Gas Tank Refurbing

[w30bob]

Hi Guys,

I found a usable gas tank for my M37 out in a boneyard in Colorado. The guy I'm dealing with said is was rust free but the yard punched a hole in the tank as standard operating procedure. It's on it's way to me now, unless UPS screws that up, so I want to start thinking about the best way to refurb. My inital thoughts are to tape up the hole temporarily and fill the tank with Purple Power to fully degrease the inside. Then dry it well and the put in a gallon or two of Evapo Rust for a few days, rotating the tank on it's sides to make sure the internal seams are really rust free. Air dry again and then weld up the hole and make sure it's leak free. After that I'm not sure which particular sealer to use on the inside? I know there are a ton of "gas tank sealers" on the market but I don't know which are junk and which actually work.

I know VIntage PW and others offer tank refurbishing, but that's aweful expensive for me.....even if they give a lifetime guarantee. So I need to do this a cheaper way. Any ideas would be appreciated.

thanks,
bob

[k8icu]

Have you done a web search? The reason I ask is that there are a lot of 'home remodies' out there and some of them look like they work really good. I have even seen where someone has cut the tank in half at the seam and sandblasted inside and out and welded back together. (I can weld, but I'm not that good..mine would leak on me.)

Also Gas Tank Renu (if there is one close to your location) might be a good option.

[WarrenD]

I got one from John at Midwest last fall. His was done by Gas Tank Renu, they have several locations. They offer the warranty and are probably the one you are talking about. Have you looked into local radiator repair shops? They often do gas tanks, too. Whatever process they use is likely going to last longer than what you can get as a consumer.

[Rich]

w30bob,
I used Renue on my M-37 gas tank in 2008. It has given me no problems.
It was 300 dollars total. It comes with a rubberized coating on the outside.
It works good but it does not have the original steel look.
Rich

[Brett]

Bob,

You don't have to put a sealer in your tank. If its clean, and doesn't leak you should be ok. If you weld in a repair, I would follow it up with solder to make sure its sealed up. Thats how they were built originaly, and thats how I did mine. Cant get much more low buck than that.

Brett

[Cal_Gary]

Most radiator shops also do tanks-you might consider that option.
Gary

[retiredguy]

I had mine cleaned at a rad shop. They dipped it for me. came out raw steel and I had to oil down the inside immediatly so the rust did not set in. then there still was granular debris inside I could not get out so I installed an inline fuel filter to protect my fuel system. that way I can replace the "primary" fuel filter often and not worry about plugging the fuel pump. It was a clear plastic one so I could see how much dirt was inside.

[vinnytruck]

OK are you ready for this one...Brand New tank soon testing 3 modifications close 2 holes , install a vent line to the intake manifold, install a fuel tube with a gas filter inside tank, attach 2 fuel hoses down to tank(1-fill hose,1air vent for fillhose. reweld straps (home depot 1' steel),1 grounding strap - thats it total $200.00 . we will see how it works out in the next couple of weeks. I think if you dont mine NOT ORGINAL, this is the way to go. The NEW gas tank will last 20years...at least VT and VT&1/2

[vinnytruck]

OK Heres the scoop... Tryed,tested,true. (4/20/12- NEW TANK PURCHASE: F15A by Spectra Premium Modifacations- install /drill for 1 vent line 3/16 use elbow brass fitting install /drill for 5/16 fuel line use brass fitting elbow, For in tank filter down the tube almost a "C" shape with filter (must fit to your pickup tube) hole on top install fuel sending unit thru, ( I used 1" stainless screws w/lock washers and nuts held them till they tighten then snuged them down, used gasket provided with sending unit and napa fuel dark gasket sealer. close large hole for old sending unit acceptance with brass plate and solder/+flux. install 2 fuel filler hoses to necks on tank. install 1 grounding strap drill a hole on tab of tank, bolt and nut, then bolt and nut to frame (use lock washers). (brass fittings and copper washers are soldered to tank dont forget the flux so the solder gets everywhere. straps made longer 1"" steel by home depot. covered in moving strap. THATS IT SURE SAVES A PENNY AND YOU GOT A NEW TANK TO BOOT. VT "we did it" next brakes and lines...

[Brett]

VT,
what, No pics?

Brett

[vinnytruck]

Brett, I have the pictures in the camera, I cant put them on the site...I will try to ask someone tomorrow. VT

[vinnytruck]

hi guys
here are the long awaited pictures of my truck and the work discussed about the gas tank

[vinnytruck]

two other pictures. if any one has any information about this truck, please let me know
this truck was also found in past threads last year

VT

[Cal_Gary]

That picture with the green tarp mirrors mine right now- green tarp and all, packed up with CCKW top, two spare tires, other parts and tools for the trip this week to our new home!
Gary

[NebM37]

Can't say as I am a expert by any means, but I have refurbished a few tanks in my day for restorations. Here is how I did the one on my M715 I used to have.

Removed tank, inspected for rust holes after a good pressure washing. I then took the tank to a radiator shop and had it boiled out clean. At home using a pressure washer flushed the tank until I felt it was clean (allowing it to run out the drain hole) I then put the plug back in and the sending unit and filled it with diesel fuel on some saw horses and watched it for two days for seepage. (This also puts a nice oily film on the tank walls until which time I was ready to fill it with gas latter in the project)

The above approach works if you have something to work with. If you have a thin tank or many holes I would think a more aggressive approach or a replacement tank would be in order.

To the original poster..since you already have a hole provided via the salvage yard I would think cleaning it out should be quite simple on a budget. Make a larger hole (you already have to weld it up anyway) and use a cleaning chemical such as you suggested. (I have used toilet bowl cleaner with great results) and get it nice and clean and weld/solder and you should be set.

Norm