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Charles - thanks for helping us with the distributor rebuild. First, the distributor was stuck in the block by a dry oil ring seal-beleive it or not. The clunking noise was a bit of slop along the shaft where the retainer ring hit the housing. The dist rotated easily but would not come straight out. We spray some PB into that crack and wham - out it came no problems.
We had purchased the complete engine fel-pro kit from NAPA. The NAPA guy confirmed that only the kit is available - the pieces are not. So we found the main dist seal in the box. We cleaned the coil, inside housing, everything. We wire wheel'd the mounting plate before installing the electronic ignition kit from you. Once you told us that the adjustment screw does rotate!!!! the plate fell right into place. We filled the shaft oil reservior on the side of the dist (screw plug) and added a few drops to the shaft felt on the end. The assembled dist plugged right back into the engine.
The only thing we could not figure was how to eliminate the radio filter because it contains the cannon plug pin that makes the connection to the #12 dist wire? We do not have any pins like that to keep that cannon connection. Is there something we could solder together?
Distributor Rebuild Q?
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MSeriesRebuild
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Re: Distributor Rebuild Q?
Simple, pull a new wire from the + terminal of the coil all the way through the cannon plug assembly to the douglas connecter about a foot back from the cannon plug. Reassemble the cannon plug & it looks just like always. You then have 1 solid lead all the way from the ignition switch to the coil.knattrass wrote:Charles - thanks for helping us with the distributor rebuild. First, the distributor was stuck in the block by a dry oil ring seal-beleive it or not. The clunking noise was a bit of slop along the shaft where the retainer ring hit the housing. The dist rotated easily but would not come straight out. We spray some PB into that crack and wham - out it came no problems.
We had purchased the complete engine fel-pro kit from NAPA. The NAPA guy confirmed that only the kit is available - the pieces are not. So we found the main dist seal in the box. We cleaned the coil, inside housing, everything. We wire wheel'd the mounting plate before installing the electronic ignition kit from you. Once you told us that the adjustment screw does rotate!!!! the plate fell right into place. We filled the shaft oil reservior on the side of the dist (screw plug) and added a few drops to the shaft felt on the end. The assembled dist plugged right back into the engine.
The only thing we could not figure was how to eliminate the radio filter because it contains the cannon plug pin that makes the connection to the #12 dist wire? We do not have any pins like that to keep that cannon connection. Is there something we could solder together?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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MSeriesRebuild
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
Unless one has a specific need for the noise filter, it's best to remove it. Reason is a significantly hotter spark results, it's also one less component in the system to fail & leave you stranded. We started removing them from distributors we rebuild a good while back, saw improvement right away, when we got electronic ignition modules, we saw an even better improvement in spark at the plugs. If you need it, use it, if you don't, you're better off without it.gwalker wrote:Why is it necessary to remove the noise filter at all?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Yes. It's only required if you're using a radio. It eliminates most of the static created by the ignition system. Your truck will definately get a better spark without it. You may also annoy neighbors who listen to AM radio or watch TV without cable. Your engine static will be picked up by both types of receivers. If you plan to operate any HF radio equipment (including a CB radio), a good RF filter is essential unless you love trying to copy a signal through tons of static.
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