Head Bolts

[pfrederi]

I am replacing my head gasket. The head is going to the machine shop for cleaning/resurfacing. i have teh copper spray and the Locktite high temp sealer.

Head bolts are expensive and there are 21 of them. There was a fair amount of rust on several of them which made them hard to remove. I will clean them and use a thread chaser. Is there anything I could/should use to reduce the corrosion in the future??? I use permatex never-seize on all the other bolts on her and my old tractors....but I do not think it would be a good idea here...or am I wrong

[MSeriesRebuild]

I am replacing my head gasket. The head is going to the machine shop for cleaning/resurfacing. i have teh copper spray and the Locktite high temp sealer.

Head bolts are expensive and there are 21 of them. There was a fair amount of rust on several of them which made them hard to remove. I will clean them and use a thread chaser. Is there anything I could/should use to reduce the corrosion in the future??? I use permatex never-seize on all the other bolts on her and my old tractors....but I do not think it would be a good idea here...or am I wrong

The Lock-Tite high temp thread sealer acts as an anti-seize & mild thread locker also. Using that alone will give great results.

[mattveeder]

I have to agree that the Lock tite hi temp sealer works great even to preserve your bolts.

[knattrass]

Same deal - some rusty, some oily depending on location. I cleaned mine up and wondered if it was worth spraying them with primer? Also, I imagine that the rust is down the threaded hole in the block - would a tap help clean out the bottom of the hole? Mine has been surfaced and cleaned. Next I have to wire wheel the valve/block. I also had the int/exh manifold surfaced and cleaned. I bought the NAPA FelPro complete gasket kit, got the carb/fuel pump rebuilt, plan on dropping the oil pan and cleaning the sump, might look at pulling the water pump. So much for putting my M back together!! I do know that the tapped head bolts have specific locations when you put them back in.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Same deal - some rusty, some oily depending on location. I cleaned mine up and wondered if it was worth spraying them with primer? Also, I imagine that the rust is down the threaded hole in the block - would a tap help clean out the bottom of the hole? Mine has been surfaced and cleaned. Next I have to wire wheel the valve/block. I also had the int/exh manifold surfaced and cleaned. I bought the NAPA FelPro complete gasket kit, got the carb/fuel pump rebuilt, plan on dropping the oil pan and cleaning the sump, might look at pulling the water pump. So much for putting my M back together!! I do know that the tapped head bolts have specific locations when you put them back in.

Chase those threads, it's a good idea, blow them out with compressed air after chasing.

By all means pull that water pump so you can access the coolant distribution tube. Remove it from the block & clean it well, likely some of the small openings near the back end of the tube will be partially if not completely clogged.

[KenInGA]

I don't believe you are supposed to use Locktite on head bolts as it will give false torque readings when you torque down the head. I could be wrong, though.

[MSeriesRebuild]

I don't believe you are supposed to use Locktite on head bolts as it will give false torque readings when you torque down the head. I could be wrong, though.

You are interpreting the product incorrectly, the Lock-Tite high-temp thread sealer is a product from the Lock-Tite line, but is not a thread locker typically known as Lock-Tite. NAPA sells an equivilent product called Permatex high-temp thread sealer. We've used it many years, it's the best product out there to use on head bolts.

[ELBUFO]

What is the procedure for removal and inspection of the water distribution tube. Are they made of steel or brass?, and if all corroded are replacements available, if so, where???
Every time I turn around I am finding things that are M37 specific. I've worked on a lot of engines,but the 230 is a new one to me.
Thanks...John

[Lifer]

Yes...replacement water distribution tubes are still available from NAPA and other fine automotive parts stores. Production on the flatheads continued clear into the '70s and parts stayed in production for at least another 10 years after that. The supply will dry up eventually, I'm sure, but they are available now if you need one.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Lifer, I hope you know something we don't here. I've never been able to get the first distribution tube from NAPA ever. I wish they were that easy to get as often they are bad & need replacement. Do you know a secret?
They have been a rare find for years other than take-outs. Sellers like AB Linn searched the NAPA system till it was completely exhausted or it was believed to be for many items. There could be a few strays still laying on the shelf somewhere I guess.

[Lifer]

Hmmm! I could have misspoken myself. The guy who is rebuilding my engine got one for it, but I'm not sure where. I'll check with the "old guy" at my local NAPA tomorrow and see what he says.

[knattrass]

Anyone have the cooling tube? Lifer if you find a NAPA part, that would be great. We are thinking of pulling the pump to take a look, but the tube has us worried and we don't want to monkey with it if there are no replacements.

[DJ]

I think I remember Midwest Mil. having water tubes . Am not sure anymore as I bought one on Ebay a while ago so I never called John. I would call John and ask him.


DJ

[mdog]

I just got a water distribution tube from Vintage Power Wagons for $50.00 about 2 months ago.