amsoil? ever tried it?

[billy]

getting ready to fill my rebuilt tranny t/c

[ZGjethro]

i run it in my every day drivers and in my 2stroke dirt bikes and chainsaws. It is a premium oil, and worth it. I have not run it in the M37, but I am thinking of using it in the transmission and transfer case. I have 80 or 90 wt oil in there now and I'd like easier shifting. You can buy direct from Amsoil

[RMS]

making the switch to amsoil Synthetic Powershift Transmission Fluid SAE 50 and away from multi weight gear oils in the trans/tcase is worth every penny.

this is what eaton fuller has to say about transmission lube

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... Nd1k0hmXpw
"The use of mild EP gear oil or multi-purpose
gear oil is not recommended, but if
these gear oils are used, be sure to adhere to
the following limitations:
Do not use mild EP gear oil or multi-purpose
gear oil when operating temperatures are
above 230°F (110°C). Many of these gear oils,
particularly 85W140, break down above 230°F
and coat seals, bearings and gears with deposits
that may cause premature failures. If
these deposits are observed (especially a coating
on seal areas causing oil leakage), change
to Eaton Roadranger CD50 transmission fluid,
heavy duty engine oil or mineral gear oil to
assure maximum component life and to maintain
your warranty with Eaton. (Also see
“Operating Temperatures”.)
Additives and friction modifiers are not recommended
for use in Eaton Fuller transmissions."

there are many brands of 50w oil available I am running a chevron synthetic 50w shifts are smother no more beating the sycro's and I think im getting about 0.25 to 0.5 mpg more I also no longer put in the clutch before hitting the starter

[carolinamv]

I run it in my axles,trans,and t case on my M37. Charles from M series recommended it.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Is the AMSOIL Synthetic Powershift Transmission Fluid SAE 50 a Non-EP oil? IE is it designed for use in transmissions with transmissions with brass/bronze?

[MSeriesRebuild]

I run it in my axles,trans,and t case on my M37. Charles from M series recommended it.

Not sure whether I'm interpreting this correctly of not; so let me make something very clear. I DID NOT RECOMMEND RUNNING 50 WEIGHT OIL IN AXLES. Amsoil 50 weight long run transmission oil does a super job, we use it all the time in these two gear boxes. There is a very specific reason why it is called 50 weight TRANSMISSION OIL. Axle gearing is very different, and needs an 80-90 gear lube of a totally different type, please don't say I recommended something that I never have or ever will. If you are indeed running 50 weight in your axles, you need to change to the correct type of oil, NOW!

[carolinamv]

You said Ams Oil 50W Trans oil , and Ams Oil 8090 gear oil in a thread when I asked what I should use.

That's what I run since we are talking about Ams oil , that's why I said what I said.. I run Ams Oil in my axles,Tcase, and trans.

[RMS]

I thought the same thing till I realized that it was I who specified trans oil "as an example" but the thread started as general talk about the brand not a specific application.

[MSeriesRebuild]

You said Ams Oil 50W Trans oil , and Ams Oil 8090 gear oil in a thread when I asked what I should use.

That's what I run since we are talking about Ams oil , that's why I said what I said.. I run Ams Oil in my axles,Tcase, and trans.

Understood; I knew there was a possibility this was what you meant, but just wanted to clarify, didn't want anyone misunderstanding and making the assumption that one specific product met the specs for all. A misunderstanding of this sort could lead to causing someone reals problems, sure don't want that happening.

[carolinamv]

Charles you got that right. Im really happy with the oil in the truck

[outsider]

Do not put synthetic oil in anything old unless you replace all the rubber seals first! If you don't you will be shortly as the original lube swells the rubber in the seals and the synthetic oil will remove the chemical that swells them and shrink them back to original and they will leak.

Steve

[MSeriesRebuild]

Do not put synthetic oil in anything old unless you replace all the rubber seals first! If you don't you will be shortly as the original lube swells the rubber in the seals and the synthetic oil will remove the chemical that swells them and shrink them back to original and they will leak.

Steve

I will have to respectfully disagree with the above statement for the most part.

