She's listing to starbord, cap'n!

[N1VSM]

My truck has always had a distinctive lean towards the passenger side. It has now developed a slight shimmy in the front end that resonates at about 40 MPH - my cue to start tearing into things before something fails (again ).

I'm looking at the sagging leaf springs in my suspension, and wondering if re-springing the springs is a potential DIY repair. (perspective: I consider a steering knuckle rebuild a DIY: differential rebuild is not.)

Will disassembly, cleaning, coating (or not - my choice), and reassembly enough to restore shape and function?
I'm expecting that the bushings are shot, and that it will be a grand old time getting everything apart.
Any sage words of wisdom before I open this Pandora's Box?

[RMS]

a re and re of the springs is definitely a diy program. I have worn out/ broke four different complete sets of springs. I like to do one side at a time, I found the bushings come out easily, sometimes too easy . if you want to re ark the springs you will have a lot of hammering in your future...... my manual says the springs are chromoly...... a lot of hammering.

I would find some better leaves, get new U bolts and center pins. if the bushings and pins are not severely worn and if the truck see's any kind of off road don't replace them till you have too. they only last me 8000 miles. IF the bushes in the spring eyes get too thin it can cause the eye to distort and become oval. this will not be apparent till after the new bush is installed and you go to put the new pin in and it doesn't fit. easy cure if you have an adjustable reamer or a long procedure with a round file.

adding a regular spring steel leaf will not last and may cause neighboring springs to break.

inspect all the spring hangers for lose rivets, cracks, side wear and ovaling of the drivers side front spring hanger as it gets pounded the most.

upon reassembly do not over tighten spring pins to make up for any side clearances.

My truck has always had a distinctive lean towards the passenger side

this is most likely due to the shims on the drivers side to compensate for the weight of the spare tire hanging off the door. the shimmy is likely due to worn/frost damaged tie rod ends, knuckle bushes/ bearings, affecting camber caster and/or toe.

[choppa]

hummm.... My truck (1963 with NOT INSTALLED factory door mounted spare) has always had the "lean" toward the passenger side as well.

I always thought I had some sort of worn or broken springs, or worse (gulp!) a bent frame.

But I didnt think about the weight of the missing spare tire and spare tire carrier.. that makes sense!

is there something I could do to correct this, aside from finding or buying a door mounted spare tire carrier and spare tire to hang on it?

Shim removal on drivers side ? would this mess up the steering in any way?

or just live with the lean to avoid messing up the steering geometry.

[RMS]

hummm.... My truck (1963 with NOT INSTALLED factory door mounted spare) has always had the "lean" toward the passenger side as well.

I know nothing about the b1's but every canadian truck I have had, has had spacers/shims between the drivers side springs and the axle perch.

I have run the shims/spacers/blocks on both sides front and back(mods needed for passenger front perch),on one side and just in the rear on one side.

correct me if im wrong but do solid axles care how the truck is sitting upon them? does having a fat _____ in the passenger seat make the truck pull to one side? will an uneven scrap load cause the truck to wonder ? I say no.
one day I had two diesels with 4spds attached in the box, went around a corner and bang! the passenger side rear leaf pack sheered at the center pin, the frame fell landing on the spring pad. I grabbed the wheel tight expecting to be pulled into the ditch and nothing......... I stopped, inspected, found the axle was wedged between the broken leaf pack and carried on home. im glad no cops or d.o.t. guys saw my truck leaning with the front in the air as if I was on switches, but the drive home was uneventful, no pulling crabbing or shaking.

with a solid axle the caster/king pin inclination is set with welds along with camber the only adjustment is toe in or out. yes caster can change a little depending on how level or raked the truck sits but we are not too concerned about under steer.( yes on a wet greasy off camber corner with a big rake the front tires will tend to slide.)however knuckle bearings(upper/lower) and tie rod ends are were the issues arise.

[N1VSM]

this is most likely due to the shims on the drivers side to compensate for the weight of the spare tire hanging off the door. the shimmy is likely due to worn/frost damaged tie rod ends, knuckle bushes/ bearings, affecting camber caster and/or toe.

I forgot to mention, mine's a 1951 - bed mounted spare, which is on the passenger side of the bed. So maybe it IS to compensate for my gravitationally generous keester.

Am (was) planning on going through the steering components again - it has been almost 10 years since I last tore it all apart. Of course, we're supposed to get snow tomorrow (whee!).

[RMS]

after ten years I would think an inspection is in order, even if a truck hasn't turned a wheel false brinelling happens.

I forgot to mention, mine's a 1951 - bed mounted spare, which is on the passenger side of the bed.

hmmm my 52 had spring spacers on the drivers side a bed mounted carrier(m43?) and reinforcements for a door mounted spare???

[choppa]

man.. I tell ya I am learning so much just reading thru past posts and asking questions of my own.

I took the time over the weekend, when under the truck to drop the fuel tank, to check out my spring perch spacers... yep.. thats it.. I got spacers (oh about 1-1.5" thick) on the drivers side springs.

I guess as I will never install a door mounted spare, I will level the truck by removing the spacers.

I will gain a inch or more clearance in the roof area too to clear the garage door
thanks to you all for your combined advice, knowledge and insight !