1952 M37 CDN Restoration

[R1830]

Just starting work on the restoration of my M37. I found it about 4 years ago, last licensed in 1982 and not running. After purchasing it a couple days of work did get it running but then life got in the way and it sat at my dads place until now.

Here is what it looked like when found:



Finally got around to bringing it home and I'm going to try and get it torn apart this winter.





The good:
Engine ran well once the carb was cleaned out and ignition corrosion cleaned. Had oil pressure and was charging the battery. Frame looks good so far, front end has minimal rust. Has troop seats, drivers side spare tire rack, rifle clip by the passenger seat.

The bad:
Box is entirely rotten, needs a new floor for sure sides are pretty rough but they are just flat sheet metal and welding is fun right so they should be salvageable. Cab floor is pretty rotten too.

It is going to take a while and I'm sure there are better trucks out there to start with but this one is mine so off I go.

Day 1:
4 ferries and a 14 hour day to pick it up. Did manage to get the roof off while on the ferry which is good because it wasn't going to fit in the garage otherwise. Got it home and in the garage. Put a can of penetrating oil on to every visible bolt.


Aside from some rot where it attaches to the windshield and a big dent the hard top is in pretty good shape.

Day 2:

First real day of work on it. Got it washed down, tailgate off, hood off, winch off, bumper off, grill off. Followed the advice of RMS and cleaned up the back end of every bolt I could see with the wire wheel and put on some more penetrating oil. Thank god for the air impact or I'd still be on the first bolt. They are coming off though and only 1 has sheared so far.




Hoping to get it down to the frame over the next couple months and then start building it back up again. This is the first time I've done a restoration like this and I am learning as I go so please feel free to pass along any advice or helpful tips.

Cheers,
Warren on Vancouver Island BC Canada

[T. Highway]

First of all welcome to the site. The truck looks to be very complete and I like that you posted enough pictures to get us all interested.

How about a first name?

This is a great site for getting all of your M37 questions answered.

Bert

[RMS]

wow just hammering through it, good to see.

what is the warning on the back of the window to roof filler ?

[R1830]

Robyn,

I'm away from home at the moment but I can look when I get back. If I remember right it was to turn off the radio set before turning the ignition off. There is a fairly beefy wire that goes from the battery box to the front of the bed so I'm guessing this had a radio plugged in there at some point.

Name added to the original post. Sorry

[NAM VET]

always good to see someone else posting about their own experiences with their on M 37. I hope to begin my own restoration in a few weeks, as soon as my knee re-habilitation progresses enough for me to retrieve it from where my M 42 sits in my son's work garage. One of my first projects is to remove the winch and front extensions to clean them up and reinstall. I am going to buy a engine hoist soon. But I note in your picture where you have your hoist lifting your winch the two cross Angle supports seem to be bending up. Do you think this is from your own removal, or some prior lifting? I may need to re-think how I can remove my own winch without damaging the cross supports. Any suggestions for me ?

Nice work, by the way.

[R1830]

The angle iron was already bent from previous use and is on my list of things to address. The winch isn't light though so lifting my there may have helped the bending along. Another option would be to wrap around the drum all the way with a longer chain or put a long bolt to the brackets on either side and attach chain to there.

[Cal_Gary]

Excellent start, Warren! There is so much to learn and know about these trucks that it would be difficult to offer any tips or advice until you ask for some specifics, be it brake questions, parts vendors and the like.

This is the best HMV forum for M37 Series fans-most posts garner several responses due to the massive years of expertise and experience present here. I will offer one tip since you've just begun: don't look at the entire vehicle and everything it needs all at once or you may become discouraged or overwhelmed. Choose a specific sub-project and work through that first. Once that's complete, figure out what you want to do next. Keep a journal as you go so you can refer back to it years from now if you're forgotten some long-lost piece of your previous work. I worked through mine in this way, and while it's still not finished (they never are, anyway) I was finally able to start driving mine around two years ago. That's how long it took me after the purchase way back in 2004! So it can be done! Think "mechanicals over cosmetics" and let that be your guide. I know it's difficult to ignore multicolored paint but I'd prefer serviceable brakes instead. That's the point.

Keep us posted on your progress-also note that the CDNs have some differences that could limit some responses for those of us with limited CDN expertise.
Glad to have you with us!
Gary

[Jess]

Warren, Welcome to this site. There are a few more of us on the Island that get on here from time to time. If you've been in contact with RMS, then you have a good local resource person with lots of parts...

