I've got a broken fitting on what I believe is the air clearner? I'm not sure exactly what it does, but from my manual it looks to be an inverted flare tube elbow. It was broken when I got the truck and the threads are gone so need to replace it. Any tips on where to find this part or what the specs are? I'm not having much luck online. I was going to try the local stores, but always good to have more information about what may work. For example, does it need to have the tube fitting? I figured the local store may be more likely to have it without the tube fitting. Thank you!
Last edited by 1962m37 on Thu Nov 12, 2020 6:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
that is an important air cooling line to reduce temps in the distributor, important to keep the coil from overheating. We will offer some thoughts more specific soon. NV
Thanks - how about the 90 tube that's attached to the brass fitting? Do I need that? My friend thought I might be able to heat the old one to remove the tube and solder it to the new brass fitting (if the old one is soldered).
The 90 is just a bent piece of aluminum tubing. It was (originally) flared and inserted into the brass. Another brass fitting compressed the tube and screwed on (no solder). Obviously it was crammed too tight as evidenced by the section of stripped threads. The tubing is probably smashed and corroded into the brass. You should be able to free it after some work.
Murf wrote:The 90 is just a bent piece of aluminum tubing. It was (originally) flared and inserted into the brass. Another brass fitting compressed the tube and screwed on (no solder). Obviously it was crammed too tight as evidenced by the section of stripped threads. The tubing is probably smashed and corroded into the brass. You should be able to free it after some work.
I'm assuming the aluminum serves a purpose? It looks like it would restrict some airflow as it sits over the small hole through the brass fitting (the hole through the brass isn't centered).
My broken one was soldered in. I removed the pipe from the broken one, drilled out the new brass to accept the pipe and soldered it in.
1962m37,
Make sure you get the clocking correct, it's kind of like a pitot tube and helps circulate air through the dizzy housing. If you get the clocking wrong it won't work as intended.
ashyers wrote:1962m37,
Make sure you get the clocking correct, it's kind of like a pitot tube and helps circulate air through the dizzy housing. If you get the clocking wrong it won't work as intended.
Andy
Thanks Andy, I believe got it approximately the same angle. It's probably not exact to the degree, but is close to what it was I believe. How precise does it have to be?
Last edited by 1962m37 on Thu Nov 12, 2020 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Contrary to popular belief, it is not for cooling. You couldn't move enough air through the tubing to remove more than a few BTU. It is to provide enough fresh air to prevent ionization and remove condensation in the distributor. The tubes are placed in the center of the airflow of the intake tract. One faces air flow and the other faces back and creates a low pressure area so air can flow. One tube is a curved 90 and the other sticks straight in and has a beveled end. It is in the parts breakdown. Just leaving them disconnected at the distributor will do the same thing. But then it isn't waterproof.
There is either a hole in the distributor cap or distributor body of nearly every automotive ignition system to perform the same function.
just me wrote:Contrary to popular belief, it is not for cooling. You couldn't move enough air through the tubing to remove more than a few BTU. It is to provide enough fresh air to prevent ionization and remove condensation in the distributor. The tubes are placed in the center of the airflow of the intake tract. One faces air flow and the other faces back and creates a low pressure area so air can flow. One tube is a curved 90 and the other sticks straight in and has a beveled end. It is in the parts breakdown. Just leaving them disconnected at the distributor will do the same thing. But then it isn't waterproof.
There is either a hole in the distributor cap or distributor body of nearly every automotive ignition system to perform the same function.
Thanks for the tip. It seems the thread on the line is messed up too so it wont seat into my new fitting. Are you saying I can follow the line to the other end, disconnect it there and it will serve the same purpose? I won't be doing any fording!
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