Rear wheel bearings to be greased soon, any tips I should..
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Rear wheel bearings to be greased soon, any tips I should..
know about?
I understand the axle shafts must come out when the rear wheel bearings are worked on. Is there any difficulties with this that I should be aware of? I now know what to expect from the bearings and seals part of it, just never have had to deal with axle shafts. Any and all info appreciated. TIA.,
I understand the axle shafts must come out when the rear wheel bearings are worked on. Is there any difficulties with this that I should be aware of? I now know what to expect from the bearings and seals part of it, just never have had to deal with axle shafts. Any and all info appreciated. TIA.,
- HingsingM37
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Nick,
There is nothing to be concerned with out of the ordinary. Loosen and remove the nuts. Use the threaded holes with a bolt to break the gasket seal then slide the axle out with one hand while supporting the shaft with the other. Do this slowly, make sure not to let the end of the shaft drop on the floor. After that, the hubs are serviced just like the fronts. While re-installing the axles, keep the shaft centered the best possible in the axle housing and it should slide tight back in. Make sure the shafts are oiled up on reassembly, its easier on the seal lips. If I forgot anything I am sure the guys will add it.
Good luck and enjoy. I'll be sending you my latest truck update soon
There is nothing to be concerned with out of the ordinary. Loosen and remove the nuts. Use the threaded holes with a bolt to break the gasket seal then slide the axle out with one hand while supporting the shaft with the other. Do this slowly, make sure not to let the end of the shaft drop on the floor. After that, the hubs are serviced just like the fronts. While re-installing the axles, keep the shaft centered the best possible in the axle housing and it should slide tight back in. Make sure the shafts are oiled up on reassembly, its easier on the seal lips. If I forgot anything I am sure the guys will add it.
Good luck and enjoy. I'll be sending you my latest truck update soon

David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
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Rear bearings
David;
Thanks for the reply. One question, Do the shafts have to go into the exact position they came out of, or is this not critical?
Thanks for the reply. One question, Do the shafts have to go into the exact position they came out of, or is this not critical?
- HingsingM37
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I did punch mark the axle and hub when I did them. Although I do not know if it is necessary, since the splines are equally spaced on the shaft and will install in any position. I did it to conform to whatever wear pattern their might be 

David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
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Re: Rear bearings
Shaft configuration makes no difference, anaerobic gasket maker applied to the outer seal & axle flanges does a better job sealing than using a paper gasket. We use sealer exclusively without paper gaskets at all.Nickathome wrote:David;
Thanks for the reply. One question, Do the shafts have to go into the exact position they came out of, or is this not critical?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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Re: Rear bearings
How about diff. gear oil? Do I need to drain the differential before doing this? Seems to me that pulling out an axle might cause gear oil to leak out. Or is this not so? Only asking because I have never done the rears before.MSeriesRebuild wrote:Shaft configuration makes no difference, anaerobic gasket maker applied to the outer seal & axle flanges does a better job sealing than using a paper gasket. We use sealer exclusively without paper gaskets at all.Nickathome wrote:David;
Thanks for the reply. One question, Do the shafts have to go into the exact position they came out of, or is this not critical?
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Re: Rear bearings
Draining oil isn't necessary.Nickathome wrote:How about diff. gear oil? Do I need to drain the differential before doing this? Seems to me that pulling out an axle might cause gear oil to leak out. Or is this not so? Only asking because I have never done the rears before.MSeriesRebuild wrote:Shaft configuration makes no difference, anaerobic gasket maker applied to the outer seal & axle flanges does a better job sealing than using a paper gasket. We use sealer exclusively without paper gaskets at all.Nickathome wrote:David;
Thanks for the reply. One question, Do the shafts have to go into the exact position they came out of, or is this not critical?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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It makes no difference if you pull one shaft or both-if you were pulling the center chunk you'd have to pull both anyway so it won't hurt a thing pulling both.
Back in "the day" before I started my own business when I had both time AND money, I had a set of front hubs faced out to clear the axle seal nuts on the rear and used them in place of the axle shafts when I flat towed the M-37 behind my duce. I put many hundred miles on that way, and groused about the $.75 per gallon fuel. (fat chance of ever seeing that again)
The long way around to saying just what I quoted above.
Have fun with your "M"
Back in "the day" before I started my own business when I had both time AND money, I had a set of front hubs faced out to clear the axle seal nuts on the rear and used them in place of the axle shafts when I flat towed the M-37 behind my duce. I put many hundred miles on that way, and groused about the $.75 per gallon fuel. (fat chance of ever seeing that again)
The long way around to saying just what I quoted above.
Have fun with your "M"
No society in history has ever taxed it's way to prosperity.
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It was originally offered by Lock-Tite, but is now available from various sources. It's the best general gasket sealer/maker we've used here. Is the consistancy of grease coming from the tube, apply by rubbing it on with you finger. It doesn't cure in the presence of air like silicone RTV & similar products, but cures only after parts are assembled & it gets out of the presence of air. Does a super job of filling & leak free installations of pitted parts surfaces. Any excess that is squeezed out upon assembly can simply be wiped away even days later as it never cures as long as air is present. It can be used as a gasket dressing & in many cases without gaskets at all. It's a staple product in our shop & has enabled us to build many leak free components.peter e mark wrote:Charles, What is anaerobic gasket maker?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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Anerobic sealer.
Yes, I am going to have to look for some of that stuff myself. Sounds like it would be an assest in every toolbox.