Towbar or Trailer? A Penny For Your Thoughts.

[Tim Powell]

Hey Crew.
Being a Truckdriver for over 35 years this is probably a dumb question but here goes. What are your honest feelings about towing a M-37 on the ground with a towbar vs trailering your rig? I'm thinking about buying a new heavy-duty trailer but the cost of the trailer considering the "use time" of the trailer has me stumped. Anybody ever have a custom trailer built? Anybody have a favorite brand or manufacturer?
Just a "penny for your thoughts".

[T. Highway]

Hi Tim,

I bought a Hudson equipment trailer (10,000 pound gross weight capacity) with a 16' low deck. This trailer has served me well over the years and tows better than most that I have had. The M37 fits on there perfectly.

Make sure to double check the axle ratings before you purchase any trailer, don't just assume the sales person is being straight forward with you.

Bert

[Tim Powell]

Thanks Bert!!
I know what you mean about doubling checking! I'll check out Hudson Trailers. Thank You!

[tbone1004]

There was an episode on Xtreme 4x4 a while back that discussed building your own custom gooseneck trailer. The episodes are available to watch on their website.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/XT ... towing-101
I think that's the right one.

[skinnedknuckles]

I prefer trailering as opposed to flat towing. You don't have to worry; about wearing out a set of NDT's, damaging drive train parts at speeds that they were not designed for, lighting issues ( side marker,stop, tail, turn ) and quite frankly, with some of the drivers out there , I would rather them hit my homemade overbuilt trailer first with 1/4" fenders 3/8"x 6" C channel tongue, 42,000 lb capacity lunette eye and heavy iron through out , than any of my toys that I put on it . Like Odd ball said on Kellys Heros when talking about his Sherman tanks "It gives you an edge" . And you can haul your next project home and make the lady of the house happy hauling things for her, it gives you points

Paul
Turning wrenches and welding stuff together on big iron for almost 30 years here in Wisconsin, yesh I feel old

[Tim Powell]

Thanks T-bone & Paul!
I watched the video and know all the things they say to be true.
Paul, I like the way you think on the added protection by running into the trailer rather than the truck!
We might have a winner!

[kelley]

Tim,
I recommend a goose neck trailer with a fold down hitch in the bed of your truck. With the goose neck the load is transfered closer to the center of the truck and you can back it into very tight places. Another advantage to using a trailer is having electric brakes.

Kelley

[skinnedknuckles]

Tim, Kelleys' right about electric brakes, that's the only way to go. If you do get a "bumper pull" trailer stay away from surge brakes they are a pain to maintain and they are more costly than the electrics to repair especially if you have to do anything with the tongue mounted master cylinder assembly. Also with electrics make sure that it has a break away brake system which is required in most states and they are just a good idea regardless.
Paul

[Tim Powell]

Thanks Guys!
I'd love to have a goose-neck but right now that's not an option.
As far as the brakes I have surge brakes on my big boat trailer and they are in fact a royal pain in my rear!

[Hemiman]

Flat towing isn't that bad. Recommend pulling the rear axles and replacing with front flanges. (The ones you kept when you installed locking front hubs).

The castor, or lack there of, may make the steering not freely return to center. I never had that problem, but others have. The fix seems to be bungees tensioning both sides of the steering wheel.

[Brett]

Tim
When you start shopping for a trailer, you should be looking for a skid-steer trailer. Just about every trailer dealer should have a couple on their lot. If you start talking about car trailers they will steer you to ones with the #3500 axles. As a rule of thumb on trailer axles 5 lugs are never rated more than #3500 each, 6 lug #5200, and 8 lug #7000. If you're buying a new trailer, i'd go with the two #7000 axles. The difference in price is pretty small, but it gives you better options in tires down the road. I priced a skid-steer trailer from the guys who build trailers for us at work a couple of years ago. it was $3500 for an 18' with two #7000 axles, electric brakes on both axles, and new 10ply tires.

Brett

[tbone1004]

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/grq/3892454186.html

There's one relatively local for fairly cheap. 5200lb axles but with an m37 they'll be fine. $3k

http://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/grd/3949888355.html

$3400 but gets 7000lb axles and you lose slide in ramps for fold up.

http://ottumwa.craigslist.org/fod/3826263905.html
$2700, homebuilt not factory, but has 7k axles with brakes and has sides and wider ramps.

All in/around your part of Iowa according to craigslist. Good luck

[JimC]

Tow bar has a tendency to take the tow vehicle wherever the 37 wants to go. Particularly if doing a sudden stop.

[Tim Powell]

Hey Crew.
You Guys always amaze me with your advice and willingness to help. Last night at about 02:00 my Lori and I had a long talk about what this trailer might been used for besides the "M". I own a 6K forktruck. A Taylor-Dunn electric utility cart. A 20 hp Wheel-Horse with mower deck & 2 stage snowblower. My Military air-cary. Too many toys yet?????????? Anyway some of these units don't like ramps! I've turned my attention to a tilt skid-loader or forklift trailer. Full tilt no stationary part of the forward bed. I also do not want any type of dove/beaver-tail. I simply don't like them. (It's a trucker thing) I'll keep looking, I've got more time than money! The right trailer will find me!
I see someone had posted abut a tow-bar. My Lori has already ruled that option out! (I'm really the boss around here. )

equipment-forklift.png (43.26 KiB) Viewed 2824 times

This one would be perfect!

[Rich]

Tim,
I have a Hudson 5 ton deck over trailer to carry my M-37. It has 2, 5 ton axles. It uses 15 inch tires. Although it comes with 8 ply D rated tires It needed to be up graded to 10 ply load range E tires. There are no reasonably priced U.S. made 15" trailer tires. I use Carlisle tires. I was told by a friend who has the same trailer and haul in Texas, to only inflate the load range E tires to 70 psi cold, even though the trailer sales man said I should inflate them to the Max inflation of 80 psi. When the tires warmed up after an hour of driving on North Carolina roads in April the pressure was at 80 psi. If I started at 80 psi it would have been at 90 psi. This is one reason why trailer tires blow out. Yes the tires are made in China The Carlisle Co has the "made in china" name in small letters on the bead.
I also have been told, that trailer tires have a life of 3 years wether they are used or not. I don't have any sources to back this up though. If you buy a trailer that has fenders it may be a tight fit between them for your front tires of your M-37. But you can use 16" LT tires and have more of a selection of U.S. made tires for your trailer.
The Hudson deckover trailer weights 4000 lbs + M-37 6000Lbs = 10,0000 lbs (rough Estimate) To be safe you should have a Min 3/4 ton truck to tow with. You may also have to upgrade your hitch on your truck. To a hitch that is at least 14,000lbs. The stock hitch on my Dodge 3/4 ton truck was 6000lbs 10,000lbs with load leveling device. It was alittle close in weight.
One other thing to note Hudson trailer lists their trailer with its load capacity 5 ton. Not 5 ton minus the weight of the trailer 10,000lbs minus
4,000lbs=6000lbs
load capacity. Other trailer manufacturers do this. That would mean you would have to buy a 14000lbs trailer minus 4000lbs to get 10000lbs load capacity.
Rich Szklany