engine parts needed

[messge80]

I have a 1953 m37 with a 230 that is bad. I need to rebuild my whole engine where do I find the part ?

[m15256]

That would depend entirely on what is "bad" about your engine. All of the parts for the block itself are readily available as the 230 was quite a common engine. Some (most) of the accessories bolted to the block are specific to the military application. Do you live in an area where there is a reputable engine machine shop? Do you live in an area where there is a Military Vehicle Club you could join or ask advice from? Have you ever rebuilt an engine before? AB Lynn, VPW, and MWM all have engine parts. I imagine you can get pistons, rings etc from your local auto supply house.

If you have rebuilt an engine before you probably have enough experience to answer your own question. If you haven't it will be a long learning experience and in the end quite satisfying. Good luck.

[messge80]

I haven't gotten into the engine yet so I'm not entirely sure what is bad. There is a good engine machine shop in town, I haven't stopped there yet. I live in Tri-Cities, WA and I don't know if there is a military club, I will check all of the places you have suggested for parts. On another note, I see that you have an M56, I also have a '63 M56 that does not have the service body, has a flatbed. It runs and I will be selling it soon just incase you are interested or know anybody that is. Thanks

[Cal_Gary]

Your closest club is Idaho MVPA on the Idaho/Oregon border (unless you want to go to Seattle or Portland):

President: Bill Burmeister – #25844F
Caldwell, ID 83605 – (208) 454-5677

Newsletter Editor: Rhonda Burnmeister – #25844F
Caldwell, ID 83605 – (208) 454-5677

Meetings: 1st Monday of the month, 7 p.m. 705 Main St., Caldwell, ID.

Alex Gordon has an MV business there too, might help you with parts, and is a nice guy to deal with:
IdahoMotorPool@yahoo.com

Welcome aboard!
Gary

[rickv100]

Do you have the Technical Manual for the 230 engine? The 230 is common but it does lay it out in straightforward manner.

TM 9-1840A

It looks like someone posted this and other M37 manuals online.

http://www.imfmotorpool.com/files/TM9-1 ... clutch.pdf

Rick

[52 M-42]

messge80,

Don't forget there are a bunch of us M-37 / M-42 owners here in WA state. Not as many as east of the Mississippi, but still quite a few. You might also try signing up over on Steel Soldiers as there are a bunch of M-37 people there too.

I'm over on the wetside, which is close for shipping. A lot of trading goes on in the local area, so keep that in mind.

Good luck with your truck, and check out the local owners.

52 M-42

[messge80]

I do not have the manual but I will need one. I will check out the local oners

[hbb]

If you go to a reputable machine shop they can take care of any engine repairs/overhaul. These engines use common doge 230 parts internally and they can get anything that is needed. If you want to do all the work your self buy all the TM's available for you truck including G741 parts manual and do what most of the rest of us do, start pouring through all of the military mags, web sites, join the local Military vehicle club in you area and start net working. Military vehicle collectors are always willing to talk to someone with there interests.

Good Luck and have fun!


hb

[MSeriesRebuild]

Your best source for internal parts will be your engine machine shop's source, better pricing than the parts store. This will be more precisely built current production parts; NOS stuff may have a cheaper price tag, but just remember not to let a salesman shoot you a line; you WILL get what you pay for. A really good quality rebuild is not quite so straight forward as some have portrayed. A rebuild done right can be quite another story. Rod balancing, and balancing the rotating assembly will make for a smoother, more reliable, and long lasting engine, and doesn't add a lot to the toal cost. Don't go seeking a bargain basement price, someone will give it to you along with bargain basement workmanship, and disappointment likely sooner than later. It is also a good idea to rebuild all the engines accessory components 100% at the same time the internals are gone through.

[hbb]

Your best source for internal parts will be your engine machine shop's source, better pricing than the parts store. This will be more precisely built current production parts; NOS stuff may have a cheaper price tag, but just remember not to let a salesman shoot you a line; you WILL get what you pay for. A really good quality rebuild is not quite so straight forward as some have portrayed. A rebuild done right can be quite another story. Rod balancing, and balancing the rotating assembly will make for a smoother, more reliable, and long lasting engine, and doesn't add a lot to the total cost. Don't go seeking a bargain basement price, someone will give it to you along with bargain basement workmanship, and disappointment likely sooner than later. It is also a good idea to rebuild all the engines accessory components 100% at the same time the internals are gone through.

Exactly as Charles said!
I had convinced M37 jarhead to balance all of his rotating components and clearance all of the machined parts to the proper tolerances, he will be the first to tell you how smooth and nice his engine runs now.You end up with what you paid for when all is done and your broken down 75 miles from home in the dark and rain water rising. Skip a step and pay for it later.

hb

[m37jarhead]

Yep....HB is correct. I spent the time and the money trying to do it right the first time.
The balanced 251 c.i. engine purrs like a kitten.
It's sometimes tough to put out the money for extras like balancing, and all new internal parts.
Don't let some "expert" tell you: "Awww... that's good enough."

