I thought at length about what might have led to the "wearing" of parts that would result in a space here.
I guessed it might be from the Synch Rings themselves. ( Assuming that the pins wear over time and shorten the end to end distance of the entire unit.
Since one set of pins are loose, I figured it was probably a good idea to replace them thanks to MidWest.
I'll report back if this fixes the issue.
I did end up finding Thrust Washers ( From UK ) that I can use to shim the main shaft, but would prefer not to do that if the new Rings work.
I thought at length about what might have led to the "wearing" of parts that would result in a space here.
I guessed it might be from the Synch Rings themselves. ( Assuming that the pins wear over time and shorten the end to end distance of the entire unit.
Since one set of pins are loose, I figured it was probably a good idea to replace them thanks to MidWest.
I'll report back if this fixes the issue.
I did end up finding Thrust Washers ( From UK ) that I can use to shim the main shaft, but would prefer not to do that if the new Rings work.
Loose pins are for sure part if not most of the issue. They can most often be re-braded and tightened again, unless they have been loose for so long the holes are egg shaped. They have to be braded into a snug bore or they won't stay tight.
Re-braded, now that's an interesting term that I haven't come across before.
Is that like tapping in a thread, although, that would only serve to widen the hole.
Do you put some sort of material on the pin's leg, then insert it ??
I'd love to recondition the existing rings and use them in my spare Tranny.
Re-braded, now that's an interesting term that I haven't come across before.
Is that like tapping in a thread, although, that would only serve to widen the hole.
Do you put some sort of material on the pin's leg, then insert it ??
I'd love to recondition the existing rings and use them in my spare Tranny.
You may run across many terms down here you haven't heard before. Sometimes we only know what they mean in house.
Pins are installed with a rivet press. Ends of the pins are hollow, it works like a brake lining rivet.
Thanks again Charles !
That makes total sense.
I started to research the Tool and see how it would work well in this case.
I received my package of goodies from Midwest. Woo Hooo.
I did notice that the new Clutch Rings fit very differently into the Outer Synchro Rings.
The old ones sit flat in the "Cup" of the outer ring. The new ones sit roughly 1/8 inch out.
This alone will give me the extra space to close the gap.
But, is this normal ??
Does the clutch ring naturally "drop" into the Outer ring over time thanks to wear ?
I'm going to measure the pins and report back as well.
Hi folks,
The new Synchro Rings made a huge difference. The end play is now in the .04 range which is what is should be.
The difference is amazing, as the entire Synch assembly is nice and tight now.
Problem solved, thank goodness I didn't start grinding the Pilot bearing.
Now to follow Charles' guidance for the Companion Flange ( Yoke ) !
Does anyone have any words of wisdom on pulling the existing transmission and replacing it ?
Are there any "tricks" when filling it with gear oil ?
When builds are completed, we fill with 50 weight long life Amsoil transmission oil before the top goes on; then there is no mess under the truck after installation.
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