When you get time, look for the CAR / CFR # on the front drivers side frame horn, just ahead of the grill and may be under the winch extension. This number is the unit number assigned by the Canadian Army when it was put into service. Unfortunately, the records for these vehicles were destroyed and the numbers reassigned to newer equipment after they were released in the mid to late '70s. You will find the serial number stamped on the frame, drivers side, just behind the rear cab mount. It should be the same as the one stamped on the data plate and is used for registering the truck with ICBC if it doesn't already have a good title. Good rust free body parts are scarce out here on the coast but repairs can be done or replacements found, including new reproductions for some pieces.

Four ferries? Where did this one come from? Do you have a manual? If not, I have a copy of the Canadian Army RCEME Repair Manual on a USB drive that you can have printed. Let me know, and I'll get it to you.

I currently have 4, one which would be considered 'parts' and badly rusted out. The others are a runner, a rust free project and a sleeper waiting to be re-awakened. All they need is some TLC and $$$...

Have fun with your truck!

[isaac_alaska]

on the top of the winch, there is meant to be a "locating plate" instead of the two pieces of angle, it's purpose is to keep both sides of the castings completely square with each other. they're available from VPW or MWM for not very much money

[Jess]

The dimensions of the plate and the lower rod were posted somewhere here. Search will get that thread if you want to fab your own. Tom @ Snake River 4x4 has the plates and rod available. He has the original design top plate and another checker plate that is handy to stand on while working on the engine. There are other sources too, but these pieces are easy to make.

Take pictures of the cam pattern on the truck, any markings and numbers you find as your project progresses. The door markings and others you may find will tell you a little about what its assignment was and unit involved. I'm no expert but can direct you to a site where there are some guys who could tell you about them. The Ashton Armoury in Victoria has a restored M37CDN and other interesting vehicles. Your truck wears the camo pattern that I recall seeing on these in the mid 70's just before they were released. Lots of the cargo, ambulance and radio vans were used in Calgary and Edmonton. Yours likely came for there given the lighter colour on the cam pattern.

Take lots of pictures and post your progress, we do like pictures...

Jess

[RMS]

I forgot to tell you: if you remove the doors be sure to replace one bolt with a long stud or the "nut plate" will fall into the bottom of the kick pan and you may have to flip the cab to retrieve it. then fight for hours to get it back in the right position. if servicing the door hinge do it on the truck. the head may need to be removed then the hinge supported by a highlift jack, big hammer,punch, heat. the pin can be replaced with 5/16th bolt

if the power plant is coming out, first find a long high quality (hazet, >70s snapon,,,, 5/8th or is it 11/16th? open ended wrench to undue the flywheel D bolt nuts. they are tight and will round out with a cheep wrench.

oil pan comes off before the timing cover (there is a bolt from the backside)

and dont forget about that ground strap from bell housing to frame. Ive wrecked two

[NAM VET]

RMS, little hints like yours are sure useful, to aid me in my own restoration. I think I will leave my doors on when I go to paint them. Thanks,

[R1830]

Thanks Robyn and Jess,

I will get the CFR and serial tomorrow. The 4 ferries were from the island to Vancouver then over to the Sunshine Coast and back. Truck was in Sechelt.

Doors and engine are both coming off so those tips will be invaluable. Thanks very much. I did send you an email about some parts Robyn but it may have ended up in your junk mail box.

[Jess]

Consider putting your truck into the Registry on this site. Its a way to preserve the information about these individual trucks even if they change owners and disappear from our view here. Pics on the album go back some years and are interesting to look from time to time.

Offer for the RCEME Repair Manual still stands if you don't already have one. Its on a USB memory stick that you take to Staples and have them run off a copy or two. There is also a parts listing that covers every nut bolt and washer along with all the other parts. I think RMS has a copy and I have an incomplete copy, missing a few front pages. Mine would need to be copied but might be worth the cost. Whenever I have Staples do any copies of manuals, I always make sure they save the files to a USB memory stick, so I can share them or print working copies for myself.

Let us know what you need, if anything.

Jess

[R1830]

Thanks for the offer Jess but I have the manuals already. My parts listing is missing pages 1-2 but otherwise complete if you need a copy of some pages. If you find yourself passing through Duncan feel free to stop in for a look and a beer. Where on the island are you?

I put my truck in the registry a few months ago but will update it soon as I uncover more data.