My PTO shifter shaft is dinged up a bit around the seal surfaces and also has some corrosion. AS a result I am getting more oil leakagee than I want.
Other than a new shaft does anyone have any ideas on how I might refurbish what I have? Speedi sleeves wont work as they are ( I think ) designed for rotary movement and would be too short for the linear travel. As well the shaft couldnt be installed if both ends were sleeved.
I think my only option is a new shaft, but wanted to solicit expertise from this group first. If so is anyone aware of a source or will I be headed to my local machine shop?
Thanks
PTO shifter shaft
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Shaft Replacement
I'm going to find myself in the same position once the old girl comes out of storage (I know - storing an M37 for the winter is a mortal sin
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I can't imagine that anything but replacing the shaft would work. My bet is that John at Midwest Military has them. He has everything under the sun (it seems). If not, try Sid Beck, A.B Linn or Bob Stahl at Veteran Vehicles.

I can't imagine that anything but replacing the shaft would work. My bet is that John at Midwest Military has them. He has everything under the sun (it seems). If not, try Sid Beck, A.B Linn or Bob Stahl at Veteran Vehicles.
You can trust your mother, but you can't trust your ground.
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- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
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Don't waste your $$ on an NOS shaft. It will rust before you get it installed good & the same issues are again at hand. The only permanent solution to this problem is to custom machine a shaft from stainless steel. It will be there for the long haul & never a pitting problem again to deal with. Every truck we do gets one if we go into the PTO. Same is true with the T/case shift shafts.
BTW, don't use NOS seals either, leaks won't stop. Invest in new production seal technology & stop the drips.
BTW, don't use NOS seals either, leaks won't stop. Invest in new production seal technology & stop the drips.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
If your shaft is a inch size( 5/8 3/4 7/8 ect )you can buy a crome rod for a hydro cly and have a machineshop make you a new one the crome will not rust and the rod is heat treated so I will not groove like a soft steel shaft....Phil in Mt 

Phil in Mt
41 m2-4, 42 m6, 42 g-506, 42 mb, 43 mb, 44gpw, 50 m38, 50 m75, 51 m38, 51 m37 halfbreed ,55 m38a1, 60 m170
62 m100, 69 m416
41 m2-4, 42 m6, 42 g-506, 42 mb, 43 mb, 44gpw, 50 m38, 50 m75, 51 m38, 51 m37 halfbreed ,55 m38a1, 60 m170
62 m100, 69 m416
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- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
The only problem with chrome is it's only a few thousandths of an inch thick on a heat treated shaft. The chrome will wear off in time, then the rust problem isn't far behind. I've seen this issue many times when we had heavy construction equipment. Stainless is the last fix you'll need as far as a rust issue goes.philin mt wrote:If your shaft is a inch size( 5/8 3/4 7/8 ect )you can buy a crome rod for a hydro cly and have a machineshop make you a new one the crome will not rust and the rod is heat treated so I will not groove like a soft steel shaft....Phil in Mt
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Drive Shaft, too?
Am I best off having a new drive shaft machined, too?
You can trust your mother, but you can't trust your ground.