Plate for engine stand

[Chris P]

I’m getting ready to pull my engine. The engine mounts to the engine stand using two tabs at the rear of the engine, one on either side of the engine. Each tab has two holes. A friend has pointed out that these tabs are thin and they can break, causing the engine to fall from the stand and wrecking the block (among other things). He has suggested that I have a metal plate made to place between the engine and the stand, so that all of the holes at the back of the engine can be used. Has anyone ever made such a plate? More to the point, does anyone have such a plate that they are willing to sell, rent or loan?

Thanks.

[Elwood]

Two mounting points doesn't sound right. Can you post a photo of the stand?

[Chris P]

The stand is at a mechanic’s shop. It’s a standard stand that mounts at four places, but someone who has put a few M37 engines on stands told me that the four places end up on the two tabs. Each of the two tabs has two holes.

Perhaps that’s not the case and other holes can be used? I’m guessing that may be the case. My engine is still in the truck. So although I can see the tabs, and they do look wimpy, I’m not able to see where all the holes are located.

[Elwood]

I'm not sure what you mean by "tabs". Are they part of the engine block or part of the engine stand?

I just pulled the 230 from my '54 M37, and had it mounted on an engine stand with the usual four hole plate. This stand came with four heavy links, which are about four inches in length with a hole at each end (perhaps something like these are the "tabs"?) I bolted one end of two of the links to the plate on the engine stand, adjusted them as needed, and then bolted the flywheel end of the engine block to the other end of the links, using some long grade 8 bolts and spacers as needed. The upper two holes on the back of the engine block where the clutch bellhousing bolts up lined up with the plate and did not need the links.

[Chris P]

Elwood, thanks for posting those pics. They really help me understand how the engine will mount on the stand.

The “tabs” I was referring to are the two thin pieces sticking out of the side of the lower back of the block. You have one bolt from the stand in each, at the bottom. Those pieces look too thin to hold the weight of the engine. You can see that much of the engine’s weight is on those tabs, rather than being distributed about the whole back of the engine. Gravity should cause the engine to want to swing downward, pivoting about the upper bolts, and concentrating stress on the spacers against the lower tabs. A plate against the block would distribute the weight, relieving the stress on the tabs.

I was actually thinking that all four bolts were going to go into those "tabs" (two in each). Now that I've seen these pics I’m embarrassed to admit what I was thinking. I must have misunderstood that part of what my friend was saying, but his concern may still be valid.

Thanks again.

[Elwood]

Chris, I've bolted and unbolted the engine block, complete with crank, internals, and head, from that stand at least twice, and not had a concern. I've rotated it (the head of the engine stand allows for the engine to rotate to work from the top, sides, or bottom) multiple times, and not had a problem.

When installed in the truck's frame, the engine bolts to the clutch bellhousing, in part through the holes in those "tabs", and the bellhousing is what mounts to the truck frame. That bolted and doweled face between the bellhousing and the engine block has to withstand not only the weight of the rear half of the engine (which would put the same stresses on those "tabs" as you described), but also the torque forces.

[Chris P]

Elwood, thanks for the comments. What you're saying makes sense.

[refit1701]

Maybe someone tried holding up the engine by those two "tabs" alone? That would probably end in disaster. I used four mounting points, which is how the engine stand is designed. I had the entire assembled engine on mine, minus the transmission and the rear block gallery plug....but that's another story.

[rickv100]

I had a similar problem getting the links to line up on my Engine stand I just purchased two strips of steel and used the bellhousing to drill holes in the plates and then holes where the links on my engine stand would line up.

Rick

[jim lee]

When I pulled mine, I used an engine stand to hold it when I pulled it apart. Kinda' spooky. This is what I had built to reassemble it and I liked it a lot better.


-jim lee

[Carter]

When I pulled mine, I used an engine stand to hold it when I pulled it apart. Kinda' spooky. This is what I had built to reassemble it and I liked it a lot better.


-jim lee

Great looking engine stand, I like that, think I'll make one to keep on hand. Thanks

[Chris P]

Jim,

That is a great looking stand. Thanks for posting the pics. I notice that you still have the original style short exhaust pipe extension with swivel bolts.

-Chris

[Kaegi]

I'm not sure what you mean by "tabs". Are they part of the engine block or part of the engine stand?

I just pulled the 230 from my '54 M37, and had it mounted on an engine stand with the usual four hole plate. This stand came with four heavy links, which are about four inches in length with a hole at each end (perhaps something like these are the "tabs"?) I bolted one end of two of the links to the plate on the engine stand, adjusted them as needed, and then bolted the flywheel end of the engine block to the other end of the links, using some long grade 8 bolts and spacers as needed. The upper two holes on the back of the engine block where the clutch bellhousing bolts up lined up with the plate and did not need the links.

that's how its done! plenty strong

[Kaegi]

if you mean the lower bellhousing mounting holes they are plenty strong. the Chrysler castings are very high quality tough stuff. remember these are not chevies or fords. ;/)