Blown head gasket advice

[rc51racer]

I think the answer to my problem is the block needs to be resurfaced but I'll go ahead and tell what I did and didn't do and maybe somebody will have something else I can try.

I have a 230 that is exhibiting symptoms of a blown head gasket, the coolant showed a slight slick from combustion gases, the radiator overflow would blow out steam very quickly after starting up.

So I did the following:
1) Compression tested all cylinders they read 115 psi +/- 8 psi. (I did not do a leak down test.)
2) Checked the oil for signs of coolant contamination, there was none.
3) Removed the head and had it resurfaced, machine shop said it was warped and twisted.
4) Chased all of the threads.
5) Cleaned the top of the block with brake cleaner.
6) Installed a new Fel-Pro 7564C head gasket with a light coating of Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket.
7) Installed the head using new head bolts, threads coated with Permatex High Temp thread sealant.
Followed torque sequence and torque values outlined in the manual.

What I didn't do:
1) Didn't use a straight edge to check the top of the block for any dips.
2) Didn't pressure test the coolant system. (Not sure I need to given what I know now.)

Is it possible that I have a crack between the valves? (I know Charles has mentioned this as being a common issue.)

Is there an issue using the head gasket with the hump?

Is there anything else I should try before pulling the engine?

-Thanks in advance, Matt

[SOTVEN]

I WENT THROUGHT THE STEPS OF CHANGING THE HEAD GASKET RECENTLY. I HAD A RAPTURE BETWEEN #5 & 6, AND THE HEAD WAS A LITTLE WARPED THERE. I CHECKED THE BLOCK IF IT WAS WARPED ALSO, BUT IT SEEMED TO COMPLY TO THE STRAIGHT LEVEL I HAD. THE OLD GUY AT THE MACHINE SHOP THAT DID THE HEAD, RECOGNIZED THE KIND OF ENGINE RIGHT AWAY, AS HE HAD RESURFACED THEM MANY TIMES WHEN OUR ARMY HAD M37. I ASKED HIM ABOUT THE BLOCK BEING WARPED PERHAPS, AND HE SAID HE COULD NOT REMEMBER IF HE EVER HAD A SUCH BLOCK IN NEED TO BE REPAIRED. "IT SEEMED" HE SAID "THAT THE HEAD WAS MADE TO WARP FIRST AND PROTECT THE BLOCK THIS WAY." SO, IN YOUR CASE, I WOULD THINK THAT IT IS HARD YOUR PROBLEM TO BE A WARPED BLOCK. FROM WHAT YOU DESCRIBE, THERE IS NO OIL CONTAMINATION, SO NO COOLANT MEETS THE OIL. APPARENTLY, YOUR NOTION IS THAT COMBUSTION GASES FIND THEIR WAY INTO THE COOLANT. IF SO, THEN COOLANT ALSO FINDS ITS WAY INTO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER. (THAT IS WHAT HAPPENED TO MINE) IN THIS CASE, A SOMEWHAT DISTINCT SMELL OF BURNED GLUCOSE COMES OUT OF THE EXHAUST WHEN THE ENGINE RUNS, ALONG WITH SOME STEAM. DO YOU HAVE THESE SYMPTOMS? IF NOT, COULD IT BE SOMETHING ELSE IN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM THAT TRIGGERS YOUR PROBLEM? A CLOGED RADIATOR PERHAPS? I WOULD SUSPECT THAT A CRACKED BLOCK IN THE VALVE AREA WOULD PRODUCE ENOUGH LEAK AND CROSS CONTAMINATION OF FLUIDS. ALSO, THE PURPOSE OF THE HEAD GASKET IS MAINLY TO MAKE TO SURFACES MATE PROPERLY AND REMAIN MATED AFTER HEAT CHANGES AND COMBUSTION ATTACKS, SO I WOULD THINK THAT UNLESS YOUR BLOCK IS TRASHED, THEN YOUR GASCKET IS PERFORMING WELL AFTER HOW YOU INSTALLED IT. GOOD LUCK FRIEND

[T. Highway]

I've never had good luck with Fel-Pro or Victor R head gaskets on a flathead, they never seemed to last.

Here is what I use now http://bestgasket.com/pop_up_picture.as ... umber=523C, I did shave the head .090" so that I didn't screw up the compression ratio. These are copper gaskets with a graphite core that seals up perfectly. I would recommend double checking valve clearance prior to shaving the head because there is no way to tell what has been done in the past.

Bert

[MSeriesRebuild]

If there is a crack; you will see evidence of oil in the coolant or vise versa. If you see the oil level growing, you know there is a problem. You can check the block deck with a known perfectly straight edge and a feeler gauge, however if your compression reading numbers are correct, they don't indicate any immediate issues.

We have never had any issue what so ever using Victor or Fel-Pro head gaskets. Best gasket offers a good product for some things, while others I wouldn't use under any circumstances. They have even called us on occassion wanting to know if certain of their products would work in given situations. Truth is some are great while some are not. They are just like all the rest, you can't buy 1 brand of anything and get the best of everything. I know of no gasket manufacturer who has the best product for a complete job. Victor doesn't even offer a head gasket these days for the flat head; yes you can buy a head gasket in a Victor package, but when you look closely, you'll see Fel-Pro stamped on it. Fel-Pro offers the best overhaul gasket set out there for the money it cost. Best also offers a complete set; however the Best cost more and the reason why is they include some parts like a timing cover oil seal that Fel-Pro does not include in their set. You might ask why is more included in the set not a good thing, here's why; the timing cover seal they include is a piece of junk. Some import brand nobody ever heard of, and it requires the use of an oil slinger or it will leak, that's a given. Buy the set without junk parts included for less money and get a good National oil seal that doesn't require the use of an oil slinger and does not leak. You will also have a cheaper investment buying a good seal separately than you will in buying a set that has a seal that doesn't do the job anyway.

[SOTVEN]

IS THERE A CHANCE YOUR RADIATOR CAP HAS GONE BAD, HENCE LETS OFF STEAM TOO SOON? JUST A THOUGHT