Fuel Pump Replacement

[WarrenD]

I'm getting ready to replace the fuel pump on my 53. I have a freshly rebuilt pump (done by Then and Now) and have been looking over the swap. I'm wondering about a couple of points from those who have done this before. First, should I disconnect the fuel line at the tank? Looks like the pump is lower than the tank and I don't want gas siphoning out. Which is the better way to attack this, from the bottom or the top? (Please don't suggest I take the front fender off!) Anything I may be overlooking? Last fuel pump I did was on my 72 Chevy, can't beat a small block Chevy V8 for ease or simplicity. BTW, that was over 30 years ago.

[powerwagontim]

Hi Warren,
There is supposed to be a fuel shutoff just upstream of the pump, where the flex line connects to the steel line. I wouldnt bother with disconnecting at the tank, have a golf tee handy and plug the line if its spouting.
The correct bolts are long, with a shoulder about half way down. This makes them much easier to access because it puts the head out next to the side of the pump rather than in by the block. With some contortions you can do it from the top. If the splash shields are in place , its the only way to get at it without removing sheetmetal. Also, compare the orientation of the fittings, and make sure they are clocked in the right location as the pump you are removing, rather than discovering it after it is attached to the block.
Good luck,
Tim

[WarrenD]

Thanks Tim, I'll look for that shut off. I've already verified that the fittings are all in the same locations between the 2 pumps. The rebuild came in Friday night and about 5 am Sat morning, I was in bed worrying that something didn't look right. Got dressed and got under the truck and my feeling was wrong, thankfully. I'm trying to do all my homework ahead of time. The pump that is in there is less than a year old, but leaking oil externally and now internally into the vacuum lines. I'm hoping that the mounting bolts will come out easily, they should as they were just out less than a year ago.
I have pretty good access from below, I'm looking into taking the right front tire off which might help some. I've got long arms, but I ain't built like a monkey!

[MSeriesRebuild]

It's typical to find oil leaking past the vacuum chamber pull rod seal. Then-Now workmanship is rather sloppy in that area as it is very easy to damage the seal when the retainer or the pull rod is installed. Apparently they just are not careful in doing this. Then-Now offers excellent quality build kits, my recommendation is to get the kit and either build the pump yourself or have it rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder.

[WarrenD]

Thanks Charles, I guess I'll have to wait and see as it's already done and in my hands. It does have a 1 year warranty, hopefully, I won't need it.

[Jared]

You might try clamping the soft fuel line with vise grips before disconnecting?

[WarrenD]

I've done that in the past with civie vehicles, but to get it to work completely you have to clamp the heck out of it. In these days of ethanol, I really don't want to crush the rubber hose if I can avoid it. Thanks for the idea.

[m37jarhead]

For you guys working inside during the winter.
Needless to say but a good reminder when working inside in the winter. If you have a natural gas or propane gas hot water heater or furnace the pilot light is your enemy. Gasoline fumes hug the ground in still air inside your shop or garage. As the fumes migrate to the pilot light the danger increases. Electric heaters are also not the answer. Any open flame or spark can create a disaster. Be careful.

[snowdad]

As a firefighter I can say that is an excellent post Jarhead! People never remember about gasoline vapors.
Phillip

[WarrenD]

Point taken.