hand over the surface with your eyes closed and you can't feel any difference to the surface. Dust off the body. Use a degreaser to remove any oils on the surface. Even the oil from your fingers will cause an issue with the paint. Silicone will get on metal and cause bunches of paint problems and it's really hard to remove. For a quick degrease I use Acetone. You can buy degreasers for painting. The final thing I do before spraying is to use a tack cloth on the surface.

Don't mess with any paint guns other than HPLV ones. I use a cheap one from Northern Tools. Works great and I keep it clean. When you start to spray do a very light tack coat where you can still see through the paint and let it sit for a minute or two to just dry a bit. Then go back over with a thicker coat. Don't load up the metal with paint. You can make many light passes and get a good coating.

[greeno]

Yes, I’ve been very religious with my PPE including respirator. What I understand about isocyanate is that a very small exposure can cause serious permanent damage to your lungs and nervous system. Unless you have a supplied air system and booth, don’t spray it.

Enamel products aren’t safe either, but their exposure limits are 100x higher than isos. And Cartridge respirators are not designed to work with isos. Skin exposure to isos is a problem too. Nasty stuff. I’m not using it at my house.

[PoW]

Many (including me) have gone to top-level latex paint from Home Depot brand Marquee.

A lot less toxic, and it looks perfect and lasts just fine.

Water-based easy clean up, too.

The M35 in the photo is not mine, just a good example of how it can look.

Behr M35.jpg (185.27 KiB) Viewed 1592 times

Behr OD 2.jpg (47.79 KiB) Viewed 1592 times

PoW

[Halfdunn]

What sprayer would you use for the Behr Latex paint? I like your thinking on the hazards.

[m-37Bruce]

I've used a couple of few horrible freight, in-expensive and simple to use, I have only shot enamel and alkyd, thinned and added hardener.

[PoW]

A buzz gun will work, but it is better to thin it with water and use a good HVLP gun just like that for enamel.

PoW

[greeno]

Hey Bruce - what hardener did you use?

[m-37Bruce]

Cross Fire, Martin Senoir, I cannot remember the stock number, they have a couple, I have purchased a few times. It is quite $$!
I can check and respond later.

[m-37Bruce]

Martin Senour Cross Fire CR733 Moderate Reducer, the other one was CR233 Medium Reducer, a lot faster, better for larger panels. (I think) I tried to add a pic, the file was too large. It comes from NAPA, found it on Amazon also.