Good Morning All,
I hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. I'm in the midst of rebuilding my carburetor, which has been sitting for many years. Many of the components are corroded, but came out without a problem... except for the accelerator pump. It is firmly stuck in the carburetor body... I applied Marvel Mystery Oil to let it sit but as of this morning, no help... any recommendations?
Thanks, Dennis
Removal of stuck accellerator pump
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Removal of stuck accellerator pump
Investig8
1953 M-37
1952 M-38
1953 M-37
1952 M-38
Re: Removal of stuck accellerator pump
Thought I'd add the good news... after Mystery Oil treatment and a small torch, the brass end of the accelerator pump came out without damage to the housing! Beginning to learn the torch may be the best tool needed for work on these treasures!
Good day to each of you!
Good day to each of you!
Investig8
1953 M-37
1952 M-38
1953 M-37
1952 M-38
Re: Removal of stuck accellerator pump
Decided yesterday to slightly shorten my E brake rod, so crawled under, and noted that pulling the pin on the front yoke was going to be a problem with interference with the rods to the transfer case, my intent was to just loosen the lock nut, and turn the yoke a few threads. It would't turn. I found that removing the rod from the drum end would let the rod swing far enough forward to pull the pin from the hand brake lever. So pulled both pins, took the rod to my vise, and then found that could not loosen the yoke on the threads, but with some heat I got it to loosen, and shortened the rod about a quarter inch, so my brake drum is tight at 3 turns. It took a few tries to get the two rod ends to line up so their pins would go. Added a washer to each side of the drum end pin, as it had too much play side -to-side. At the drum, found it was much easier to insert the pin from inside to out, the links lined up much better that way for some reason. The pins were only slightly worn, but I touched each on a very fine grinding wheel, to remove any notches or high spots.
I doubt I could have loosened the yoke without persuasion with heat and some penetrating oil. For something else to do, cleaned the rod, and paint it all up so pretty.
Heat is your friend when disassembling these truck for sure.
Now to figure out why my carb is too rich all of a sudden. May order a new needle and seat and perhaps reset my float. Never done that. Did a compression check, my plugs were very sooty, cleaned them, compression was nice and even at 125-120 all cylinders.
My new full flow oil filter system runs fine, no leaks, self primes in a few seconds. Running 10-40 Redline. Found a quarter sized flake of paint and rust on a rear fender; a wire brush, some Ospho, primer, and a touch up with matching 24087 spray paint, can't tell it was even there. I have a new front window to put in, not sure I want to tackle that by myself, I don't want to drop it. Power washed it' looks really nice.
All the best,,,, Hal, aka NAM VET
[url=https://postimages.org/][img]https ... .jpg[/img][/url]
I doubt I could have loosened the yoke without persuasion with heat and some penetrating oil. For something else to do, cleaned the rod, and paint it all up so pretty.
Heat is your friend when disassembling these truck for sure.
Now to figure out why my carb is too rich all of a sudden. May order a new needle and seat and perhaps reset my float. Never done that. Did a compression check, my plugs were very sooty, cleaned them, compression was nice and even at 125-120 all cylinders.
My new full flow oil filter system runs fine, no leaks, self primes in a few seconds. Running 10-40 Redline. Found a quarter sized flake of paint and rust on a rear fender; a wire brush, some Ospho, primer, and a touch up with matching 24087 spray paint, can't tell it was even there. I have a new front window to put in, not sure I want to tackle that by myself, I don't want to drop it. Power washed it' looks really nice.
All the best,,,, Hal, aka NAM VET
[url=https://postimages.org/][img]https ... .jpg[/img][/url]