Rear leaf spring bracket removal

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christq
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 1:23 pm

Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by christq »

Hello forum,
I am in the middle of a complete frame off restoration of my 1952 M37, rather my companies m37 that I talked myself (owner) into buying. I have posted some pics in the gallery of work completed up last week, but now the truck is just in parts that i am blasting while the bolts are setting in evapo-rust. That said: I have no want to have any rust hidden anywhere on this truck so with my faithful ridgid drill, I have pretty much removed everything on the frame, front leaf spring brackets, bed mount brackets, transfer-case cross members, (the rear Tcase crossmember to frame brackets were welded... very poorly, just curious if that was factory welds) the only thing I have not drilled out are the bottom rivets for the welded two main cross members, rear bumper, and the rear leaf spring brackets, I really want to get the rear brackets off but have yet to find a suitable replacement due to the height of the caps and clearance from the shackles, I was thinking possibly the following grade 5 bolt for replacement of the rivets but the cap is still 21/64, which would require a small altercation to allow for proper clearance.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 676&ucst=t
I can remove the four quarter sized head rivets in about 5 minutes if I had a replacement, but I am leaving it to the consensus here. Also, I should mention that I am a certified welder and machinist, and electronic systems technician/engineer, and right now this truck is my current girlfriend :) the last was too expensive on the upkeep and this is much more fun


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HingsingM37
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Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by HingsingM37 »

Welcome aboard. Not sure I follow, you do not want to use rivets to re-attach, or have not found replacements? Try hanson:
http://www.hansonrivet.com

Enjoy your restoration endeavor :)
David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078

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hbb
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Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by hbb »

Welcome to the site.

I understand the goal of absolutely no rust whats so ever,but replacing the factory pressed rivet fit and strength will be very tough to duplicate. By the looks of your frame from the pictures posted I don't think there would ever be a rust concern in that area. The type of restoration that you are planing will preserve it for a very long time. Heck look how long it has already gone and no problem.
All of that being said you could take a grade eight bolt and mill the head for clearance and that would work.Let us know what you decide to do and post pictures of you progress.

hb
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cuz
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Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by cuz »

The grade 8 bolt's design in tension application includes the thickness of the head. Shortening the head will reduce the tension rating of the bolt.

Those rivets are readily available. When shot red hot they will close up any slop in fit caused by the removal.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net

54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
hbb
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Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by hbb »

Cuz your absolutely correct that is the right way to do it, except for the A & P's like yourself and Iron workers there are very few that have ever shot a rivet of any kind. Myself I also have shot uncounted alloy rivets but never a hot rivet, but I would like to try it some time. :oops:

hb
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cuz
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Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by cuz »

Shooting these frame steel rivets hot allows using a smaller rivet gun IE 5X and an appropriate bucking bar. If a guy has access to 8X and larger guns or the huge hydraulic squeezers used on the production line then you could shoot or squeeze them cold.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net

54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
hbb
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Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by hbb »

Wes
After you shoot the hot rivets do you then quench them to bring temper back in or just let them cool? or is there any need for that?

hb
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cuz
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Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by cuz »

You certainly can if you wish.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net

54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
christq
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 1:23 pm

Re: Rear leaf spring bracket removal

Post by christq »

I think I am going to check one of my clients, arrow trailer sales and repair, and see what they have for rivets and guns, I am about 50% sure they have huck gun as i remember, if not, I spent the day with my gravity feed, and went around the are in question, lots of hidden/painted over surface rust, but the frame is about 90% stripped, with only 200 lbs of black diamond on the shop floor, tomorrow will be a good hangover day to vacuum it all up and strain it back out, then i can flip the frame back over so i can finish up the prep, with any luck i should be able to start stripping the cab and planning the new wiring routes, which will be pretty much just be pvc jacketed trailer wire by the end of the week, Thanks for your comments, I'll post my pictures in the gallery of the weekends progress.
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