Window channel adjustments

[billy]

I found the section of the manual that shows how to adjust the windows m43b1.
Going to giver er the ole college try once again
This has been an ongoing pain in the ass
Is there a trick to get them just right so they will go up and down easily.
I replaced the channel lining and those windows wont move

[RMS]

how much paint is on the frames ?

[billy]

No paint
Absolutely smooth operation until the window is in it.
Then so tight it just dismantled itself. By ripping the metal frame off the glass
All adjustment screws have been tight loose and everything in between .
It looks like my options are
1 remove glass and cover with plastic ( that way i can use the door)
2 save up 2 weeks wages and hire somebody that MIGHT be able to fix this sonofabitch
3 wire it shut (if possible) And forget i ever had a usable driver door or window

[billy]

I went with number 1
Going to have to carry a tarp everywhere i go and remove all tools etc
And dress in my heaviest clothing to go anywhere
This thing is my daily driver

[RMS]

toss the factory felts. on one truck im running teflon sliders, counter sunk screws bolted in the stock holders. window is tight, no flopping when up and very easy to roll up and down.

this mod was done after replacing the felts and making the mistake of waxing the frame for ease of use...wax + felt = no roll up or down.

[billy]

Teflon is a good idea.
I will see what i can find

[billy]

The round snap on clips that hold the regulator to the window glass are available at ace hardware

[billy]

toss the factory felts. on one truck im running teflon sliders, counter sunk screws bolted in the stock holders. window is tight, no flopping when up and very easy to roll up and down.

this mod was done after replacing the felts and making the mistake of waxing the frame for ease of use...wax + felt = no roll up or down.

Can we see what you did?
I doubt if you have photos but it's worth asking

[RMS]

looks like 1/8th sliders were used

first is a pic of how it looks in the truck with window rolled up


window channel with sprung plastic sliders.


the sprung sliders support the frame nicely with no high speed flopping but has tight spots when rolling up or down

[billy]

Wow
Thanks!

[peterberendsen]

Some years ago when I first got my M37 neither of the windows in the doors would work smoothly. I thought that lubricating the mechanism might help. I opened the access panels and found that the pins protruding from the regulator mechanism on one window had rusted so that the clips would not stay on. I got a new window regulator and before installing it explored further. The regulator has a long arm with a roller on it. This roller moves in a piece of horizontal channel which is held onto the inside of the door with two screws visible on the outer side of the inside of the door. These channels in both doors were bent, deformed and splayed outward. They were easily removed. A little effort with a vise and hammer tapping brought them back into proper "U" cross-sectional shape. After reinstalling these channels the door windows worked fine. At the same time lube the mechanism. You might also put a couple of small holes in the bottom of the door compartment to allow drainage of rain water. It is also a good idea while the window compartment is all open to paint the bottom inside well of the door with some rust resistant paint. It will not be visible but might impede future rust-out. Peter

[peterberendsen]

This is a follow-up to yesterday's note on door windows. The bent channel that I described is in Ord.9 SNL G-741. There go to figure 18-6. The channel track that I described is labelled "L" and is #7374836. It is called "Bracket". It is listed on page 299. In TM 9-8031-2 on Pages 322-323 it is the part "NN" and has the same part number as above (#7374836). It is easy to remove and reinstall. See page 324 in TM 9-8031-2 on this. Straightening it cured my difficult window operation. Peter

[RMS]

the tilt adjuster you speak of has a lot to do with efficient window operation. in my case the wax I added made the felt sticky and even with the mechanism completely disconnected it took two of us to pull the window out of the runners.

I inspected the tilt adjuster #7374836 in five separate trucks with stiff windows and every bracket was splayed stretched and twisted. I removed the felt runners from my 52 in frustration with the window operation. only to have the window crack from flopping around on a fsr @ 40mph

luckily the solution presented itself when I purchased what would become the 265 cdn. the PO had the solution : Teflon sliders.

I have since installed teflon sliders on the 52 (old slow and green) and on Terry's 54 (m37 propane conversion) and I am about to start work on the sliders for the 265 cdn

oh ya ...welcome to the board Peter looks like you have brought a wealth of information...now lets see some pics

[RedUtilityTruck]

I'm looking at adding some "teflon sliders" to my daily driver. Only problem is I have no idea where to find such material or even where to look.

What little success I have had, shows the teflon strips as white in color rather than the black shown in the pictures.

Any leads and suggestions will be most helpful,
Thanks,
J

[NAM VET]

My windows will roll down fairly well when my doors are closed, but to roll them up, I open the door and then pull up on the glass while winding the handle. Less stress. And I also drilled small holes in the bottom of the doors, they tended to full up with water in the rain. And after my truck sat in the sun for several days, I sprayed a wax coating down in there. Paint may just seal in water, whereas the wax seeps into the seams. I do it from time to time. Look up. "Cavity Coater", Big spray cans with a wand. Hal