M37 coil problems.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Wed May 14, 2008 6:19 am

I hope I can find this post when I go to install all my 24v stuff. I have none of the coil cooling plumbing which I assume is steel tubing.

I wonder if there is a diagram of that stuff in the manuals? I haven't seen one so far.

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Wed May 14, 2008 6:40 am

John -

I went to the local NAPA and bought a bunch of off the shelf brake lines of various lengths - 12", 18", 24", 36" and 42". I bought a little tube bender for $8. I started all of my bends from the carb elbow end and bent them to follow available photos - dist vent lines aim down out of the elbow, bend 90 toward the engine, bend 90 around the lift hook, bend 90 toward the head bolt bracket, bend 90 down toward the dist. I had a little extra tubing so I made a nice loopie around and into the dist. After a nice dry fit, I painted them rusto-semiblack to avoid the rust (I think the originals were left bare steel). IF I was a real man, I would have cut them to correct length but I did not have a flare tool and I am usually horrible at flaring. You'll need a few extras to get the hang of it but you'd be amazed at the creative shapes you can do when you muff one. Other than the labrador hiding under the truck for a while until the "all clear" was sounded, it was no big deal. I post some photos if you want. Keith

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Wed May 14, 2008 7:28 am

Photos would be great, if you have time. My engine is a 218 Plymouth Industrial, so I have to add back all those parts that regular T214 engines have.

g741 · Post by **g741** » Fri May 30, 2008 5:15 am

Hello: I also believe that the imported coils are a hit or miss situation, along with some of the other electronic stuff. Sometimes I suspect that they were wound to handle 12 volts and just do not stand up when we put 24 volts on them. I use good used American made coils whenever I can. Your original coil may just have reached the end of it's life. Or maybe lack of ventilation to to it. Good Luck, Sid

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Fri May 30, 2008 5:56 am

Here the 2 images of my vent lines bent and painted

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Rail man · Post by **Rail man** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 3:00 pm

Yes i agree it may have just been time for the original coil to give up.The thing is i have gotten 5 new coils some of witch were claimed to be NOS,however none of them went more than 20 miles one of them that had a made in china sticker on it didn't even move the temperature gage. $250.00 later i'm getting gun shy.

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 3:38 am

Replacement turn signal modules and now coils appear to be a big unknown. My module was bad right out of the box and we worked for a few days trying to isolate the problem, only to come back to the module. Luckily we had a regular relay that Charles helped us with.... hours and dollars lost.

Rail man · Post by **Rail man** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 5:12 pm

I don't think i'm going to think about the turn siginal moduel until i get the truck on the road again. I recently found a made in USA Auto-lite coil, since i've had no luck with imported coils i thought ,last resort.not being confident with it on the road i let it idel for 20 min before the coil gave up. Something has to be causing this does anyone have an idea?