[messge80]

I am going to do it right the first time. I will have it balanced and I will rebuild all of it at the same time. What is the price range? I did stop at the local machine shop parts are available. The motor in the m37 is a 230 and the guy I baught it from was pushing snow in december 2011, up his driveway heard a noise, and it died and it is locked up. I pulled the plugs they were white has good oil and full of water The truck has 14800 miles on it. There is a militairy plate on the dash that says motor was rebuilt 1963 odometer read 11800. the man I baught it from had it for 14 years it plowed snow and small stuff around the house, he put 1900 miles on it in 14 years he told me and has a pile of receipts from a local shop. so there is about 4000 miles on the rebuilt motor.


thanks

[MSeriesRebuild]

I am going to do it right the first time. I will have it balanced and I will rebuild all of it at the same time. What is the price range? I did stop at the local machine shop parts are available. The motor in the m37 is a 230 and the guy I baught it from was pushing snow in december 2011, up his driveway heard a noise, and it died and it is locked up. I pulled the plugs they were white has good oil and full of water The truck has 14800 miles on it. There is a militairy plate on the dash that says motor was rebuilt 1963 odometer read 11800. the man I baught it from had it for 14 years it plowed snow and small stuff around the house, he put 1900 miles on it in 14 years he told me and has a pile of receipts from a local shop. so there is about 4000 miles on the rebuilt motor.


thanks

You and the gentleman you bought it from are interpreting this incorrectly.

In the day these trucks were pulled in for a depot level rebuild at no more than 12,000 miles. That plate on the dash indicates that happened to yours at 11,800 miles. A depot level rebuild means front to rear, top to bottom, everything rebuilt / replaced; including a complete blast, prime, and paint. It also includes a replacement speedometer. Knowing this would indicate it had 11,800 on it before the rebuild, and if the current odometer reading is indeed correct, it has had 14,800 miles put on it since the rebuild took place in 1963. If the owner before you put 1,900 miles on it, then it had 12,900 miles on the rebuilt engine when he acquired the truck. On a military time table of the day for tactical vehicles, that would have been 900 miles past time for the second depot level rebuild; which would not have taken place because it was time for the truck to be surplused and sold. Truth is; the owner before you never had the low mileage M37 that he assumed he did.

At today's prices, you can expect that nothing left unturned totally balanced rebuilt engine to cost in the $6,000 - $8,000 range which would include all rebuilt or new accessory components. Everything from the fan through the clutch would be reworked if we did it here. The fact that yours is locked up may indicate that the crankshaft or other major components could be ruined, all this would have to be inspected and assessed when the engine is disassembled. The rebuilt engine would be run in on our test stand with all final adjustments made and returned to you ready to bolt back on the frame. Just beware, if someone prices you a rebuild at a much cheaper price than this. You would need to ask detailed questions about every little issue to know exactly what you will or should be getting for your $$$.

[m37jarhead]

The $$ figure that Charles stated is probably correct for a stem to stern rebuild at a quality facility.
My rebuild $$ figures are around $2,000.00 +/- and do NOT include rebuild of any external components,
i.e. generator, carb., fuel pump, water pump, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, sparks plugs,
wires, misc part and pieces, etc., etc.

The 2 grand covered only machine shop work on the block, crank, cam, rods, pistons and the cost of
new bearings, rings, gasket kit, and other minor parts and pieces. Naturally, at this price, I did all
the brute labor myself. Stripping, degreasing, sand blasting, pressure washing, priming and painting
the block and head as well as ALL accessories. All on my time clock ticket. Naturally assembly
and installation was all done by me.
Let's not forget time, attention and $$ spent on the transmission, transfer case, U-joints, drive lines
radiator, tie rods, clutch/brake pedal shaft and bearings, wheel bearings, and front axle and steering
knuckles to mention a few.
Might as well pay some attention to these parts while the engine and transmission are out.
Throw in a new front wiring harness from Vintage Wiring too.

I'm happy with the result and proud that I took on this project never having rebuilt a Dodge flat head.
I'm a little smarter today with the help of many on this forum. So, the quality of your dreams is only
limited by time and money. I never seem to have enough of either.

Good luck with your project, ask all the questions you can, read all TM's and forum questions and
answers. You'll be fine.

[messge80]

Pulled the motor, cleaned it all up, pulled all the parts off of it, pulled the oil pan and crank out Found out it had a spun bearing on #6. Looking inside the engine it definitely has 14 odd-thousand miles on it. My machine shop that I took it to said to "see if you could find parts online for the motor". Went through Midwest, Old Mopar Parts.com and Vintage Power Wagon. Are there any other sources that anyone else knows about (other than ebay)?

Thanks,
George
'53 M37