Anybody Out There Making Their Own Wiring Harnesses ??

[w30bob]

Hi Guys,

I've been picking up a few NOS harness for the rebuild of my M when I find them for cheap, but the more I learn about military harnesses in general the more I'm leaning toward making them myself. Reason being that although the NOS harnesses are new I have a sneaky suspicion that the covering on the wires is going to get brittle and start cracking within a few years of me installing them (although they are NEW....they are also OLD). And I only want to re-wire my truck once.

So I'm thinking I might make all new harnesses using the NOS harnesses as guides. I found sources for the 4 types of Douglas connectors, just happened to "find" a Daniels crimping tool at work today, and the price of wire isn't very hard to swallow. So now I only need to decide on the wire I want to use. I've found a few sources selling the mil-spec Prestolite wire, but I don't know if that's any better than what my NOS harnesses are made of. I'm thinking today's automotive wire in 14 AWG in black is the way to go. That stuff can take a beating under the hood of cars and seems to last forever assuming you don't lay it on your exhaust manifold.

I realize I can just buy new wiring harnesses from the guys in Maine.....but I can make them for a lot cheaper and think it will be a fun thing to do. So if anyone has gone the route of making your own harnesses can you share any lessons you learned....good or bad? And which wire did you go with? Or if I'm oversimplifying this whole thing let me know that too.

thanks,
bob

[T. Highway]

Hi Bob,

I know that Cal_Gary made his own harness using a Painless wiring kit. I know several others made their own also but the names escape me right now.

Bert

[Carter]

Years ago I made one using a NOS M35 harness as a component source. I cut/unwrapped the tape from both the old M37 and the M35 ones. Using the old Dodge one as a guide but modified to include turn signals I remade the entire front and rear sections as well as all the little harnesses, headlight, dist. ect. used the Douglas hardware from the M35 worked well but had to cut off all the crimp on tips, drill them out then solder them on to the "new" harness I was building, also used the aluminum ID number tags from both and even had to buy some new ones from Saturn Surplus http://saturnsurplus.com/electrical/46491.htm but it all worked out. Took many hours, but back then I had more time than money. Drove that truck for years before I sold it and never had any trouble with the wiring I had done.

[w30bob]

Hi Carter,

Thanks for that link. I was looking for those little aluminum tags and knew I saw them somewhere.......but couldn't remember where. And I've been thru the Saturn Surplus site with a fine toothed comb.....or so I thought. Soldering on the ends is also a great idea.

regards,
bob

[PoW]

Making them yourself can be rewarding & efficient, but it all depends on your expertise.

Your choice of wire to use depends on several factors;

Expected temperature range..the OZ military rubber wire can remain flexible at minus incredible temps. Otherwise, why bother.

Overall diameter...if not very close to the original, it will be tough to insert into the rubber parts, or will slip around if too small.

Use of colors...don't . That is what the metal tags are for. Colored wiring in a G741 just looks hokey and unoriginal. Black is it.

A couple good things;

The "bullets" are the same for early or late systems. If you have new ones, you can easily just solder them rather than crimping because you need to use a "stab" crimp and those pliers are difficult to source. Also, as mentioned beforehand, you can easily solder used ones for re-use.

The use of Packard (rubber) terminals is perfectly acceptable over Douglas, as they are much easier to source, and come in a lot more styles for use. Examples are ignition, dimmer, stoplight, and accessory switches. Gauges and senders.

It is also possible to mix both types, as the female rubber will fit just fine in the Douglas shell for connections on gauges and splices.

BTW, the gold metal multipin connectors like on the headlight switch are known as Bendix connectors, not Cannon or Amphenol.

Dennis

[w30bob]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info. Good stuff.

Dennis.......you're right about the wire sizing. I recently noticed that there were different sized Douglas connectors for 14AWG and 16AWG. I believe the 16AWG was used on the M35 (maybe). I'd never use colored wires, except black.....that's just a no-brainer! I do have a "stab" crimper...I lucked out and found one at work, although nothing beats soldering for superior connection. But you're right....those crimpers are pricey if you have to buy one. I'll also stick with Douglas connectors, as that was what it came with originally....but your point about adapting between Douglas and Packard does make sense.

thanks again Guys,
bob

[majorhitt]

Hello Bob. I installed a NOS harness when I did my M. It came with all the tags looked good and so on. When I came to wire in the headlights,taillights,blackout lights and anything else that goes from the harness to what ever device, I looked at the purchase of pig tails . They were way too much $$. I picked up wire, shells, metal part whatever the name is, non adhesive electrical tape. I measured the tails I needed and proceeded to make my own tails. Ok sure solder sounds good, it made some of my ends stiff (stiff may be good in some places but not here). I picked up a crimping tool, it made my life easier. Sure if you want to remove it for some reason you can't. As mentioned solder could be drilled out. The long and short of it all is, they all came out OK, looks good and works just fine.To make a complete harness, you would have to have a full scale layout of the cable routing, and an old nasty old harness to do that would help along with where to make any splices if there are any in the harness. That is correct Bob non adhesive electrical tape. If you use the regular tape after a little time you'll see the goooy mess it makes.

[w30bob]

Hey Ed....great to hear from you!

Yes, I've seen the non-adhesive electrical tape advertised in a variety of places. I assume it stays on via friction. When I got my M last year I have to admit that I was a bit intimidated by the whole Douglas connector thing. But now that I've had time to absorb it I'm not too concerned. Looks pretty simple actually to make harnesses. My intent is to use a NOS harness as a guide and simply duplicate what's there, only with better wire. At least that's the plan.

You still planning to go to Jim Thorpe in March?

regards,
bob

[majorhitt]

Yes I'll be there. The way the tape holds together, Is you pull it tight while wrapping. The tape is overlapped with each overlap you cover about half the previous lap of tape at the end the way I did the finish was to stretch the tape and tie it back on it self. Does this make any sense? Try a small length for practice.