1954 M37 rebuild thread
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Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
Nice progress, looking forward to seeing how it fits in the engine bay and trans tunnel with the cab on.
Bert
Bert
1952 M37 W/W Rebuild @ 59% complete
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
NRA Life Member
NRA Cert. Personal Protection Pistol Instructor
NRA Cert. RSO
Class III RSO/KCR
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
NRA Life Member
NRA Cert. Personal Protection Pistol Instructor
NRA Cert. RSO
Class III RSO/KCR
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
Now to work on the cab. The cab is in good shape -except for rust under the hood hinge area. previous fixing left a lot to be desired. I will cut this out and weld in a patch. The brace under the cowl is rusted away- need to figure a fix, is there a replacement part? Is it spot welded around the hinge bolt holes?
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'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
Yow, that looks like a bit of work to repair. No replacement braces are available to my knowledge-would take some work to fab one up.
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
It's weird, the rest of the cab is in pretty good shape. The other hinge area is rusty too-- but not near as bad as the drivers side. the fresh air cowl is in good shape. It looks to me that the under cowl area got little to no paint when built.
I can repair it, and I will take pics along the way!
I can repair it, and I will take pics along the way!
'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
Looks almost like it was stored upside down and water was laying in those supports.
1953 M37
1964 M151A1
1967 M416
1984 M1008
4/1952 M100
12/1952 M100 gone
1964 M151A1
1967 M416
1984 M1008
4/1952 M100
12/1952 M100 gone
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
New intermediate shaft! The blue end uses a larger 1350 spicer u joint.
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'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
Fits!
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'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
coming along.
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'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread

“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
story on the intermediate shaft work. I started to clean it up for paint when I noticed the u joint on the t case flange end was very tight, and I could feel a "catch" in it when I moved it back and forth- so back to the drive shaft shop. They tried to fix it, but eventually put in a new u joint and after waiting for an hour for that he brought it out and it felt fine. I said thanks and went home (50 mile) got to cleaning it up again and noticed that the cups were turning in the yoke-WTH. I took it apart and saw that the DS guy had filed out the cap holes on the flange, looked like crap- and don't know why it was done, but I was done with them! I had a spare flange so I put it back together. This shop has been around for decades and has a good reputation, but did a bad job for me.
morale of the story--- check everybody's work.
primed, ready for paint
morale of the story--- check everybody's work.
primed, ready for paint
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'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
pics of the flange. I noticed that he also did some grinding on the inside face of the cup ear. the cups just fell out of these, when I moved the u joint the cups would rotate .
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'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
Wow what crappy work on your flanges! Hope you intend to get your money back at a minimum since they ruined your parts.
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
Hopefully, the bill was paid by credit card. Since you're not likely to ever go back there for more work, contesting the charge is an option.
If nothing else, the owner of the shop should be made aware of the work that was done. If he thinks it was okay, then you know what sort of place you were dealing with.
If nothing else, the owner of the shop should be made aware of the work that was done. If he thinks it was okay, then you know what sort of place you were dealing with.
“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
It sounds like what you had was a bent joint housing, which usually only happens when a joint breaks at speed and the shaft is banging around and the u-joint cups fly out which leaves the housing vulnerable to be bent. The flange is not in a position to be flailing around in a broken u-joint scenario. Even so, If it were bent you would see the interference point when you press the cup back out and some judicious sanding with a sanding drum on a Dremel would take care of the problem without ruining the flange. Any driveline shop should know this and you should take that flange back and show it to the owner. If for no other reason then to prevent the moron that did it from using a grinder in someone elses parts!
1953 M37
1964 M151A1
1967 M416
1984 M1008
4/1952 M100
12/1952 M100 gone
1964 M151A1
1967 M416
1984 M1008
4/1952 M100
12/1952 M100 gone
Re: 1954 M37 rebuild thread
actually when I took the shaft in it was to get the female end to the spline replaced (for a bigger u joint). the original u joints were OK, had them replaced anyway.rickf wrote:It sounds like what you had was a bent joint housing, which usually only happens when a joint breaks at speed and the shaft is banging around and the u-joint cups fly out which leaves the housing vulnerable to be bent. The flange is not in a position to be flailing around in a broken u-joint scenario. Even so, If it were bent you would see the interference point when you press the cup back out and some judicious sanding with a sanding drum on a Dremel would take care of the problem without ruining the flange. Any driveline shop should know this and you should take that flange back and show it to the owner. If for no other reason then to prevent the moron that did it from using a grinder in someone elses parts!
'54 M37 wew
MVPA #16921
MVPA #16921