Looking at getting an M37 and would like to know what things I should be on the lookout for. I live in Colorado Springs and I found a couple in the Denver area on craigslist I thought I would look at. I can do my own work so I only farm out engine block work. My goal is a reliable everyday driver that wont see much highway use and I'm not expecting anything over 55 mph. What are the common upgrades that guys doing for reliability? Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Steve
Truck Found.
Last edited by tinmedic on Thu Dec 31, 2015 2:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.
If you want 55 you'll likely need the 4.89 axle gears. I have slightly taller than stock tires on mine and even 40 is loud and fast for it. But the trucks are amazing for what they are.
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires Photo Gallery
Both of those look very nice to me! I'd be tempted to go with the cheaper one, depending on how much work u want to do restoring it and what u want it to be.
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires Photo Gallery
I can't see the drivers side of the more expensive one but the cheaper one has the holes right in front of the drivers door for the spare tire swing arm and also the release hole right behind the door.
I would want to drive each of them and see how loose feeling the shift arm is in the top of the transmission. Also try to see which engine seems to pull better or do a compression check if they will let you.
Not necessary... The only M37 series produced in 1953 that had a door/cab mounted spare was the M43 ambulance. The cab pictured with the door/cab hinge mounting hardware was from a M37B1that was produced several years later.
This suggests that you should be extremely careful that paperwork is complete and correct for any truck you buy. Different states have different procedures. Be sure that you can register the truck.
I personally think the bed mount is better because the swing out mount sticks out too far for in the woods
and it makes it a pain to get in and out of the cab
anyone know what all the switches under the dash on the more expensive one are
they look like there stock. are they ?
never seen anything like that before
Thanks,TRAVIS
When it comes to gambling I don't play the Powerball, I play the Powerwagon
1952 M37 FARM TRUCK
230 W/THRUSH EXHAUST, DELETED HEAT RISER AND 12 VOLT IGNITION
The cheaper truck is in fact a B1, as evidenced by the instrument cluster lights and the longer shifter. Finding the door mounted spare parts can be pricey, but they're out there. Why the seller calls it a 53 is anyone's guess, but most people don't know how to figure out when an M37 was made. The more expensive truck looks to have had a pretty easy life, judging by the shape of the bed floor. Nice truck.
Whichever you buy make sure the serial number is still in the driver's side frame rail and legible..........and the truck has a clear title.
If you post the frame serial numbers we can tell you the date of manufacture.
Buying old cars and trucks..... You usually get what you pay for ! Rust is the eternal enemy.
Knowledge is power. If you can, take an M37 savvy person with you to look at the trucks. They will see things that you would probably miss. They'll probably know WHERE to look for the rust, missing parts, and have a general opinion on the overal condition.
Rust is extremely costly and time consuming to repair. Again... You get what you pay for.