Low compression

[MSeriesRebuild]

Bad choice of fuel line selection on the fuel pump pictured. Push lock hose and fittings should never be used as gas lines. Too much risk that the hose could slip or be pulled off the fittings which would likely cause a fire like you read about if that were to happen. Pulsing action of the fuel pump will force them off. Much safer to use clamped assemblies for fuel line applications.

The check valve assemblies supplied in the then-now rebuild kits are far superior to NOS. The NOS stuff is not compatible with today's gasoline, especially if it is an ethanol blend; then there is the age and deterioration factor with NOS also. Then-Now stuff is compatible with current fuels, the only source of fuel pump parts that are as far as I know.

[Tuko]

That box is the early model ignition filter

[T. Highway]

Hi Jim Lee,

The pictures are great of your kids helping with your truck, they will cherish the memories forever.

Sounds like you need a new exhaust manifold. One word of caution, if you change out the intake and exhaust manifolds check the mounting surfaces to be sure that they are on the same plane with a straight edge. If they are not they will need to be ground by a machine shop. Refer to your TM and it will explain it better.

If I understand your question about the winch correctly, the nuts on the bottom of the frame rail extensions are welded / staked to the rails.

Bert

[MSeriesRebuild]

Another issue with the exhaust manifold; it is attached with brass bushings and tapered nuts on the 2 end ports, 4 total are used. If these are not used and installed in the correct configuration, the ears will break every time due to repeated heating, expansion/contraction. I see many that do not have these in place; also repaired many broken manifolds. We have repaired some extensive breaks, depends on the thickness of the casting after years of use, most are indeed repairable though. Nice if you have all the pieces, but even that isn't a necessity with most. Replacing the stud you mentioned as broken is generally a minor issue. Using a brass replacement stud and nut is smart, as heat and rust will not seize it. Makes adjusting easy.

[jim lee]

Hey thanks for the comments!

The rubber fuel line is the way the truck came to us. This is one of the fuel issues I'm hoping to clear up when we put this back together.

As for manifolds its the intake I'm sweating now. The exhaust is fixed. Well except for the busted off screw for the heat riser. But I'm not sure that's going to be a big problem. It takes pliers to move the heat riser as it is so I may just move it closed and call it good.

Here's today's dilemma..


This is the coupling that was frozen to the winch end of the PTO shaft. The shaft is now all smoothed out, the coupling has been cleaned up and everything fits wonderful again. Except I can't get it to go back together! The U-joint won't quite fit. You can't get the cir-clips to fit back in their slots. I guess somewhere along the line of disassembling this bit, the ends of the coupler castings got bent inwards a little.

Not sure how to proceed here and I'm open to any ideas.

-jim lee

[52 M-42]

My suggestion would be to take the coupling to a drive line shop. They can probably fix that quickly.

Would looking at a "restored by the book" truck help you figure some things out? I don't really want to drive all the way to Anacortes and back in my truck, but maybe we could meet half way somewhere.

A couple of weeks ago I drove up to Arlington Airport for the fly in. Maybe we could meet in Stanwood or Arlington if you are interested.

Let me know.

52 M-42

[MSeriesRebuild]

Hey thanks for the comments!

The rubber fuel line is the way the truck came to us. This is one of the fuel issues I'm hoping to clear up when we put this back together.

As for manifolds its the intake I'm sweating now. The exhaust is fixed. Well except for the busted off screw for the heat riser. But I'm not sure that's going to be a big problem. It takes pliers to move the heat riser as it is so I may just move it closed and call it good.

Here's today's dilemma..


This is the coupling that was frozen to the winch end of the PTO shaft. The shaft is now all smoothed out, the coupling has been cleaned up and everything fits wonderful again. Except I can't get it to go back together! The U-joint won't quite fit. You can't get the cir-clips to fit back in their slots. I guess somewhere along the line of disassembling this bit, the ends of the coupler castings got bent inwards a little.

Not sure how to proceed here and I'm open to any ideas.

