Once again on a quest to figure out what I have on my truck. My generator to Regulator cable is about 3 ft. long and has straight fittings on both ends; My regulator has the fitting facing out. I have an NOS cable that is shorter and has a 90 on one end, it is too short, but seems to fit if I turn the regulator with the fittings facing in towards the engine.
I cannot read the tag on the generator, so I am not 100% sure what amperage it is.
So, do the regulator fitting face in? or, what cable do I need? The old one works, but is a bit brittle, and all the other wiring is new.
Generator/regulator cable?
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Generator/regulator cable?
DA Supply Weenie
President Michigan Military Technical & Historical Society Museum
http://www.mimths.org
1942 Ford GPW
1942 Chrysler Fire Pump
1943 Hudson Invader
1944 WC-52
1951 M100
1952 M-37
1985 Dodge W-150 (Ex-Air Force line truck)
President Michigan Military Technical & Historical Society Museum
http://www.mimths.org
1942 Ford GPW
1942 Chrysler Fire Pump
1943 Hudson Invader
1944 WC-52
1951 M100
1952 M-37
1985 Dodge W-150 (Ex-Air Force line truck)
Re: Generator/regulator cable?
Hi Chris,
The regulator connections face out toward the fender. The shorter new cable you're talking about is for a Jeep application, I believe. I know John at Midwest had the correct cable, you might want to check with him. The outer rubber jacket on the cable is usually what cracks to hell and looks like crap, but usually the inner cables are fine. I've been meaning to look into how to remove the cracked outer rubber skin and apply a new shrink-wrap layer in it's place to make it look new again. But I just haven't had the time. The shrink-wrap is available, I just need to look into how to remove the connectors on the ends.
Be careful if you install the shorter cable. Remember the engine does move and the regulator does not.....so there needs to be some slack. Otherwise bad things happen.
regards,
bob
The regulator connections face out toward the fender. The shorter new cable you're talking about is for a Jeep application, I believe. I know John at Midwest had the correct cable, you might want to check with him. The outer rubber jacket on the cable is usually what cracks to hell and looks like crap, but usually the inner cables are fine. I've been meaning to look into how to remove the cracked outer rubber skin and apply a new shrink-wrap layer in it's place to make it look new again. But I just haven't had the time. The shrink-wrap is available, I just need to look into how to remove the connectors on the ends.
Be careful if you install the shorter cable. Remember the engine does move and the regulator does not.....so there needs to be some slack. Otherwise bad things happen.

regards,
bob
Re: Generator/regulator cable?
I actually have two of the short cables, one came from Midwest, both have packaging that says G-741 on them and 1950's mfg dates. So the longer cable with straight ends is correct?
I guess I will have to call John up and see what he says, maybe I can send this cable back and get the correct one.
I guess I will have to call John up and see what he says, maybe I can send this cable back and get the correct one.
DA Supply Weenie
President Michigan Military Technical & Historical Society Museum
http://www.mimths.org
1942 Ford GPW
1942 Chrysler Fire Pump
1943 Hudson Invader
1944 WC-52
1951 M100
1952 M-37
1985 Dodge W-150 (Ex-Air Force line truck)
President Michigan Military Technical & Historical Society Museum
http://www.mimths.org
1942 Ford GPW
1942 Chrysler Fire Pump
1943 Hudson Invader
1944 WC-52
1951 M100
1952 M-37
1985 Dodge W-150 (Ex-Air Force line truck)
Re: Generator/regulator cable?
Hi Chris,
As far as I know the longer cable with the straight ends is correct. Seems it would have been smarter if they used a cable with a 90 degree bend at the regulator, but they didn't.
regards,
bob
As far as I know the longer cable with the straight ends is correct. Seems it would have been smarter if they used a cable with a 90 degree bend at the regulator, but they didn't.
regards,
bob
Re: Generator/regulator cable?
I was told By John at Midwest you can no longer find the straight cable so you have to use the replacement cable with the 90
Gerry
53 M37
53 M37
Re: Generator/regulator cable?
The cable with the 90 degree on the regulator end is the late cable and you will notice that the part number on the box shows up in the 34P late manual. In order to install it, you have to put the cable on the regulator, loosen the lock collar and rotate the cable down to meet the generator. Once lined up, tighten the lock collar back up. You will most likely need to remove the cable from the regulator and clock the generator end the same way. For what ever reason, they did not line them up properly at the factory before packaging. The cable is long enough and will fit once the clocking has been done.
John
John
Re: Generator/regulator cable?
Thanks John!
DA Supply Weenie
President Michigan Military Technical & Historical Society Museum
http://www.mimths.org
1942 Ford GPW
1942 Chrysler Fire Pump
1943 Hudson Invader
1944 WC-52
1951 M100
1952 M-37
1985 Dodge W-150 (Ex-Air Force line truck)
President Michigan Military Technical & Historical Society Museum
http://www.mimths.org
1942 Ford GPW
1942 Chrysler Fire Pump
1943 Hudson Invader
1944 WC-52
1951 M100
1952 M-37
1985 Dodge W-150 (Ex-Air Force line truck)
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Re: Generator/regulator cable?
Excellent input for the cable installation John.
Bert
Bert
1952 M37 W/W Rebuild @ 59% complete
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
NRA Life Member
NRA Cert. Personal Protection Pistol Instructor
NRA Cert. RSO
Class III RSO/KCR
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
NRA Life Member
NRA Cert. Personal Protection Pistol Instructor
NRA Cert. RSO
Class III RSO/KCR
Re: Generator/regulator cable?
The rubber jacket on the regulator to generator cable has no real function other than abrasion relief.
I stripped the cracked stuff off and used it as a bare brass braid covering for over 20 years with no problems. I initially gave it a bit of polish and clear poly so it looked good.
The ends are soft-soldered on and a bit tough to remove and replace without screwing up the two conductors within.
All the sealed generators were the 25-Amp models. The 40-Amp generators (never used on the G741) has the same Bendix plug arrangement, but is not waterproof, it's air cooled.
PoW
I stripped the cracked stuff off and used it as a bare brass braid covering for over 20 years with no problems. I initially gave it a bit of polish and clear poly so it looked good.
The ends are soft-soldered on and a bit tough to remove and replace without screwing up the two conductors within.
All the sealed generators were the 25-Amp models. The 40-Amp generators (never used on the G741) has the same Bendix plug arrangement, but is not waterproof, it's air cooled.
PoW