Rebuild time on the 230 flat head engine

[outpostm37]

performed the head bolt retorque today. Amazed that there was about an 1/8 turn to reach the torque setting of 68lb/ft. I also adjusted the clutch linkage, it was set a little bit tight with the fingers starting to "click" on the springs of the disc. A little more each day.

[Kaegi]

performed the head bolt retorque today. Amazed that there was about an 1/8 turn to reach the torque setting of 68lb/ft. I also adjusted the clutch linkage, it was set a little bit tight with the fingers starting to "click" on the springs of the disc. A little more each day.

amazed that is was only an eighth or that it was that much? what type of head gasket did you use?

I run my engines kind of hard so I run mine to 75 on retorque. I install bolts dry

[outpostm37]

I used a Felpro head gasket that was copper on one side, and blue paper on the other. Used the copper spray on the copper side. I torqued per the military manual, 65-70 ft.lbs. Went to 68 each time. This was my first engine rebuild that required a retorque of the head bolts.
Dry on the nuts for the studs. The bolts/studs received Permatex #2 that go into the water jackets.

[Kaegi]

sometimes they dont loosen up. but unlike t overhead valve engines the flathead is very wide with many bolts so they are bound to need a retorque. I spray both sides no mater what type of gasket I use. copper spray fills in any small imperfections well.

[just me]

FelPro to explicitly rejects the use of spray on the blue coated gasket material.

[outpostm37]

I called the Felpro technical line. They said use the copper gasket spray on the copper side only.

[Kaegi]

Im aware that they recommend that. I was taught how to rebuild engines buy guys that built nascar and indy engines back in the day. they spray them regardless of manufacturer recommendations. I have never blown a head gasket in problaby 250K of driving 230s ive rebuilt. half of that or more on one truck with way higher than stock compression. Either way is fine. you wont ruin it by spraying both sides is my point I suppose.

[outpostm37]

Im aware that they recommend that. I was taught how to rebuild engines buy guys that built nascar and indy engines back in the day. they spray them regardless of manufacturer recommendations. I have never blown a head gasket in problaby 250K of driving 230s ive rebuilt. half of that or more on one truck with way higher than stock compression. Either way is fine. you wont ruin it by spraying both sides is my point I suppose.

Kaegi, would like to here about the 230's that you have. Compression numbers, amount machined to achieve that compression, and camshafts used if a special grind. Company that supplied the camshafts. Special "tricks" used inside these blocks.

[Kaegi]

Im aware that they recommend that. I was taught how to rebuild engines buy guys that built nascar and indy engines back in the day. they spray them regardless of manufacturer recommendations. I have never blown a head gasket in problaby 250K of driving 230s ive rebuilt. half of that or more on one truck with way higher than stock compression. Either way is fine. you wont ruin it by spraying both sides is my point I suppose.

Kaegi, would like to here about the 230's that you have. Compression numbers, amount machined to achieve that compression, and camshafts used if a special grind. Company that supplied the camshafts. Special "tricks" used inside these blocks.

The most I have removed is .075 from the head. I have run a few different cams. I have Delta camshafts in Tacoma WA do the regrinds. I have been using their regrinds in many engines since the 80s. they do excellent work and I have never had one fail. Very inexpensive. less than 100 for a 230 cam. They will dress the lifters for a buck or two a piece if you want
I had them give me one grind they called the HP grind and that really improved acceleration and top end perf. the one i did last was for my WC52 and went with a torque grind it never lacked power dragging logs, offroad in extremely steep scenarios but it didn't accelerate like the HP grind.
When running non stock cam i always install it and and valve train and measue the lift above block surface. that way I know not to shave off too much. I was emailed a copy of a head milling chart a few eyars ago and it states that if you shave .070 you gain 1.0 in compression. that would be with stock bore I assume. So if you go .070 off the head and then bore the block .060 and you started with 7.0 to one comp you would easily end up at 8.5 or higher. they showed specs up to .125 and the gain would be 1.9. . I dont know the CC of the chambers so cant give perfect math on the affect of the bore. these things really wake them up even with stock carb. up to two barrel or drill out jet helps too. i have not done the two barrel conversion but spoke with guys who have. All liked it.

[outpostm37]

Performed more work on the M37 today. Recheck timing, carb adjusting with vacuum gauge, some other minor stuff.
Vehicle seems to be getting happy with everything, a little bit at a time. Drove it several times for short jaunts.
Still worried about vapor lock with the outside temp being 105*F or so. I am running the standard fuel pump with no feed back for the fuel to go back into the tank. All went well. No major issues. I am looking at the first oil change and going to Valvoline 30wt racing oil for the higher levels of zinc and phosphorus, aka ZDDP. The Carburetor, the accelerator pump on the ETW1 still does not act instantly, maybe just me being used to a 2014 fuel injected Ram as a DD. Good to have the critter out on some asphalt.
Here is a pic of the most important addition to the cab of the M37.

[outpostm37]

Installing a 24v electric pump for the gasoline. Tired of the mech pump with its issues, ie. vapor lock with the summer temps.
This one has the 1/4" 18tpi which should do the trick.

[outpostm37]

Got the 24 volt electric fuel pump installed today. Had to use the Mityvac to get gasoline to the pump. Apparently there is a mineral oil inside the pump for shipping. I drained this out and all was good. Hopefully there will be no more vapor lock issues. Vehicle drove fine in the heat. Stopped several times, and headed on my way with no issues. $97 with shipping was $107. Beats the cost of a tow. checked the pump pressure at the input to the carburetor, it is at 4.5 psi.