Low compression

[jim lee]

Engine finally mounted on an engine stand. Again it was tougher than expected. I find these engines don't really fit on modern engine stands. In the end we had to mount the attachment plate sideways to allow the arms to fit.

I now know what everyone means when they talk about not having time to work on this stuff. Making time is tough!


The kids starting to pull the engine down. I still have to break most of the bolts free for them. But sometimes they can get them themselves, that's an improvement.



Showing Shelby how to pull off the fuel pump.



The spun #4 rod bearing. This is the one that let go. I assume the rod is toast but the crank -might- be able to be saved. Finger's crossed here.



Pulling the manifolds. Its challanging to find things that two or three people can do at the same time on the same engine. Oil pan was good, lots of space and bolts to spread around. The manifolds had lots of challenges as well.



This is about as far as we're going to get. I don't have the wrench to take off the front pulley mount. So, we're going to send it to the machine shop like this.

One thing though, how does one pull off the oil pickup pipe? I was afraid to torque on it too much seeing I might bend it..

We found a local shop that specializes in old flathead engine rebuilding. The plan is to get it magna fluxed to see if its cracked or not. Generally get an idea what we're going to need to get this thing back into shape or are we going to need to start looking for a new long block.

Thats where everything sits today.

-jim lee

[MSeriesRebuild]

Get the piston and rod assemblies balanced on gram scales; and the rotating assembly rotationally balanced. You'll never regret getting that done. Some so called builders say you don't need that. If that is what you hear, my advice is to look for another machinist, you aren't getting the best job. Another thing, many will tell you will never stop the oil dripping; that is BS to the max; we have built many non leakers. We never let the machine shop reassemble anything, we do that in house.

[jim lee]

I asked him if he would balance it. He told me "Of course! If you don't, you'll have a shaker." I got the feeling that if I didn't want it balanced he wouldn't be all that interested in working on it.

This is the guy I was told to use. And like I said, he's just down the rod a bit from where I live.

http://www.davetatom.com/index.html

Hope it works out..

-jim lee

[T. Highway]

This is about as far as we're going to get. I don't have the wrench to take off the front pulley mount. So, we're going to send it to the machine shop like this.

One thing though, how does one pull off the oil pickup pipe? I was afraid to torque on it too much seeing I might bend it..

-jim lee

Hi Jim,

I used a large adjustable wrench on the front drive nut and a large dead blow hammer to knock it loose. You will also need a puller to remove the hub from the crank. You will need a socket for the installation of the drive nut later on.

The oil pickup has (NPT) pipe threads so it can be unscrewed, just grab it near the base with a pipe wrench or vise grip. These are thread sealed on so it may be snug at first.

Bert

[MSeriesRebuild]

I asked him if he would balance it. He told me "Of course! If you don't, you'll have a shaker." I got the feeling that if I didn't want it balanced he wouldn't be all that interested in working on it.

This is the guy I was told to use. And like I said, he's just down the rod a bit from where I live.

http://www.davetatom.com/index.html

Hope it works out..

-jim lee

Honesty here, "hoping it works out"; well that seems a bleak way of looking at it to me. You are leaving the door wide open. It really is nothing to me of course, so please don't assume I'm trying to get into your business with any comments. I've seen so many get screwed because they didn't ask enough detailed questions prior to giving someone the job. Did you inquire exactly what he meant when he said he would balance it? What will his balancing procedure include? Will the piston and rod assemblies be balanced on gram scales? Will he balance the rotating assembly? Has he asked for your pressure plate so it can be attached to the flywheel during rotational balancing? It must be attached to the flywheel as it will run in order to achieve a true balanced assembly. It will be marked as to where balanced point is so you can install it correctly when you do the final clutch installation. That one question would make or break a deal for me. It's a good test; if he doesn't ask for that pressure plate and mounting bolts along with an explanation of why he needs it; think twice; getting a true balance job done the correct way isn't going to happen.

"Balancing" an engine is much like the word "restoration." To some it means a rattle can paint job, while to others it means a totally new truck with no part left untouched. Bottom line; you need to know what a good balancing job consist of, then you need to compare what you know with what your guy intends to do. If notes don't closely coincide; we'll I think you see where I'm coming from.