Several reasons here; first, there are premium quality products, and lower quality products out there in both petroleum and synthetic lube oils. In fact the lower end synthetic suppliers are marketing their product by simply implying that synthetics are the better choice. It reminds me much of the way some military vendors push perishable items like NOS oil seals, u-joints, master cylinder/wheel cylinder repair kits, rubber weather-strips, wiring harness, etc., just to name a few. Such items will have deteriorated to some degree right out of the package depending on age. Obviously (common sense applied) such items as a 60 year old oil seal is not the best way to go; however many from the masses rush to purchase because they feel it's God's gift to the hobby, they drool over what they think is the REAL DEAL; it's NOS. When the leaks they endeavored to stop keep right on dripping after the Godly NOS seals are installed; then it becomes a "motor pool restoration", (or good enough to get by in a push), after all, they always dripped, or that great line, "they mark their territory." I'll have to differ, the deal here is the repair was not done correctly, stopping drips does get a bit complex at times, but it mostly boils down to a thorough inspection of seal bores and mating surfaces after tear down and clean up; then proceed to repair all the issues surrounding the drip, and replace the seal with a fresh current production product made of material that is compatible with both today's petroleum and synthetic oils. The above statement blaming synthetics for leaks, no real truth is in that statement. Reality is this, any decent quality lube oil, regardless of type will leak past old leather seals, which are most often mated to a yoke that has a groove worn where the seal runs or has been devastated by rust pits because of those moisture holding felt dust seals that are an integral part of many NOS seals. Both types of oil have chemical additive packages blended in, not any of the chemical components used to make up a decent additive package is compatible with the leather sealing technology of 60-70 years ago. Lubricant technology has changed by light years since the M37 lube order was printed. With the exception of showing where the lube points are, the order is virtually useless in today's lubricant market place. I'm always amazed by those who rebuild their engine and then go seeking for non-detergent oil because of something they read somewhere. Reading to educate one's self is good, but not so much if the material is based on the products that were available 60 years ago.

Back on subject, top quality oils have additives blended in that are aimed at keeping good quality seals flexible and as pliable as they can be so they work well longer; but REMEMBER, all the good intentions here are out the window unless that seal has a good, clean, smooth, bore to press into as well as a good surface to mate against. The reason for my reply to the above post is based on many years of maintaining and rebuilding old equipment. I always seek to educate myself concerning the best lubricant technology that is applicable to any given situation. Good lubricants are not cheap, neither is any of the lesser quality oil these days, so why would we put less than the best oil in gear boxes? It has been proven by us right here in house, lesser quality oils, petroleum or synthetic is more likely to drip over time because of the lack of seal conditioning additives, and other issues if corners are cut. I got started using the best quality lubricants years ago when I had heavy equipment. Did not take long to see how using the better products paid big dividends. I have seen the same result since we have been restoring trucks. The bottom line with us; repair it RIGHT the first time, use the best quality lube oils or grease that is intended for the given application from the get go. It won't be cheap, BUT I can assure you that you will be much happier with the long range result. You won't have constant oil dripping either. There is a 2 fold positive result, no drips will keep cost down because you are not having to top off oil levels frequently, and your gear box or engine will live a much longer life (better than you think possible) as a result of applying common sense repair practices and the best lubricants.

[outsider]

Charles, I have been repairing heavy semis for over 30 years. We have been playing with synthetics before you even thought about it. We don't screw around with cheap lubes as that costs money. Now if you would like to stand behind anybody's vehicles that have problems be my guest. I have seen what happens, and I have put in my thoughts on the subject, but as we all know only YOU know anything!

Steve

[Monkey Man]

Keep the discussions friendly guys....or the Mod Monkey will come out to play....

MM

[MSeriesRebuild]

Charles, I have been repairing heavy semis for over 30 years. We have been playing with synthetics before you even thought about it. We don't screw around with cheap lubes as that costs money. Now if you would like to stand behind anybody's vehicles that have problems be my guest. I have seen what happens, and I have put in my thoughts on the subject, but as we all know only YOU know anything!

Steve

Steve, I'm not offended in the least if you disagree with me. First of all you have the option of not reading my post if you so choose. I'm about to turn 64 years old, my career in working with trucks and heavy equipment started in June 1970, so this year June 2016, adds up to 46 years. I'm simply stating what I've learned and found to be true about oils and greases based on my experience over this time span, just as you did. I never saw seals that were not leaking before start to leak because of solely changing from a petroleum oil over to a synthetic oil. I have seen seals that were already leaking actually leak worse after changing to synthetic oil, but in my opinion, that was to be expected. Leaking seals should have been repaired prior to changing oil types.