-jim lee

You bent the yoke ears when pressing the new joint in. This is usually caused by burrs, or other imperfections in the yoke joint bores that result in the joints being hard to press because of ear bore misalignment. The hard press makes you exert more pressure trying to press it in which results in the problem you have. Remove the joint, misalignment will likely make that difficult also; but once you have it out, realign the ears, clear the bores and snap ring grooves. Install a snap ring before pressing in the joint to be sure they fit nicely in the grooves. Once you have these issues solved, the joint will press in easy with minimal pressing effort, snap rings will fit as they should, and the joint will be free to flex. If you are using newer joints that have needle rollers, a needle could have fallen out of place and be laying down in the bottom of the cap. This usually results in popping the bottom out of the cap, so not likely in your case.

[jim lee]

I'm pretty sure the yoke ears were bent when pressing the new joint in. What happened is that I got the wrong U-joint. It was a really tight and then it just didn't quite fit. I wasn't watching too close because I was figuring this would be straight forward operation. After it became clear things were not going to work, I had the new U-Joint pressed back out, took it back to my shop and lined it up with the original. It was about 1/16" too long end to end. So, I cleaned up the old U-Joint and pressed it in myself. This is when I found the yokes were bent. These are the old bushing type. No needles to drop out and crush.

***********

No need to drive your machine to Anacortes, but if you would like to visit, that could be fun. (Use a "real" car though) I'm at the shop most every day working on this and that. Sometimes I have the kids helping. If you make it I'll snap pix and post 'em on this thread. Your idea about going to a driveline shop is just the ticket. I'm not set up for this kind of task and I bet they could straighten it out in a snap.

***********

As for the brass exhaust bushings.. I'm going to have to look into this, I'm not sure if there were any when I pulled the engine down. I think those parts are still at the machine shop with the block.

Thanks again for the comments, I really appreciate 'em!

-jim lee

[jim lee]

Took the coupling to Driveline Service in Bellingham. Bang, tap, clunk-- They had it fixed in about 10 minutes.

"There you go."

"How much?"

"Don't worry about it."

What a service!

**************

Engine builder called, I pick up the engine tomorrow AM! Actually, he offered to drop it off if I could find a tire to set it on in his pickup.

Dropped the generator & starter off to be rebuilt this evening.

-jim lee

[jim lee]

The motor finally came back!

We've been cleanig, fixing and sorting parts. Buying stuff and trying to get the project organized.



Table #1. Things that need work, repair or cleanup.



Table #2 Things that are ready for assembly. The dog bed was used to cushion the motor when it was being hauled home. We have a table top engine stand in the works.



Table #3 Things arriving from vendors. Tools, parts, fun stuff!



New/old headlight switch. Its going to take some time figuring out how to actually turn on the headlights.



Testing the tubing crimping tool. This first step looks like it'll work great for attaching rubber fuel lines. What this is is the first step to a double flare crimping.



Box #1 Scraps! All the bits we're planning on binning.



Box #2 Things for tomorrow's parts run. Some are examples for new parts. Some need to be dropped off for sand blasting.



Inside the "waterproof" distributer. How in the world was this machine running?


Slowly bits are being cleaned up and are going back on the engine. Its nice to have somewhere to put everything. Try to do -something- everyday to drag the project forward.

-jim lee

[jim lee]

MSeriesRebuild, These brass washers you speak of. I'm finding them in the box. Not found the tapered nuts yet, but I"m still digging. How do the tapered nuts and the brass washers go together? Taper toward washer?

Thanks!

-jim

[m-37Bruce]

Jim, I think the taper is on the outside, that's the way I'm remembering it?

[MSeriesRebuild]

MSeriesRebuild, These brass washers you speak of. I'm finding them in the box. Not found the tapered nuts yet, but I"m still digging. How do the tapered nuts and the brass washers go together? Taper toward washer?

Thanks!

-jim

The concave side of the brass faces outward toward the end of the stud. You should be looking at the concave side when they are installed. The tapered end of the nut goes on the stud first and into the concave washer. We have tapered nuts if you don't find yours.

[jim lee]

Well I find 3 washers and 3 nuts. I'm wondering if it had four when I got it. I'm going to have to search around and see if anyone has anything like this locally.

Fingers crossed!

-jim lee

[MSeriesRebuild]

Well I find 3 washers and 3 nuts. I'm wondering if it had four when I got it. I'm going to have to search around and see if anyone has anything like this locally.

Fingers crossed!

-jim lee

These are specialty items for these engines. The ones we have, we had custom made. I keep them on the shelf all the time, as many of the engines we see are missing some or all.