On another issue, have you discussed how he will approach the valve seats? Certainly exhaust seats should be replaced as they are the ones that take the major beating from using unleaded gas. They should all be replaced with high nickel seats so as to be compatible with today's gasoline. Don't buy the line that the intake seats are machined into the block and can't be replaced. It is true intake seats are originally machined into the block deck; but they can be replaced by counter boring and pressing in a new, current production seat. It is certainly the right thing to do to replace them during a major rebuild. Gasoline is getting worse by the day, so leaving that out is not a wise practice.

Good luck.

[jim lee]

I don't worry about people trying to get in my business online so blast away. Heck, I put it on the net for all and sundry to see. I do read everything people are typing 'cause they all are trying to help. And I really appreciate it 'cause its been about 30 years since I've rebuilt an engine, all the memories are quite faded.

I've not asked many questions of the machinist because I've not had much chance to. He was recommended to me by a local WWII truck restorer. Basically told me he takes all his stuff to him and likes his work. One thing I did pick up on was that the machine shop has more work than they could handle. We'll see how things look when I go meet with the guy. I'm not too worried about this rebuild 'cause really, its just a toy. Also, its not like if he ruins this engine there's no more out there in the world. I figure it'll all work out in the end.

So thanks for he comments, I really do appreciate them! Having a forum to ask about this stuff is WAY better than the old way of bumping around in the dark all the time.

-jim lee

[jim lee]

Mystery part..


This fell out of the motor block today when I was rotating it. I don't know what it is or where it fell from. Looks kinda like a lifter but they are all still in the motor. Maybe something to do with the oil pump? Help? Anyone?

Thanks!

-jim lee

[T. Highway]

Jim,

On the left hand side of the block you removed a square plug that this was behind, you probably pulled a spring from the same cap. (Located just above the oil pan) What did I win for guessing this????

Plunger, oil Pressure relief valve part number CC-677263
Spring number CC-619057
Gasket number 7702587
Cap number 7702599

You should invest in TM9-1840A, shoot me a PM if you need one.

Bert

[jim lee]

That's right! I remember when we pulled that off and I saw the spring. I thought "This looks like trouble". Didn't see a ball bearing in there though. I bet that fell out and took off under something.

Springs, things that look like sliding valve things and possibly ball bearings. I'm betting this is the oil pressure regulator we've uncovered? Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I wonder what way it goes back in? Must be a picture somewhere.

-jim lee

[T. Highway]

Jim,

There is no ball in the assembly, I did a typo. You are holding the valve in the correct direction for the install.

Bert

[jim lee]

Thanks for the name of the manual, I found it : http://ia701209.us.archive.org/12/items ... -1840A.pdf

More questions..

How do you guys clean these things? Its not like I have a hot tank in my shop. Even a solvent tank would be nice. How are people cleaning up these old grease-balls?

And, once clean, rebuilt and running like clockwork.. What color? I know WWII Dodge engines tend to be painted light grey but I notice a lot of M37 engines seem to be olive green. Were they green in the 50s?

Thanks!

-jim lee

[powerwagontim]

Jim,
I usually go after them with a thin putty knife, a flat bladed screwdriver, small toothbrush style wire brushes and paint thinner. If you are taking it to a machine shop, just scrape off the big chunks and let them deal with it. Otherwise, its just a tedious job of scraping, brushing, wiping with thinner soaked rags until its clean. After its as clean as you can get it, start at the top and spray it with brakkleen or carb cleaner and wash it down. You will be amazed how grungy the carb cleaner is as it flows down where you thought it was clean. Then wipe it down again and paint the color of choice!

[m-37Bruce]

I think the OD color came at the depot level rebuild, from the factory they were a silver grey. If you post your question over on Gordon page; http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com you might get a more definitive answer? Carter would know this, but he is away from his computer for another day or so after his back surgery.

[52 M-42]

The original engine from the factory was silver. Replacement engines were the same color as the truck. Since it is your truck, you get to paint it whatever color you want.

I've attached a couple of pictures of my engine so you can see what a silver engine looks like. I painted mine silver because I tried to "remanufacture" my truck as new from the factory with a 0 mileage reading.

[vtdeucedriver]

DAMN