Building a retro M37

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Rich
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by Rich »

Keep up the good work. It is looking good!
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retiredguy
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Re: Building a retro M37

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So there is some more progress. All the switches have arrived and all the mounting holes for them are done. I've stipped the trck down to the neccesities and built a new crossmember. The the frame went off to the sandblaster. Here it is back and I hit it with the Por15. Por15 is good stuff but hard to get off your skin!

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I didn't like the shape of the old one.

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Now off to reseal and detail the cummins.
Last edited by retiredguy on Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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T. Highway
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by T. Highway »

The frame is looking good, not much arch to those front springs.
1952 M37 W/W Rebuild @ 59% complete
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retiredguy
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Re: Building a retro M37

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You are right, not much arc. I have always known that a leaf that sits flat when loaded will give you the best ride. Unless you go with an aftermarket spring that has less leafs but more arc. I did one earlier, that I put Hi-Jacker suspension in. It had more arc to give me the lift but had less leafs and it rode great. I want to lower this truck as much as possible, because as you see in my previous post, the truck is still plenty high. That is as low as I can go. Cab on it measures 7 ft 4 inches high. my garage has a 7 ft door so I will have to put smaller tires on to get it out.
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by mkoloc »

You Sir, are a Fabrication Genius!! So enjoy reading and viewing your progress .. You make it look easy, but I can only imagine the amount of time and effort you are putting into each segment of your build. Thank You for sharing!
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retiredguy
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Re: Building a retro M37

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the cummins is done! now on to the diffs. Interesting find on this part. The color underneath the Dodge black was cummins biege! This is the color now. The tranny and transfer case will be same color. Diffs will be Por15 base with clear or gloss black on top. The dirty alternator is not staying on. I put it on the mock up the belt.

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Last edited by retiredguy on Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Building a retro M37

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retiredguy wrote:I want to lower this truck as much as possible, because as you see in my previous post, the truck is still plenty high. That is as low as I can go. Cab on it measures 7 ft 4 inches high. my garage has a 7 ft door so I will have to put smaller tires on to get it out.
Can't you drop the windshield on the finished truck & remove canvas top frame in order to get truck out the garage door with the larger tires installed?

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retiredguy
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Re: Building a retro M37

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only have hard top. Just as much work takiing the hard top off as it is rolling it out on small tires and swap outside. After a few thousand hours work what is another 10 minutes to swap tires. After it is done I'll park it in my other garage that has an 8 ft door.
Last edited by retiredguy on Fri Dec 16, 2011 5:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Josh
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by Josh »

Looks nice, cleaning and painting engines is not one of my favorite things to do. Always seems to get transfered from the engine onto me. :roll: :lol:
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by k8icu »

Josh wrote:Looks nice, cleaning and painting engines is not one of my favorite things to do. Always seems to get transfered from the engine onto me. :roll: :lol:
Well then you must be doing it correctly... :) My wife is artistic and she does all the detail work at our leather shop and she always ends up with as much on her as on the work. Therefore by my wifes standard your not doing it right unless you get some on yourself. :lol:
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by SOTVEN »

WOW! YOU HAVE GONE LONG WAYS SINCE LAST TIME I SAW YOUR WORK FRIEND!! LOOKING NICE. KEEP IT UP :)
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retiredguy
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Re: Building a retro M37

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Diffs are finished. the front one was clean and in good condition inside but the steering knuckles out were poor. replaced "king pins", spindle bearings, wheel bearings and seals, pads and calipers, all the hoses and metal lines. The rear diff was run empty and showed signs of metal. So I replaced the C/P and all the bearings. Just have to finish the rear brakes, all new parts again, then on to the fuel lines. Pulled the fuel tank apart and UUGGHH. Black sticky crap everywhere! This is what 40 year old gas looks like?

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This tank needs a major cleaning. Then to replace the plate for the fuel tubes and install an aftermarket fuel sender. Napa makes a nice one that is adustable to your tank size and the ohms match the Autometer gage I want to use.
Last edited by retiredguy on Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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m-37Bruce
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by m-37Bruce »

Tell me/us more about your aftermarket fuel sender and your Autometer gauge? Great progress !
Bruce,

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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by retiredguy »

here is the link to the Autometer sending unit.
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessorie ... spx?vid=71

The next link is to the Autometer programable fuel gage. read the PDF installation file and it explains the calibration proceedure. They should work well together as they are in the ohm spec range.

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetai ... 699&sid=60

This will work with many different senders too.

The Napa one is similar and retails for about 47.00.

This temp gage interests me too. I think this one is for me.

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetai ... 872&sid=60

I like the fact it can turn on cooling fans.

Same goes for the tranny gage!!
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Re: Building a retro M37

Post by Josh »

Shes looking good. I didnt know the 80's trucks still had kingpin 60's, I thought Dodge had gone to those miserable ball joints by then.
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